Q&A for How to Reupholster a Couch

You can remove the fabric and wrap the foam with polyester quilting batting from a sewing store. It comes in rolls and in differing thicknesses, but the thicker it is, the larger it will make the cushion, with a tighter fit back into the fabric cover.

No, if you are able to measure and sew new covers without removing the old, you can cover right over the old if you want to. I've done it, but I recommend making sure that your outer fabric is thick enough so that the fabric below doesn't show through.

Buttons are attached using a long, thick needle that can penetrate through the entire piece (particularly finished cushions comprised of fabric and foam). You can also just attach it firmly to the outside fabric using a normal method. The method whereby you go right through the foam makes a nice indent and ensures the button doesn't get caught on things.

Canvas is easier to sew and work with, as it doesn't stretch or bunch up as easily.

Then you need to detach them, see how they were held on, and repeat that attachment design to the new upholstered cushions. If they cannot be detached, you may need to remove them by cutting, then work out how to replicate this firm attachment. Since you're reupholstering, you're fairly free to make changes to this arrangement in a way that works better for you, and remember that Velcro tabs are always a great way to fix things.

Once you take the old fabric off, take the templates into a fabric shop and they will work it out for you.

Open them along a seam and re-stuff them. Hand sew the opening closed. I no longer liked my pillow-backed cushions that were filled with fluff, so I bought Styrofoam and batting, and made two new back cushions for the sofa when I reupholstered it.

I go through about 5-7 spools for 175 yds. Though, for the back cushions, I might use 2 rolls for 250 yards. Always get at least 5 spools.

Yes, just like cloth upholstery. It's thicker and harder to sew, and also needs to be pulled tighter when fastened as it stretches after use.

There are several charts online that show drawings of different styles of furniture and the amount of yardage required for each. Some sites that sell home décor fabric will have these same charts available. Keep in mind details, such as skirts (tailored or gathered) that would need more.

First you have to find the bias, which is diagonal to the weave. An easy way to do this is to lay the fabric out flat, then fold one of the selvage edges over diagonally to match up with the cut side. It may not match exactly, because the fabric cut is probably not completely straight. A bit of variance won't matter, but if it is too far off, square up your fabric first. The folded edge is the bias. Iron a crease there, being careful not to stretch the fabric. Open the fabric back out, and cut pieces about 2 1/2" wide on that angle. Pin 2 strips at right angles to each other, sew together, then add each piece the same way. When complete, open the seam allowance and iron flat to reduce bulk.

You can purchase it as fabric stores such as Joann, or online. There are many options on the internet. If you go into a fabric store, ask a store associate for assistance. In the store, you can feel the fabric and see the true color.

Years ago they may have used just feathers, but you would need a ton of them. You could use the foam, then feathers, then wrap in the quilting batting. That way the feathers will not find their way through the fabric.

Always wash material prior to any project. The material has to allow for a seam allowance.