Q&A for How to Value Your Pokémon Cards

If the back of the card's color is light, if the card is more flexible than normal, if the attacks are outrageous, and if the packs the cards come in are sealed with regular glue, instead of the kind of sealing the Pokemon company uses, then it's likely that the cards are fakes.

If the star is at the bottom of the card, this means that it is an ultra-rare card. If the star is located beside attacks, it's just the colourless attack cost symbol.

That is the set that the card is from. For example, if you see a fist, then that card is from the furious fists set.

That mean that the card was part of the Team Rocket expansion. They are indicated by the Team Rocket signature R.

You've got yourself quite a collection there. It cannot be appraised without seeing if any cards are foil, reverse holo, etc., so your best bet is to google the price of each individual card (grueling, but worth it) for a total sum, then slightly raise that total price for the lot, since it is a complete set.

One website that can help with pricing Pokemon cards is Collectors' Cache. It is a fantastic website that sells Pokemon cards from almost every generation and year, and it can help you determine prices based on the card's rarity, year, and condition.

It either is a very early copy, or potentially a misprint. Check into a card pricing site, search for that card and the rarity should be listed there.

If it's shiny in the picture box, as explained in the part at the top of this article.

If it says promo, then it's a promo card. But if it's all white or silver, then it is ultra rare.

Pokemonprices.com has the 161/160 card in the Primal Clash Set (Secret Rare Dive Ball) as ranging from $17-22.50 dollars, with a $19 average.

It means that the card is number 4 of an expansion pack that, not including secret rares, had a total of 102 different cards. It is commonly associated with the incredibly rare Charizard Foil of the base set of Pokemon Cards.

Yes and no. Promo cards can be found with certain products. For example, if I bought the mewtwo ex tin, in the front would be a promo mewtwo ex which can't be found anywhere else. Promo cards can't be found in regular packs.

Stage one means that it might evolve from one of your other Pokemon. You can put a "stage 1" card above a "basic" card and it means that your Pokemon is now evolved. For example: Pidgey is basic, so it has not evolved. On the other hand, Quilava has stage one because it has evolved.

It's a special card that is promotional, and you can't find it in the regular booster packs for that set. That is potentially valuable.

It is the pack. For example, a coral-like symbol means it came from a flashfire pack and a fist means it is from furious fists.

It means that your card is an ultra rare. The same symbol can be found on such cards as Victini 98/101 of the Noble Victories set. Your particular card (in case you're wondering) is valued at about US$2.25 if it's near mint or mint.

It depends on whatever TCG expansion it was. You can look it up using websites designed for this purpose.

If it's a Nidoran, it's just to indicate that it's the male Nidoran. There is a male Nidoran and a female Nidoran, which are different (but related) Pokemon.

In the actual game they are the cards that can let you do special things, like draw cards or heal Pokemon. Nobody really cares about them otherwise, unless it's a world championship card.

The male symbol is the one with the arrow sticking up to the right. If you're still confused, do a Google image search for "male symbol" and look at the pictures.

The reverses backgrounds are shiny, usually with a design, but have the normal set number at the bottom (82/86). They won't have this instead: RC13/RC25. RC = Radiant Collection.

It means that it is a ex card, which is typically more valuable than other modern cards. If it has an M in front of the card name followed by ex, that means it is a mega, which is worth quite a bit more.

If it's EX or BREAK, it might be worth $5+, but if it's not, then probably not worth more than $1.50.

The card is an ex or a Mega, excluding the black star promos, which you can see in the front of Pokemon EX tins.

I would suggest going onto a website called Mavin put in your card name and the collector number and it should show a few cards then you can see roughly how much it is worth. Example: My Keldeo V 053/202 is worth about $3.

It's a PSA 7. The card sold for $375,000 during a PWCC auction. Incredibly, the rare Japanese collectible shattered its previous record only a year later on February 24, 2022, when it sold for $900,000.

In the context of Pokémon cards, I am not aware of any official use of the terms RC8 or RC32. It is possible that these terms are being used by collectors or sellers to refer to specific versions or releases of certain Pokémon cards, but without more context it is difficult to say for sure. In general, when referring to Pokémon cards, collectors and sellers may use a variety of terms to indicate the rarity or condition of the card, such as: First edition: Refers to the initial print run of a card, which may be more valuable than later print runs. Holofoil: Refers to cards with a holographic or foil effect, which are generally more valuable than non-foil versions.

If you have a Pokémon card with lower right numbers that do not match any others, it is possible that you have a misprint or error card. Misprints and error cards occur when there is a mistake during the printing process, which can make the card unique or more valuable to collectors. To determine the value of your card, you should first try to identify the card's name, set, and rarity. Once you have this information, you can search online marketplaces and forums to see if there are any similar misprint or error cards that have been sold or discussed. This can give you an idea of how rare or valuable your card may be. It's important to note that not all misprint or error cards are valuable.