How to Recaulk Kitchen Counter Where It Meets the Backsplash

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If the caulk where your kitchen counter and backsplash meet has worn away over time, it may be time to recaulk the area. Fortunately, this is a simple project you can do yourself. To help you out, we'll walk you through everything you need to do to recaulk your kitchen counter, from removing the old caulk to using a caulking gun to apply more.

Part 1
Part 1 of 2:

Preparing Your Kitchen Counter

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  1. [1] Remove as much as possible by pulling loose ends by hand. Remove remaining caulk with a narrow blade putty knife/scraper. [2] A plastic putty knife/scraper will minimize scratching of finished surfaces . Only apply as much pressure as needed to remove the caulk without damaging the surface.
  2. [3] Use a cleaning agent that can cut through soap, yet not damage the surface finish. Try using a small amount of thinner or other cleaners that dry with little or no residue in an inconspicuous place to test for possible damage to the finish . If no damage results use only as much as needed to remove dirt, etc.
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  3. Laminates are sheets of material that are bonded to a base - in the case of countertops and backsplashes this is wood or some type of particle or fiberboard. If water has been allowed to seep under the laminate for longer than a brief time, there is a good chance that the laminate is no longer bonded to the wood base underneath. Look for up or down-turned edges and feel for bubbles or air pockets under the laminate. Slightly lift the laminate away from the wood beneath. Do not pry. Lift it only far enough to allow circulation of air. Do not extend the de-lamination by lifting too high as this can risk breaking any existing bond and even the laminate itself . Vacuum as best you can to remove any debris caught between the laminate and the wood.
  4. This is a very important step, and the more time allowed to dry, the better the repair will be . If this area is near a sink, it would be best to not use the sink if possible. Shutting off the water can help prevent accidental usage in extreme cases.
  5. [4] After being allowed to completely dry (overnight is minimum, but 24 - 48 hours is better), check for signs of dampness. A paper towel pressed into the areas and inspected after being removed should prove if water had been kept away during the drying time. If still damp, allow additional drying time or add a fan to speed drying; otherwise apply contact cement as per instructions on the container. It will be impossible to get the contact cement all the way to the point where a factory bond exists. For this reason, apply the cement as far as practical and add extra at the furthest point you can reach. When ready to join, start from the edges and work to the center so that the extra cement will be forced further still to the factory bonded point. Work back towards the edges. Inspect for bubbles or air pockets under the laminate. When satisfied, apply even pressure to the laminate against the wood backing with weights, wedges, etc. overnight.
  6. , and clean any contact cement that may have leeched out from between the laminate and backing by hand or with the plastic putty knife/scraper.
  7. When two surfaces join at an angle such as a backsplash and counter, allow for about 1 ⁄ 4 inch (0.6 cm) or less width of the caulking area on either side of the seam, how much is a personal preference. Painters' tape, masking tape, or any tape that doesn't leave residue will work fine. Apply the tape evenly so that the desired amount of exposure of both horizontal and vertical surfaces from the seam is visible. [5]
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Part 2
Part 2 of 2:

Applying Caulk

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  1. Cut the tip of the caulking tube (at any angle that works best for you as determined by your "practice runs") to make an opening about equal to the mask width. [6] Pierce the seal of the tube by inserting a nail or other thin object into the tip until the seal is punctured. While relieving the "catch" mechanism (locking a tab around the rod at the handle end of the caulking gun or providing a 1/4 turn of the rod or whichever way your gun operates) pull the rod as far out of the gun as it will travel. Load the caulk tube into the caulking gun by inserting the bottom end into the handle end of the gun. Press the nozzle end into the other end of the gun. Squeeze the trigger repeatedly until pressure is felt at the trigger. Slowly squeeze the trigger while watching for the caulk to become visible at the end of the nozzle. Stop squeezing as soon as it appears. Have a paper towel or rag ready for any excess caulk that will continue to slowly ooze out. Instantly stopping this slow oozing can be accomplished by relieving the pressure on the rod by the gun - releasing the "catch" of the rod as described above.
  2. Run a bead of caulk directly over the seam. By providing steady pressure to the caulk gun trigger and moving along the seam at a steady speed at the same time, acceptable results should be obtained. Work on areas no greater than 3 to 4 feet (0.9 to 1.2 m) at a time. "Tool" The bead with the wedge tool included with some brands of caulk, a popsicle stick, or vinyl gloved finger will also work. A bare finger, however, wet with saliva seems to work best and is the way it is done most often in the field. Tooling is done for two reasons: it forces the bead into the seam void and it provides a smooth bead surface that makes cleaning easier. Starting at one end, press the tool or finger into the bead and wipe evenly towards the opposite end. Wipe built-up excess caulk from your finger or tool as needed with paper towels or rags, and re-wet your finger before repeating. When "tooling" the caulk, work the edge of the caulk near the tape edges nearest to the seam to be as thin as possible , leaving the bulk of the caulk directly over the seam. Tool the caulk until satisfied with its appearance. Repeat for each additional 3–4 foot (0.9–1.2 m) lengths until complete. Do not work too large an area or waste too much time as after the caulk begins to "skin over" tooling will be difficult and result in wrinkling the surface.
  3. Apply a thin bead directly over the seams and press firmly in as you wipe into the seam with a wet finger. Do this several times to ensure caulk has permeated the space between sections to prevent water from entering. Wipe away any excess caulk on the surface of the laminate with a damp paper towel or rag.
  4. Check the caulk on the surface of the tape to ensure it is no longer wet. Caulk on the surface of the tape should be of minimal thickness - practically transparent at the edge tape's edge. Carefully and slowly lift the tape from the laminate. It should come up in one piece and there should be no wet caulk bridging the gap between the tape and the laminate as it is lifted away. If there is, allow more drying time before reattempting. The thinner the caulk is at the tape's edge, the better the results will be.
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      Tips

      • Consider using the small (6-ounce or so) tube of caulk for small jobs. The large tubes should be used at once, as they seldom last very long after the initial opening even when recapped. The small tube has the advantage of the ability to get into tight places that the larger caulking gun can not reach.
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      • Many caulks are available in colors. Don't settle for white or clear unless it is what you want. The "big box" stores usually have the best selections.
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      • While 100% silicone caulk is extremely durable, there are other types with different formulations. Each type has its own list of pros and cons.
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      Things You'll Need

      • Time. The prep time (cleaning and dry time specifically) are often significantly greater than the actual repair time. Don't rush through these steps.
      • High-quality caulk. The use of 100 % silicone caulk generally stands up best, however, it may not stick to some materials. Test adhesion qualities if unsure. Also, different manufacturers state the application on each tube, if unable to determine - ask the store clerk for recommendations. Caulk is available in larger tubes that require an inexpensive "gun" that forces the product out and small tubes that rely on hand pressure to squeeze the product out. The hand-held tubes are perfect for small jobs - and getting into tight spaces (between sink and backsplash).
      • Caulking gun. If using small hand-held tubes of caulk, the gun will not be needed.
      • Putty knife/scraper (plastic is highly recommended). Purchase a knife/scraper narrow enough to fit in areas with little clearance (between backsplash and sink). Plastic tools are desirable because they are less likely to damage finished surfaces and they can be "custom" trimmed easily to fit in tight areas.
      • Paper towels/rags for clean up.
      • Cleaning agent. Preferably something that has little water content or dries with little or no residue. A low soap and water solution can be used if adequate drying time is provided.
      • Contact cement.

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      References

      1. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0JblJTRQFMw
      2. ↑ Emily Fazio. Home Improvement & DIY Specialist. Expert Interview. 27 July 2021.
      3. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wjd2jC0Lupk
      4. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r27oBVmLTN4
      5. ↑ Emily Fazio. Home Improvement & DIY Specialist. Expert Interview. 27 July 2021.
      6. ↑ Emily Fazio. Home Improvement & DIY Specialist. Expert Interview. 27 July 2021.

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