How to Sew a Hem by Hand or with a Machine

Being able to sew a hem is an incredibly useful skill that can help you with everything from adjusting the length of your pants to making custom curtains for your living room. Hemming gives fabric a finished, clean edge and helps clothes last longer by preventing unraveling. There are several ways to sew a hem depending on what you want the finished look to be, but the double-fold hem and blind stitch hem are most common. With advice from experts in tailoring and alterations, we’ll tell you how to sew these hems, plus single-fold and rolled hems .

Sewing a Hem: The Basics

Measure and mark your hem length with chalk or a fabric marker. Fold the raw edge of the fabric up to the mark and press it. Stitch along the top of the hem to hold it in place. Clip any dangling threads and press the hem again to give it a professional finish.

Method 1

Method 1 of 4:

Sewing a Double-Fold Hem

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1
Measure, fold, and press your desired hem. To sew a double-fold hem (also called a turned hem ), lay out your clothing or fabric on a countertop, inside out or pattern-side down, with the hem/edge in front of you. Fold the fabric edge up ⅝-inch (15 mm), and use an iron to flatten it out and sharpen the fold. Starting from the folded edge, create a second ⅝-inch (15 mm) fold over the first, so the raw edge of the first fold is hidden under the second. ^{[1]
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- Mark your measurements with a fabric chalk or marker for sewing . The marks are easy for you to see while working, but come right out in the wash.
- If you're hemming a pair of pants that are tapered, be sure to account for that—you'll need to taper the inside piece outward so the pants don't pucker, advises professional tailor David Pew. ^{[2]
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  Expert Source
  
  David Pew
  Professional Tailor
  
  Expert Interview. 5 January 2021.}
- If you use a sewing machine , select a straight stitch when sewing a double-fold hem.
Stick the points of the sewing pins into the fabric so that the blunt end (often with a pearl) sticks out from the hem. If you’re using a sewing machine, this makes them much easier to remove as you sew. ^{[3]
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3
Sew a seam with a straight stitch along the top edge of the fold. Thread your needle when sewing by hand or your sewing machine’s needle . Stitch along the folded edge until you’ve sewn the whole hem. Then tie off and cut your thread. ^{[4]
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- Pew adds that it’s important to keep the stitches loose on the hem. If they're tight, they'll make the bottom of the pants look puckered. ^{[5]
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  Expert Source
  
  David Pew
  Professional Tailor
  
  Expert Interview. 5 January 2021.}
- When hand-sewing, use a back stitch or other strong straight stitch to secure the hem.
- When using a sewing machine, you can also use a twin needle to sew 2 parallel seams to make a more secure hem.
4
Press the hem to make it lie flat. To finish off your hem, iron it to make your hem lie flat. If your fabric can handle it, use your iron’s steam setting to help get the fabric completely flat. When you’re done ironing, turn your fabric right-side-out, and give yourself a pat on the back for sewing your own hem! ^{[6]
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- “Hemming isn’t simple, so give yourself some time!” advises Kofi-Bruce. ^{[7]
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  Expert Source
  
  Kpoene Kofi-Bruce
  Couture Bridal Designer
  
  Expert Interview. 28 January 2021.}
Sarah Veblen, Expert Sewist

A well-sewn hem can make all the difference in the appearance of a garment. Whether you're hemming a pair of pants, a skirt, or a dress, the basic steps are the same. First, measure the desired hem length and mark it with a chalk or fabric marker. Then, fold the fabric up to the mark and press it flat. Next, stitch the hem in place using a straight stitch or a zigzag stitch . Finally, press the hem again to give it a professional finish.

Method 2

Method 2 of 4:

Sewing a Blind Hem

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1
Measure, fold, and pin the raw edge of the fabric. To sew a blind hem (sometimes called an invisible hem ), place your fabric on a countertop with the pattern side down. Determine your seam allowance or the width of the fold you make. Fold the fabric up from the edge, and then fold it again to hide the raw edge. Use an iron to flatten your folds. ^{[8]
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- “Double check with a ruler or measuring tape and the end to ensure it is even,” recommends professional tailor Kpoene Kofi-Bruce. ^{[9]
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  Expert Source
  
  Kpoene Kofi-Bruce
  Couture Bridal Designer
  
  Expert Interview. 28 January 2021.}
- Insert the pins so that the blunt/pearl end is on the fabric portion, while the needle/tip is sticking out towards the edge of the hem to hold the fabric in place.
- When using a sewing machine, fold your ironed section under the fabric. Take the portion of fabric that you just folded/ironed, and fold it in the opposite direction so that it’s hidden under the fabric with about ⅛ inch (3 mm) exposed.
- Your fabric is now pattern-side down, with a ⅛-inch (3 mm) exposed fold at the edge.
2
Hand-sew the hem or use a blind hem stitch on your sewing machine. If you're sewing by hand , use a blind stitch , and just catch one thread from the outside fabric each time you make a stitch, suggests Pew. ^{[10]
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Expert Source

David Pew
Professional Tailor

Expert Interview. 5 January 2021.} Make stitches about ¼ inch (5mm) apart along the fold. Continue sewing until you reach the end of your hem.
- To sew a blind hem on a sewing machine, your machine needs a blind hem stitch setting (^----^----^) and a blind hem foot . ^{[11]
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- Start by turning your fabric sideways on the sewing machine, so that the ⅛-inch fold is on the right side, and the rest of the fabric is on the left.
- Sew along the edge where the fold and fabric meet, keeping the edge of the fabric plumb to the divider on your presser foot, to the end of your fabric.
- You can also make an invisible hem with iron-on hemming tape . Master tailor Mia Danilowicz says, “That's technically not the proper way of doing it.” She adds that you can use double-sided tape if you’re in a rush. ^{[12]
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  Expert Source
  
  Mia Danilowicz
  Master Tailor
  
  Expert Interview. 8 January 2021.}
3
Tie off the thread and cut off any excess to finish the hem. End your stitched seam by passing the needle and thread through the loop of a previous stitch to knot it. ^{[13]
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Research source} Then, use an iron to flatten out the hem, and complete your sewing project!
- If you used a sewing machine, unfold your hem and look for the ‘--^----^--’ pattern on the back of the fabric.
- The stitches on the other side are “blind,” as in you’ll only see a tiny dot where the ‘^’ stitch hooked onto the fabric.

Method 3

Method 3 of 4:

Sewing a Single-Fold Hem

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1
Prevent fraying on single-fold hems by securing the raw edge. A single-fold is just what it sounds like. You fold the raw edge of the fabric up once and sew it into place. ^{[14]
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Research source} However, the lack of a second fold means you must take a step to prevent the raw edge from fraying.
- Single-fold hems are usually narrower than double-fold hems, but you can make them any width you like.
- The most common ways to prevent fraying are to use a sewing machine to zigzag the edge (called a zigzag hem ) or use a serger to neaten the edge (sometimes called a serged hem or overlocked hem ).
2
Measure and fold the edge up once, then pin it in place and press it. Use straight pins to hold your fold in place. Then, press the fabric all along the fold. Make sure you remove the pins as you press the fabric to avoid pin marks. ^{[15]
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- Place a clean towel between the fabric and your iron to protect the fabric as you press it.
3
Sew along the serged or stitched edge of the hem. If you used a serger to neaten the raw edge of your fabric, make your stitches down the middle of the serger stitches to make the seam stronger. Or make your seam along the neatened edge of the fabric. ^{[16]
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- Another way to prevent fraying on single-fold hems is to use bias tape for sewing . This is called a faced hem (or a bound hem when the binding completely covers the hem).
- When using bias binding tape , line it up with the raw edge of the fabric and sew a seam through the edge of the tape along the fabric’s edge.
- Then, sew the hem by making a seam along the unstitched edge of the bias tape.

Method 4

Method 4 of 4:

Sewing a Rolled Hem

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1
Sew a seam ¼ inch (5mm) from the desired finished edge of a rolled hem. For example, if your seam allowance is 1 inch (25.4 mm), your seam is ¾ inch (19mm) from the edge of the fabric. A rolled hem is ideal if you’re working with a sheer or delicate fabric. ^{[17]
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- A rolled hem is also a good choice if you’re hemming a curved edge.
2

Fold the edge of the fabric up to ⅛ inch (3 mm) past the seam and press it. Pressing the fabric is an extra step, but it can make the next step easier, whether you’re using a sewing machine or hand-sewing your hem. ^{[18]
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3

Secure the hem by sewing on top of the previous seam. You’re sewing this second seam about ⅛ inch (3 mm) from the folded edge of the fabric. Continue sewing all along the hem until you reach the end of the fabric. ^{[19]
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4
Press the seam flat and cut off the excess fabric. Using a sharp pair of scissors, trim off the raw edge of the seam allowance as close to your seam as you can get. This step is especially important if you’re working with sheer fabric to make the hem as invisible as possible. ^{[20]
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- If you’d like to make your rolled seam extra-strong, roll the hemline just enough to hide the raw edge and then press the entire hem flat.
- Sew through the middle of the rolled him all along your hemline.

First Step For Hemming Pants

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Should I make hem stitches loose or tight?

David Pew
Professional Tailor
David Pew is a Professional Tailor based in Seattle, Washington. He owns his own tailoring business, Sew Generously, which he founded in 2013. With over 15 years of experience, David specializes in bespoke tailoring and alterations. He uses his experiences, skills, and eye for detail to produce the highest quality of products. David believes in creating garments with the finest materials that are built to last, and is a dedicated craftsman. Through Sew Generously’s website, David runs a blog, Stitching Confidential, where he writes on different topics in the tailoring, fashion, and art worlds. The business also hosts Sew Generously Galleries, quarterly art shows where they invite local artists to display their art, host workshops, and perform for the community at their shop. David received a BA in German and French from Western Washington University.

David Pew

Professional Tailor

Expert Answer

Always make your hem stitches loose. If you make them tight, your pants will look puckered at the bottom.

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What is the best stitch for hemming?

David Pew
Professional Tailor
David Pew is a Professional Tailor based in Seattle, Washington. He owns his own tailoring business, Sew Generously, which he founded in 2013. With over 15 years of experience, David specializes in bespoke tailoring and alterations. He uses his experiences, skills, and eye for detail to produce the highest quality of products. David believes in creating garments with the finest materials that are built to last, and is a dedicated craftsman. Through Sew Generously’s website, David runs a blog, Stitching Confidential, where he writes on different topics in the tailoring, fashion, and art worlds. The business also hosts Sew Generously Galleries, quarterly art shows where they invite local artists to display their art, host workshops, and perform for the community at their shop. David received a BA in German and French from Western Washington University.

David Pew

Professional Tailor

Expert Answer

Use a blind stitch so you're just catching one little thread of the outside fabric each time. Also, it's very important to keep those stitches relaxed. If they're tight, they're going to show, and it will look bad.

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Should I hem all the sides of a piece of fabric?

T. Chinsen

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All sides of a hem need to be sewn on a garment. Not sewing all the way around can cause the hem to fall out and get caught or snagged.

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Baste a seam at the place where you want your hem’s edge as a guideline.

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Blind-sewing a hem on a sewing machine is much quicker, but a hand-sewn blind hem will be less noticeable.

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⅝-inch (15 mm) is the standard seam allowance, but you can use whatever measurement you want for your hem.

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Warnings

Don't use a needle that is too thick for the type of fabric you are hemming, or it may make holes that are too big, resulting in a visible hem.

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[2]

Expert Source

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Professional Tailor

[3]

[4]

[5]

[6]

[7]

Kpoene Kofi-Bruce
Couture Bridal Designer

[8]

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[10]

[11]

[12]

Mia Danilowicz
Master Tailor

[13]

[14]

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[16]

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[19]

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How to Sew a Hem by Hand or with a Machine

Sewing a Hem: The Basics

Steps

Sewing a Double-Fold Hem

Sewing a Blind Hem

Sewing a Single-Fold Hem

Sewing a Rolled Hem

First Step For Hemming Pants

Expert Q&A

Video

Tips

Warnings

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References

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