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Staining wood is super easy if you take the time to prepare your wood the right way. Some types of wood get splotchy when stains are added to them, making it important to use a wood conditioner before using the stain. Apply the stain in even strokes and wipe away the excess. Once the stain is dry, add a sealant to protect your wood. Double-check that your wood conditioner, stain, and sealant are all compatible so you're sure to end up with beautiful stained wood.

Part 1
Part 1 of 4:

Sanding and Conditioning the Wood

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  1. Rub the sandpaper against the wood going in the direction of the grain. Once you've sanded the whole piece of wood evenly, wipe off the dust using a clean rag. [1]
    • The 120-grit sandpaper will help get rid of any imperfections in the wood left from dirt or other debris.
    • Dampen the rag before wiping away the sawdust if desired⁠—just make sure you let the wood dry completely before treating it.
    • Fill any holes or dents in the wood using a wood filler that matches the color of your wood before sanding, if desired. You can find wood filler at any local home improvement store or online.
  2. Do a second round of sanding using the higher grit sandpaper. Repeat the same process that you did with the 120-grit sandpaper, rubbing the entire surface before removing the extra sawdust with a clean rag. [2]
    • The 220-grit sandpaper is a finer grit that will leave a very smooth finish.
    • Always sand going with the direction of the grain.
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  3. Dip a natural bristle brush, rag, or sponge into the wood conditioner and apply even strokes to the wood. Cover the entire piece of wood evenly with a thin layer of the wood conditioner. [3]
    • The wood should be clean and dry without any other finishes on it before using a wood conditioner.
  4. Use a clean rag to gently wipe away the extra wood conditioner. Use small strokes to wipe it off, going in the direction of the wood grain. [4]
    • Read the instructions on the wood conditioner to see how long they recommend leaving it on the wood, following their advice to ensure the best results.
  5. Set a timer for 30 minutes so you know when the wood should be dry. Aim to stain your wood within 2 hours of the wood conditioner drying for the best results. [5]
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Part 2
Part 2 of 4:

Applying the Stain

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  1. Once the wood conditioner is dry, use 220-grit sandpaper or higher to sand the wood. Sand in the direction of the grain, and use a clean cloth to remove the dust created from sanding. [6] [7]
    • Avoid using sandpaper of a lesser grit than 220, otherwise you might scratch the wood.
    • Remove any hardware so your piece is ready for staining.
  2. Stir your can of stain thoroughly using a wooden or plastic stirring utensil. Dip your rag or brush into the stain and spread it on the wood, working your way across the piece in sections. Apply it going in the same direction as the wood grain. [8]
    • Wear gloves to protect your hands from the stain.
  3. Use long strokes to brush or rub the stain onto the wood. Don't worry too much about getting the stain absolutely perfect because you'll be wiping most of it off. Focus on making sure there aren't any major streaks or splatters of stain anywhere on the wood. [9]
    • Continue using long, slow strokes to even out the color of the stain as much as possible.
  4. The longer you leave the stain on the wood, the darker it will get. Use a clean rag to wipe off the excess stain, rubbing the wood lightly going in the direction of the grain to dab up the extra pigment. Be thorough, wiping the stain into the wood and creating a thin, even layer of stain. [10]
    • Don't let the stain sit for longer than15 minutes. [11]
    • It’s best to wipe your stain up sooner rather than later⁠—you can always add additional coats if it’s too light, but it’s much harder to remove stain that’s too dark.
    • Pay careful attention to any darker or splotchy areas, wiping them up with the rag so the wood is an even color.
    • You may need to use multiple rags.
  5. Let the wood lay flat in a well-ventilated area for the 4 hours that it’s drying. If you decide you still want it darker, apply another coat of the stain by brushing it on in the direction of the grain, waiting 5-15 minutes for it to absorb, and then wiping it off again with a clean cloth. [12] [13]
    • Repeat this as many times as necessary until you get your desired shade.
    • Make sure you let each coat of stain dry completely before applying an additional one.
    • After you've waited 4 hours and feel that the stain is dry, your wood is ready for a sealant.
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Part 3
Part 3 of 4:

Finishing the Wood with a Sealant

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  1. While you don't have to seal your wood, it's definitely recommended if you want your piece to last a long time and stay durable. Protective coats like polyurethane work well and can be found at hardware stores or online. Use a wooden or plastic stick to gently stir the finishing coat, using slow, gentle motions. [14]
    • Protective finishing coats have a range of sheens, from matte to high gloss.
    • Avoid shaking the can of finishing coat to prevent unwanted bubbles.
    • After using a sealant, you can't easily add additional layers of stain to your wood, so be sure it's the color you want.
  2. Dip your brush into the can of sealant, brushing it onto the wood going in the direction of the grain. Cover the entire piece of wood evenly using a thin layer of the protective coat. [15]
    • Feel free to test your sealant out on your test piece of wood before applying it to your project if desired.
  3. If you let the protective coat dry for 4 hours and you think it’s done, awesome! If not, use 220-grit sandpaper to gently sand the top layer before wiping away the dust with a clean cloth. [16]
    • Brushing on additional coats will add protection and shine (depending on your type of sealant) to your wood.
  4. Repeat the process of brushing on the sealant, going in the direction of the grain and applying it in an even, thin layer. Wait another 4 hours for it to dry, and decide if it’s finished or it needs another coat. [17]
    • Most people add two coats of sealant onto their wood.
    • Once you decide your piece of wood is finished, wait 48 hours for it to dry completely before using it.
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Part 4
Part 4 of 4:

Choosing a Stain and Conditioner

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  1. This means they should all have the same base. If you choose an oil-based stain like Varathane , you'll need to pick out an oil-based conditioner and sealant. A water-based stain will need water-based products to go with it. [18]
    • This ensures each layer works together to create a smooth finish.
    • Purchase wood stain and wood conditioners at your local hardware store or online.
  2. Oil-based stains are the most popular, and they're often the easiest to apply to the wood. They also go the deepest into the wood, giving it a nice depth and beautiful color. While they're easy to apply, they don't offer protection for the wood, so you'll definitely need to add a final coat of sealant if you choose oil-based products. [19]
    • Oil-based stains are good for softwoods, like pine and birch.
    • Oil-based stains usually only need 1-2 coats.
  3. Water-based stains are easy to clean up and are more resistant to things like mildew and mold. These products won't create the same rich color that an oil-based product would, but they do keep their color for a long period of time. [20]
    • Cedar, cypress, and redwood all do well with water-based stains.
    • Water-based stains and conditioners dry very quickly.
    • If you choose a water-based stain, a wood conditioner will be necessary because water-based stains raise the grain of the wood.
  4. Gel stains don't penetrate the surface of the wood, meaning they bring out some of the wood's markings but mostly act as a layer of paint. They're great for types of woods that usually become splotchy when stains are added, like maple, pine, cherry, and birch. [21]
    • Gel stains work particularly well on vertical surfaces like doors or cabinets because they don't run or splatter as much.
    • Be careful when using gel stains on crevices, as the stain tends to gather in these spots and can be difficult to remove.
  5. Find a small piece of wood that’s the same type you’ll be staining, if possible. Dab the stain onto this test piece of wood using a rag to see how light or dark it turns out. [22]
    • Testing your stain on this small piece will let you see how the stain will affect your variety of wood before you apply it to your project.
    • You may have an easier time staining lighter woods, like pine, as opposed to darker woods, like oak. [23]
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Community Q&A

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Add New Question
  • Question
    Can I just stain the wood and not add a finish to it?
    Community Answer
    Yes, but the wood will have no protection and the stain is very likely to fade over time.
  • Question
    My industrial tech teacher said that olive oil could be used to make a "stain" for our cutting boards if we didn't finish it. Is this true?
    John Gaspard
    Community Answer
    Olive oil is a food safe protectant, but it does go rancid. Same thing for peanut, canola, or any other edible oil. The best option is food grade mineral oil, followed with a thin coat of melted beeswax rubbed in. The cutting board will have to be replenished over time, and mineral oil works great for that as well.
  • Question
    Would it affect the results if I stained a closet door without laying it flat?
    Community Answer
    It's possible that the stain could run, leaving streaks. To get the best finish, you want to place the door on a flat, even surface before staining it.
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      Tips

      • Woods such as birch, maple, cherry, and pine can be difficult to stain and sometimes leave splotches, making the wood conditioner an important step.
      • Apply your chosen stain to a test piece of wood if possible.
      • If your piece of wood already has other finishes on it, use a stripping agent to remove them first.
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      Warnings

      • Work in a well-ventilated area so you're not breathing in the fumes of the stain and other products.
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      Things You'll Need

      • Sandpaper (120-grit and 220-grit)
      • Clean rag
      • Pre-stain wood conditioner
      • Test piece of wood
      • Natural bristle brush
      • Gloves
      • Stain
      • Wooden or plastic stirring stick
      • Polyurethane protective finishing coat

      About This Article

      Article Summary X

      To stain wood, start by sanding the surface with sandpaper, then using a damp cloth to wipe away any debris or dust. Next, use a sponge or brush to evenly apply a coat of the stain in one continuous movement along the grain. After the stain has absorbed for 10 minutes, you can add another layer of stain to get a darker color or leave it with one coat. Once you have the color you want, allow the wood to dry for 8 hours before applying a layer of polyurethane to protect and seal the piece. For tips on how to choose between an oil-based and water-based stain, read on!

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