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Learn how professionals successfully eradicate house mice
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We’ve all imagined professionals arriving at someone’s house for extermination–dressed in white hazmat suits and prepared to fumigate the entire building… but there are several ways exterminators kill mice before arriving at that step! If you’re curious about the pest control process, keep reading to discover how exterminators effectively get rid of mice (and how long it takes).

This article is based on an interview with our MMPC-certified pest control specialist, Kevin Carrillo. Check out the full interview here.

Things You Should Know

  • Exterminators get rid of mice through a process called exclusion–sealing possible openings in your home that mice may be using to enter.
  • If exclusion isn’t possible, professionals place snap traps around areas with droppings, or they use bait stations to kill large mice colonies over time.
  • Fumigation is only used if mice pose a threat to an entire building and all the other methods do not work.
Section 2 of 7:

Sealing Home Entryways

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  1. Typically, mice don’t live inside your house–they live off-site and only stop by for food. To prevent mice from entering your space in the first place, professionals use a method called exclusion, where they search for any structural openings (cracks, holes) in your home. Any gaps are filled with materials that mice can't chew through. [1]
    • It’s important to seal any potential openings because mice can fit through a hole as small as 0.25 inches (0.64 cm) in diameter! [2] If you'd like, search for potential entryways in your home and block them with wire screening or sheet metal .
    • If exterminators can’t find any entryways, trapping mice is the next step.
Section 3 of 7:

Snap Traps

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  1. Professionals set up snap traps to eradicate small mice populations. If exclusion isn’t possible (or effective), exterminators position snap traps around your home, especially in areas with gnaw marks and/or rodent droppings. [3] The most common trap is the traditional snap trap with a wooden base and metal spring, but some exterminators prefer using modern plastic ones. [4]
    • Traditional snap traps are the safest extermination option because they don’t involve any poisonous materials that could harm pets or small children. They’re also relatively cheap and easy to set up on your own!
    • Trap placement is key to successful extermination. Most professionals place traps in pairs against a wall, vertically with their triggers closest to the wall or horizontally with their triggers facing opposite sides. [5]
    • If the snap trap doesn’t work, it could signal that there’s a large female mice population. Female mice hunt for nesting materials (rather than food), so exterminators may place cotton balls or paper towels in the traps instead.
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Section 4 of 7:

Bait Stations

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  1. Rodents are extremely sensitive so the toxicity of bait must be low. Bait boxes are ideal because they provide an uninterrupted, low-dose supply for 2 weeks. [6] Inside the box, exterminators leave rodenticide (usually an anticoagulant or blood-thinner) that slowly–and fatally–builds up in the rodent’s body.
    • An immediate kill is undesirable because it makes the bait ineffective–other mice learn that the food is poisoned!
    • If you don’t believe you have a severe mice infestation, you can set up your own bait station without calling an exterminator!
Section 5 of 7:

Fumigation

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  1. Fumigation requires tenting your home and filling it with poisonous chemicals, so most extermination companies do not recommend (or even offer) this service for mice. Exterminators only use this method if localized approaches (traps and bait) are ineffective and mice pose a threat to an entire structure. [7]
    • Choose your exterminator carefully. Ask to see their company license, and call your local pesticide regulatory agency if you have any concerns. [8]
    • Fumigation is expensive–with costs ranging from $2,000-6,000! [9]
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