How to Keep & Care for Blood Parrot Cichlids

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Parrot cichlids (also known as blood parrot cichlids), with their bright colors and other interesting features, are tropical and hybrid fish that offer an alternative to the more common Oscar or angelfish. They get their name from their parrot-like mouths and greenish yellow colorings. As with any companion animal, parrot cichlids come with responsibilities. The good news is that keeping parrot cichlids should be a breeze after you set up the tank, learn how to care for your fish, and learn how to treat common diseases.

Part 1
Part 1 of 3:

Setting up the Tank

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  1. Parrot cichlids can grow as large as 10 inches (25 cm) long. For this reason, you'll need to buy at least a 42-gallon (159 L) tank if you want to keep only one fish.
    • Aim for 10 additional gallons (38 L) for each fish if you're planning on giving your fish some companions. Parrot cichlids like to have several hiding places along the bottom of the aquarium, so a taller tank wouldn't help.
  2. Parrot cichlids are large fish with healthy appetites. Their tendency to dig in the substrate can stir up dirt and algae. This is why they require a larger filter. A heavy-duty wet/dry filter will help to remove these waste products and keep the water clean. Purchase a filter that can be mounted to the back of the tank. Avoid anything that goes under the substrate, as digging fish can easily disturb its functioning.
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  3. Many breeds of parrot cichlids originate in warm South American climates. Keep the aquarium temperature about 76 to 84 °F (24 to 29 °C). [1] Even blood parrot cichlids, bred in captivity by humans, thrive in warmer waters. Temperatures below 80 °F (27 °C) might cause cichlids to become less social.
  4. Parrot cichlids like to dig, so make sure the substrate is soft. Opt for fine dark sand, which they can comfortably burrow under. Avoid putting plants in the aquarium, since the cichlid's tendency to dig could knock them over.
  5. Parrot cichlids can be territorial, especially if you plan on adding smaller tankmates. Keep broken flowerpots, small rocks, driftwood, or stacked rocks to form caves that provide the fish with hiding spots.
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Part 2
Part 2 of 3:

Caring for Your Fish

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  1. Place your cichlid into the aquarium while they're still in the bag. Let them remain there for at least 15–30 minutes. Then, gently scoop your fish into a net and into the aquarium. Dispose of the bag water by dumping it down the drain or watering your garden if you have one. Don't let any water from the bag drip into the aquarium.
    • You should set up your fish tank about a month before you plan to add your fish. Because a tank needs time to build up the good bacteria and establish a natural cycle for the fish.
  2. Parrot cichlids are omnivorous, meaning that they'll eat plant or animal products. Proper food includes brine shrimp, bloodworms, tropical flakes, sinking pellets, and commercial parrot cichlid food. Make sure your fish get enough fiber to prevent swim bladder disease. Feed your fish at least twice a day.
  3. Choose light bulbs that emit light from the red end of the visible spectrum. Purchase them at pet supply stores or hobbyist stores. Blue light could dull the color of your fish's scales. The lighting shouldn't be too bright, as cichlids prefer darker waters in the wild. Keep the wattage between 0.5 and 1 watt per gallon (4 L).
    • Don't leave the lights on for more than 12 hours per day. Too much light for too long can encourage the growth of deadly cyanobacteria (also known as blue-green “algae”). [2]
    • Change the lightbulbs if they're a year old. [3]
  4. A good pH for a parrot cichlid would be between 6.5 and 7.8. Monitor the water and every object you put in the tank. This includes driftwood and other hiding places, as well as the substrate. Rocks that contain too much calcium can make the water too alkaline and can dull your fish's color. Wild breeds of parrot cichlids can tolerate pH levels as low as 4.0 before feeling any health effects. Buy pH testing strips in any pet supply store or big box store. [4]
  5. High levels of nitrite and phosphate can contribute to cyanobacteria (blue-green algae), which can kill your fish. To prevent the algae from growing, use separate testing kits for nitrite and phosphate. Nitrite shouldn't exceed 0.1 parts per million (ppm), and phosphate shouldn't go over 0.2 ppm.
    • If the phosphate levels get too high, add a phosphate-removing material to your filter. For high levels of nitrite, clean all debris from the tank with a siphon vacuum. Then, clean out your filter thoroughly. Remove a third of the water in the tank and replace with clean water. [5]
    • If you notice cyanobacteria growth, install balanced bulbs that emit 6,000 to 14,000 kilowatts. Lower the tank temperature to 76 °F (24 °C). Change 10 percent of the water every other day until nitrite and phosphate return to normal. Use a testing kit to measure their levels. [6]
  6. Siphon at least 20 to 25 percent of the water in the tank. Aim for 25 percent if you have several fish. Clean any algae growing on the glass and/or in the substrate. Algae can be green or brown when growing on surfaces. Algae blooms occur on the water. Tackle them by:
    • Not worrying too much about green algae growing on decorations. It's generally harmless.
    • Cleaning brown algae growing on the tank, with a sponge or algae magnet. Use a siphon vacuum to remove any algae growing on decorations or the substrate.
    • Recognizing algae blooms . Green, cloudy water is the telltale sign. Replace all of the water. Clean the entire tank and its components thoroughly. Install a diatomic filter to remove any lurking algae and prevent recurrences. [7]
  7. Parrot cichlids are rather territorial and will act aggressively toward smaller fish. If you choose to add other fish, consider silver dollars, black skirt tetras, convict cichlids, and other semi-aggressive fish nearly the size of the parrot cichlid. Avoid smaller tetra, angelfish, discus, and ram cichlids.
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Part 3
Part 3 of 3:

Responding to Parrot Cichlid Diseases

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  1. Ich is a highly contagious parasite that takes the form of small white cilia-covered spots on the fish's body. To fight it, raise the tank temperature to 86 °F (30 °C) for three days. This should kill the parasite.
    • If the spots don't disappear after three days, put your fish in a quarantine tank and add cupramine (copper solution) to the water. Follow the instructions on the label. Keep the copper levels at 0.2 ppm. You can measure copper levels with a salifert test kit that you can find in hobby stores. [8]
    • Kill off the Ich in the original tank with aquarium salts, which you can buy in pet supply stores. Add one teaspoon (5 g) per gallon (4 L) of water every 12 hours for 36 hours. Let the salt remain in the tank for 7 to 10 days. [9]
  2. Blood parrot cichlids have parrot-like mouths and back humps. This unique anatomy puts them at risk for swim bladder disease. In this condition, the fish gets constipated and swims at an awkward angle. To correct this problem, feed the fish two to three shelled peas once a week to regulate the bowels.
  3. Parrot cichlids, especially blood parrot cichlids, are also prone to bacterial infections, fungal infections, and parasites like skin flues and worms. Talk to your vet or read books that detail common diseases among parrot cichlids. Recognize the early symptoms and how to treat them. As with many diseases, early detection can make a world of difference.
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  • Question
    I have two red parrot fish and I wish to add a yellow one. Can I place the yellow one in the same tank as the red ones?
    Community Answer
    Yes, they are all the same breed, so you shouldn't have any issues.
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  • Question
    Is it okay to have a lot of parrot cichlids in one 4 liter tank?
    Community Answer
    No, it is not enough space for all of them.
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  • Question
    Is it possible to keep blood parrot and angelfish together?
    Community Answer
    Yes, you just need to have a big enough tank so they can have their space, and add some plants for the blood parrot to hide in.
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      Warnings

      • If not housed in an appropriate sized aquarium the growth of the fish would be stunted.
        Thanks
        Helpful 16 Not Helpful 4
      • The blood parrot cichlid is a hybrid breed crossbred in labs by humans. Some hobbyists are against keeping fish that were bred artificially.
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        Helpful 7 Not Helpful 4
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      Things You'll Need

      • Air pump
      • Aquarium
      • Driftwood or other ornaments
      • Heater
      • Hood with lighting
      • Nitrite test kit
      • Phosphate testing kit
      • pH test kit
      • Filtration
      • Substrate

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      References

      1. ↑ https://animal-world.com/south-american-cichlids-information/
      2. ↑ https://pethelpful.com/fish-aquariums/Aquarium-Algae-Control-How-to-Get-Rid-of-Algae-in-a-Fish-Tank
      3. ↑ https://pethelpful.com/fish-aquariums/Blue-Green-Algae-and-Red-Slime
      4. ↑ https://animal-world.com/encyclo/fresh/cichlid/information/South-American-Cichlids-Information.php
      5. ↑ https://www.liveaquaria.com/PIC/article.cfm?aid=242
      6. ↑ https://pethelpful.com/fish-aquariums/Blue-Green-Algae-and-Red-Slime
      7. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m959K4NU-t0
      8. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92xU8cIOEHc
      9. ↑ https://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/treatment_tips.php

      About This Article

      Article Summary X

      To keep a parrot cichlid, start by setting up a 42-gallon tank with a large cannister filter and a heater so you can keep the water between 76 and 84°F. Then, add a soft substrate, like fine dark sand, and hiding places, such as rocks or driftwood. Once your cichlid is in the tank, feed it things like brine shrimp, bloodworms, or tropical flakes at least twice a day. Additionally, make sure to clean the tank weekly, and routinely test and adjust the pH, nitrate, and phosphate levels in the tank to keep your cichlid healthy. For tips on how to keep more than 1 parrot cichlid or keep your parrot cichlid in a tank with other fish, read on!

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