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If your unfinished pine furniture, cabinet, or paneling looks a little lackluster, a fresh coat of paint may be just what it needs. Painting pine is a simple project you can do yourself, but before you grab a paintbrush, there are a few tips and tricks you’ll want to be aware of to make sure you get the best finished result possible (that actually lasts). Don’t worry—this article will walk you through everything you need to know.

Part 1
Part 1 of 3:

Repairing and Sanding Pine

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  1. Painting can get a little messy. If you’re working in an area where wet paint may be an issue, set up protections before starting. You can place painter’s tape over areas you wish to protect. Set a plastic tarp on the ground to protect flooring. [1]
    • Painter’s tape works very well when you’re painting near a wall, for instance. You may have a pine wall or trim. Lay strips of tape around the pine for protection.
    • Painter’s tape and tarp are available online and at most hardware stores. These locations also have anything else you may need to paint pine.
  2. There are several hazards to be aware of during the painting process. If you’re wearing a dust mask, you can protect yourself from wood dust, paint chips, and paint fumes. If possible, work outdoors or in an otherwise ventilated area. Open up nearby doors and windows. [2]
    • Keep other people and pets out of the area until you’re done working.
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  3. If you’re working with a piece of pine that has been painted in the past, check it over for loose paint chips or cracks. Then, hold the edge of the knife roughly parallel to the wood. Push down with a gentle but firm amount of pressure as you move the knife across it. You do not have to remove any paint that isn’t cracked or loose. [3]
    • Work in different directions to get the knife underneath the paint. It can be difficult to remove and often requires a couple of attempts.
    • Be careful when scraping paint. You could gouge the wood if you push too hard against it.
  4. Apply a wood filler to any holes or cracks in the wood. Damaged spots have to be filled in with something solid, such as a paintable wood filler. To apply it, pick some of it up with the tip of a putty knife. Press it as deep as you can into the damaged portion of the wood. Keep spreading more filler until the repaired spot is slightly higher than the surrounding wood. [4]
    • The filler will get worn down while you’re sanding, so make sure you add a little more of it than you think you need. If you don’t use enough, it won’t blend in well with the rest of the wood.
    • You can also use some other types of paintable filler. For example, mix resin for a stronger way to fill holes more than 1 8  in (0.32 cm) deep. It is made by mixing equal parts resin and hardener.
  5. To make sanding easier, make use of an electric sander. It can be a very slow process if you do it by hand, especially on larger projects. Work along the grain, or in the direction of the visible wood fibers you can see on each pine board. [5]
    • You can sand by hand if you don’t have an electric sander. Get sandpaper or a sanding block. Press it against the wood with firm but consistent pressure.
    • Always sand in the direction of the grain. If you go against the grain, you will end up tearing the wood fibers, creating very noticeable scratches.
  6. Move the tack cloth along the grain, starting at the top of the wood. Since it is sticky, it will pick up all the loose sawdust and other debris. Rub down the entire piece of pine and then check it for anything you missed. [6]
    • If you don’t have a tack cloth, scrub the wood with a microfiber cloth lightly dampened in lukewarm water.
  7. Use an electric sander again to make the process much quicker. Go back over the entire piece of pine, following along the grain. Make sure you have sanded the entire area you wish to paint. Sanding roughs up the wood so paint adheres to it better. [7]
    • You can sand the wood by hand if you wish. You may need to in order to treat spaces that are hard to reach with an electric sander.
    • Sandpaper grits above 120 are finer and can also be used. Lower-grit sandpaper is coarser and could damage the finish at this point.
  8. Since you sanded the wood a second time, it will have more sawdust on it. Take care of it so it doesn’t affect the finish later. Make sure the wood looks completely clean before attempting to paint it. [8]
    • Any debris left on the wood could prevent the paint from adhering correctly, so take plenty of time to clean it. Try to paint it as soon as possible before more dust has a chance to settle on it.
    • If you can’t paint the wood right away, store it, then wipe it clean again right before painting it.
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Part 2
Part 2 of 3:

Priming the Surface

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  1. One of the biggest problems with pine is that the tannins and resins inside of it often bleed through the paint. You end up with a brown ring, similar to a water stain. Shellac primers are very good at resisting color bleeding, although there are other types of primers you can use as well. [9] Choose a stain-blocking primer that is compatible with the kind of paint you plan on using. [10]
    • Shellac primers come in both spray and paint-on varieties and work with most types of paint. The spray-on version is faster for covering broad areas, but use the paint-on version for more consistency and detail work.
    • Oil-based primers are much more resistant than water-based ones. You can pick one if you’re using an oil-based paint. Polyurethane and wax primers also work with oil-based paints.
    • You may see different primer colors. White shellac is best for light paints, while gray is preferable for dark colors.
  2. Shellac primer is somewhat strong, so don’t use a foam brush. Dip your brush into the shellac to coat it, then tap it against the side of the can. Finish by applying the primer along the wood’s grain. Coat the entire wood in a thin but consistent layer. [11]
    • Try using an inexpensive chip brush, which is a disposable type of brush with short bristles that hold up well against any type of primer. Save your better brushes for the paint.
    • If you’re using a spray-on primer, hold the sprayer nozzle about 6 in (15 cm) from the pine. Sweep it along the pine at a slow but steady rate.
    • If you’re working with knotty pine, consider priming the knots first for extra protection. Coat them 2 to 3 times, then apply 2 layers of primer across the entire piece like you normally would.
  3. Check the manufacturer's recommendations for a more specific estimate of the drying time required. It varies depending on the primer you are using. It also varies depending on the weather. Expect the primer to dry at a slower rate during cold or humid weather. [12]
    • To ensure the second layer of primer is consistent, wait for the first one to fully cure. The exact time it takes varies depending on the product.
  4. Apply the second layer just like you did with the first one. Keep it thin and consistent, working from one end of the wood to the other. Go along the grain at all times. Remember to let this layer dry fully as well before painting over it. [13]
    • Make sure the pine is well-coated before painting it. If the primer looks uneven, consider giving it at least 1 additional coating. Let each layer of primer dry before adding another one.
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Part 3
Part 3 of 3:

Applying the Paint

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  1. Oil-based paints are much more resistant against the color bleeding that can be a big problem with pine. Try getting an alkyd paint, which is made with synthetic resins. Make sure the primer you used is compatible with the paint you pick. Shellac primers work with both oil and water-based paints, but other types of primers may only work with water-based paints.
    • Alkyd paints are good for most projects since they tend to last a long time. If you’re painting something you use every day, consider getting an alkyd paint.
    • Latex-based paints are less resistant to water and color bleeding. You may still be able to get a good finish by using one, and it’s an inexpensive option if the wood won’t get wet at all.
    • For special finishes, try using milk or chalk paints instead. These paints crack and flake, giving wood a distressed look. They are pretty resistant against color bleeding, but apply a primer first for maximum protection.
  2. Paint can be applied either with a paint brush, paint sprayer, or spray can. It is usually easier when you start from the top, moving gradually in straight lines while following the grain. Move at a steady but consistent rate to ensure the wood gets coated in an even layer of paint. The initial layer will most likely look a little thin at first, but you can fix it later. [14]
    • Use a paint sprayer to save time when applying liquid paint. It’s best for bigger projects, such as if you’re painting furniture outdoors. You may still need to switch to a brush in order to reach smaller areas.
  3. That may seem like a long time, but it’s worth it in the end. The paint has to finish drying or else the finished product may not turn out the way you expect. Note that the required drying time varies depending on the type of paint you’re using. Check the manufacturer’s recommendations for more specific instructions. [15]
    • Oil-based paints require a little bit of waiting, so you most likely will have to finish painting the pine on a different day. The finish will be worth it, though!
    • Water-based paints, such as latex and milk paints, dry at a much faster rate. They often dry within 2 to 4 hours.
  4. Apply the second layer over the first one, making sure it’s completely covered. Remember to work end to end along the grain, gradually applying the paint in a thin but consistent layer. This will deepen the finish and even it out. [16]
    • Make sure the paint job looks even and consistent across the pine. One mistake many people make is applying too much paint all at once, which leads to uneven spots.
  5. Sometimes, pine won’t look finished after 2 coats of paint. You can always add more paint to correct imperfections and fix an uneven finish. Apply a third layer as needed, keeping it thin but consistent. It will need the same amount of drying time as the other layers, but the pine may look even better afterward. [17]
    • Most projects only require 2 to 3 coatings of paint. However, as long as you let each layer dry, you can add as many additional layers as you want.
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Expert Q&A

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  • Question
    Do I need to prime pine before painting?
    Jeff Baldwin
    Residential Painter
    Jeff Baldwin is a Residential Painter and the Owner of Baldwin Custom Painting, based in San Francisco, CA. With two decades of painting experience, Jeff specializes in high-end residential and small commercial painting projects. Dedicated to quality craftsmanship, Jeff and Baldwin Custom Painting provide bonded/insured, licensed, and lead-safe certified services in residential painting, light commercial painting, and wood refinishing.
    Residential Painter
    Expert Answer
    Apply a coat of shellac primer to help prevent the wood from staining your paint.
  • Question
    Can I paint over treated pine?
    Community Answer
    You can paint over treated pine, but manufacturers of treated lumber suggest you leave the wood dry for about a year before painting. After the wood is installed, leave it to dry for a few months, then prime and paint. It takes several coats.
  • Question
    How can paint be thinned out?
    Community Answer
    It depends on the type of paint. Most paint that people buy is water-based acrylic paint. This can easily be thinned with water. Simply add a little water at a time until you get the consistency you're looking for. If you're working with an oil-based paint, you can add paint thinner. Don't know if your paint is water- or oil-based? Take a stick, stir the paint, and run the stick under water. Oil paint will cause the water to bead up, and no paint will wash away. Acrylic paint will wash away under the water.
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      Tips

      • Painting can take a long time. Set aside several days for your project so the paint and primer have plenty of time to dry.
      • If the primer or paint layers look inconsistent, you can sand them to level them out. Try using an orbital sander for a quick, safe way to do this.
      • Rollers are useful for covering large, flat areas with paint. Even if you use a roller, you may need to switch to a brush in order to finish hard-to-reach areas that most pine items have.
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      Warnings

      • Remember to sand and paint in a well-ventilated area to protect your wellbeing. Wear a dust mask to deal with sawdust and paint fumes.
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      Things You'll Need

      • 100-grit sandpaper
      • 120-grit sandpaper
      • Tack cloth
      • Primer (preferably oil-based)
      • Paint (preferably alkyd oil paint)
      • Paint brushes
      • Dust mask
      • Tarp (optional)
      • Painter’s tape (optional)
      • Wood filler (optional)
      • Stiff putty knife (optional)

      About This Article

      Article Summary X

      Painting pine is relatively easy if you take the time to sand it and fill in any gaps. Pine is prone to color bleeding, especially if your wood has knots, but you can remedy this by applying a wood filler to any holes or cracks, sanding the surface, and using a primer. Look for shellac-based primers for the most effective solution. You’ll want to apply a couple of coats of primer, which will also help the paint stick. For the most durable finish, use an oil-based paint. You’ll usually need 2 to 3 coats, but you can paint as many layers as you like to get the right look. Just leave each coat to dry for 24 hours. For more tips, including how to remove any old paint on your pine wood, read on!

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