Q&A for How to Hem Jeans

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  • Question
    How do you do a straight hem?
    Andrea Beaulieu
    Professional Tailor & Fashion Designer
    Andrea Beaulieu is a Professional Tailor, Fashion Designer, and the Owner of MOORE, a Brooklyn, New York based storefront and apparel workshop for gender-neutral, contemporary streetwear as well as custom-tailored products. Andrea has over 20 years in the fashion design and marketing industries and specializes in pattern making, draping, and the construction of garments. She holds a BS in Fashion Design and Merchandising from the University of North Carolina at Greensboro.
    Professional Tailor & Fashion Designer
    Expert Answer
    Before you sew the hem, iron the fold so that it's perfectly flat and straight. For denim, it's also a good idea to hammer the fold so it's softer and easier to sew straight.
  • Question
    Do I need to do anything to prep my jeans before I hem them?
    Andrea Beaulieu
    Professional Tailor & Fashion Designer
    Andrea Beaulieu is a Professional Tailor, Fashion Designer, and the Owner of MOORE, a Brooklyn, New York based storefront and apparel workshop for gender-neutral, contemporary streetwear as well as custom-tailored products. Andrea has over 20 years in the fashion design and marketing industries and specializes in pattern making, draping, and the construction of garments. She holds a BS in Fashion Design and Merchandising from the University of North Carolina at Greensboro.
    Professional Tailor & Fashion Designer
    Expert Answer
    Before you hem your denim jeans, make sure they've been recently washed, soaked, and dried. Denim often shrinks in both width and length when it's clean, so doing this will ensure that the jeans aren't too short once you wash them. It's also helpful to iron the hem, then hammer it (yes, with an actual hammer) to the denim will be easier to sew.
  • Question
    How do I sew through the thick seam on my jeans?
    Community Answer
    If you are using a sewing machine, make sure you change the needle out to a denim or other heavy-duty needle. By doing this, you will ensure that the needle goes through the denim and does not break.
  • Question
    Will this work on a boot cut?
    Community Answer
    Yes, this technique will work on any type of jean cut for the most part. If you are taking up the hem a great deal, you may have some excess fabric inside the pants, but you should be able to flatten it out well enough.
  • Question
    Does the thread for denim go in the bobbin or on top?
    Community Answer
    You should use denim weight thread in both the top and bobbin threads. If you have different colors, the one that shows on the finished hem will be the bobbin thread if you are stitching with the wrong side up -- the inside of the pant leg is facing up and the hem is rolled to that side.
  • Question
    How do I hem jeans around the zipper?
    Community Answer
    That sounds like a dart, not a hem. Consider going to an experienced tailor with this kind of complicated job.
  • Question
    How do I keep excess material from dropping down when using the original hem?
    Community Answer
    You could hand sew a couple of support stitches at the top of the loop of excess (in the side seam would be the best place to hide them), or just cut it off.
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