Q&A for How to Remove Interior Walls

No, no, no. Moving an exterior wall is a whole and completely different game. Please hire someone qualified, licensed, inspected and fully insured.

In this case, an "Undercut" saw or an oscillating saw with a blade that will cut through metal (spikes/nails) is the way to cut it away and leave a clear flat surface. The other option is to use brute strength but be aware that the subflooring will be damaged. The subfloor will normally be plywood and any damage done to the top laminations can be leveled and cleaned up by using self-leveling floor compound and trowling it out as you pour it. Be careful not to use to much self-leveling compound as it is possible to build a hump onto your floor.

If you are installing a new half bath to an area and no framing is being removed, it is simply a matter of framing in the extra walls and having the plumbing or electrical run in. Plumbing and electrical need to be inspected prior to covering the walls with drywall or other wall coverings, and need to be done by qualified professionals. If you need to remove any framing to build the new half bath, you must ensure that you are not cutting into a load-bearing wall. If you have any questions or are unsure, professional assistance is highly recommended.

By "parch" I assume you mean texture. The level between the ceiling sections can be filled with a strip of drywall. It must be taped and filled to close the joints or it will crack later. Some of the existing texture will need to be removed to fill it properly. Once it is level the texture pattern can be matched but the color will not match. There are spray cans of texture that you can try to match the texture with but if it is a larger area the best results will be attained by hiring a professional. A full respray of both rooms may be required to blend the two ceilings into one pattern.

A transition strip may be the best bet. If both floors are the same wood you can try to locate some of the same type/style of hardwood, patch the area then refinish it all so it matches. Be aware that sanding a floor is a dusty job.

If it needs more than a sliver of drywall, tape and mud, then you need an evaluation by a construction professional. Do you know the wall was NOT a load bearing wall? Please double-check your work ASAP.

You can call a structural engineer to come out and make sure your home will still be safe if you remove the walls. You can also call a general contractor, but they'll probably have to call in a structural engineer, too.

If you can find your floor joists, you can see whether or not the wall is load-bearing. Usually, you can spot these from the attic, basement, or crawl space of your home. If the joists are perpendicular to the wall in question, it's most likely load-bearing.

Yes, as long as the wall is not load-bearing. Oftentimes, the walls in basements are load-bearing, so it's important to double check that before you start. If the wall isn't load-bearing (it just separates 2 rooms), it's okay to remove it.