Q&A for How to Adjust Sewing Machine Timing

The foot control pedal for a machine is nearly always matched to the performance of the machine. If the maximum speed is too slow for you, then you need to upgrade. Most machines have limits. High performance machines are dynamically balanced and will sew in excess of a foot per second. Domestic machines are not balanced and don't run anywhere near as fast as a professional Pfaff, for example. If it seems very slow, then something has gone wrong and you will need a specialist.

A lot of thread jams can be fixed with a new needle. Make sure your machine is oiled properly as well. Refer to your user's manual for instructions in this.

It can only be two things: either the thread isn't being taken low enough to catch the hook, or the timing is out and the bobbin hook is missing the thread due to being in the wrong position. First, try lowering the needle a fraction.

You need to check that your needle is strong enough for the job. This will have some effect on the tensioning of the top stitching. A test run is the best way to see what is required. Thin needles may flex and bend/break with some leathers. When sewing leather, you may need to alter the presser foot setting to ensure that the leather travels positively and at an even rate. The best results come from running your machine at a steady pace.

Generally, if the thread issues appear on the underside of the fabric, the cause is an upper thread problem. If the thread issues appear on the top of the fabric, it is a bobbin thread problem. Always start out with a new needle. Remove the upper thread. Always Raise the presser foot and re-thread from the beginning. Verify the thread path is correct. Set the upper tension to the midway point (this may need to be tweaked as machines differ).

Thread breakage can be caused by poor quality, old, or hand sewing only cotton, as well as the tension being too tight.

Simply adjust your needle. There should be a little screw holding your needle in place. Unscrew the needle and lower it down; it should start picking up thread.

This is quite common when a machine has been left without use for a long time. Rust causes metal to become larger, and can even jack a building apart. First, make sure the machine is clear of cotton fluff, then lubricate all the bearings. Run it for about a minute without thread and with the presser foot in the raised position. If you don't lubricate your machine at least weekly, then it may well become stiff or even damage a bearing, after which the wheel becomes stiff to turn. It's a machine, so it requires maintenance, which means cleaning and lubricating regularly.

Take it to a sewing machine mechanic. Chances are if you try doing it yourself you'll end up making things worse. Been there done that, learn from my mistakes. I'm pretty handy with most things, but the sewing machine was too much.

Try clearing it of fluff and lubricating it. If it was working last week, it has probably dried out. Machines have very close tolerance bearings and, if not lubricated, they will tend to seize up. This usually happens after being used, then put to one side for several days. Machines used infrequently tend to suffer most. If you look after it, it will look after you.

Are you sure you haven't altered the swing needle controls, then fitted the wrong plate? Are you sure that you haven't been trying to use a bent needle? Change the needle and set the controls to zero, ensuring that the stitching length control is set to advance the material under the presser foot. There are some things on a machine that don't move, won't move, can't move. Have you managed to fit the needle in the needle holder the wrong way around? This isn't normally possible. If it is none of these things, then take it to a specialist.

The thread isn't catching the bobbin hook. The happens when the timing is out, or the needle may be a fraction too short. Try lowering it a fraction in its holder. If that doesn't work then it is the timing that has slipped, thus the little hooky thing on the bobbin is in the wrong place when the needle offers the thread. If you unplug your machine from the power, take off the top plate and turn the machine slowly by hand, you will then see what isn't happening. A shop will likely fix this within the hour at no great cost, unless something has broken, which would be very unusual.

It may be getting older, or you may be using a different thickness of fabric or thread.

Try cleaning and oiling the bobbin. You should have some instructions in your user manual. You can also re-thread the machine.

The presser foot may be fitted incorrectly. A new needle will usually locate correctly. If you are using a presser foot designed for sewing into position a zipper, it may be slid from side to side. If it is hitting the foot designed for general work, then it may need replacing. These normally locate with great accuracy when fitted properly. The needle's neutral position cannot move relative to the plate, so the plate fitted is incorrect for the settings on the machine. Check all swing needle settings are at zero and that the needle is centred.

The needle plate may be bent. Try taking a look at it to see if it is sitting flat or is bent. If bent, take it to a sewing machine repairer for fixing. ,

If your machine runs and won't sew, then the thread being offered to the bobbin hook isn't being caught by it. If, when you turn the wheel, it catches the thread after being threaded, but not when it runs, then it may be that the needle isn't low enough. Try lowering the needle a fraction. Lastly, the timing could be out of adjustment and the bobbin's hook out of position, so it cannot catch the thread.

Whatever you do, don't force it. Clean the machine thoroughly and lubricate it. If the wheel jams without the machine being threaded, then something is either broken or out of position. If the machine only jams when threaded, you should be able to discover the problem by feeling the tension on the thread throughout the threaded eyes. Lastly, try rethreading the machine with the presser foot and needle both in the raised position. Check the bobbin for a cotton-nest tangle.

It is under the cover plate, which is under the needle. The plate needs to be removed so that you may observe the bobbin hook and the needle offering it the thread. You will probably be able to work out where to adjust the timing of the hook. If the hook seems to only just miss the needle's thread, then lower it a fraction and retest. If you find the mechanism daunting, you are strongly advised to take it to a specialist.

The thread has likely become knotted. Slide the plate open and remove the bobbin, then untangle the thread or refill and replace the bobbin.

It could be the pedal is not fully engaging, especially if you have an older foot. The spring stretches out over time.

Constant thread slipping is most likely caused by the tension. Try lowering the tension, or hold the thread as you start to sew.

It could be the timing is adrift. On some machines, you can get over the problem by lowering the needle a fraction. If not, take it to somebody who is trained and proficient in repairing sewing machines. Once you get beyond the basics, it can get very messy.

Check to see that you haven't left the machine in the bobbin filling position and that the wheel's center knob has been fully tightened clockwise. If both these things have been returned to the run position, then the drive belt has parted, as in the motor runs, but nothing moves. If the wheel turns, then the drive belt is okay. If after all these checks it still won't move the needle, you need a specialist to attend to it.

Stop trying to use the machine. It sounds as though something has come adrift within, needs to be tightened and retimed. Take it to a specialist.

That sounds like a bent needle, not a timing issue. Try replacing the needle with a brand new one, and be sure you install it correctly. The wide upper shank of the needle (opposite the sharp end) usually has a flat side. When the needle is inserted into the needle bar, this flat side should face the needle clamp screw, so that the clamp screw presses on the flat side to keep the needle from rotating. In general, any time you have a problem with a sewing machine that involves the needle (upper thread breaks, missed stitches, needle hits something, etc.), try replacing the needle before anything else.

That sounds like an issue with the tension. You might need to lower the tension. Alternatively, your thread could be too thin for the material you are sewing, so maybe try a different thread and see if that works.

Open the door to your bobbin race. By hand, lower the needle, while watching what happens below the needle plate. On the bobbin race there's a hook, which should catch the top thread and take it round to embrace the bobbin thread, just as the needle starts to raise from it's lowest point. If that's happening fine, then it may not be the timings.

You don't. With zigzag, precise timings are more vital. But if it works for the zigzag, it'll work for the straight stitch.

It might be the capacitor in the foot control. Try to remove it then the machine should run at normal speed. The capacitor is there to prevent interference with other electronic items in your house eg TV however the capacitor is not needed these days because TVs are more advanced. Try and locate the capacitor in the foot control and remove it, no need to replace.