Q&A for How to Level a Mobile Home

You can usually rent jacks from equipment rental companies and hardware stores that rent to the public. You are looking for at least a 20-ton hydraulic jack, like in the picture.

You will need to move the pile to a new location, probably not more than a couple inches down. For example, if the bricks are leaning like this: /, then you would need to move the pile left until it’s slightly propped like this: \. Then, allow the weight of the home to compress the soil. You may have to do this more than once until the ground has compressed enough to allow a hard and level base surface. Once the pile has been straightened, relevel the trailer.

You can add bricks or another stable resource under the side of your mobile home that is lower than the other side.

That depends on what you want to use to level it: it could range from 50$ - $350 or more.

You will need to jack that section, then remove the block and lower till you notice no more rise. Then, go back under and start to re-level your block to the new height: this will take a few tries, as the new ground will need to compress.

You can do it with a single jack. If you have multiple jacks and multiple people working under the home, you may be able to complete the job faster. Remember EVERY piling/support should be at the same level.

Yes, but you should take the wheels with tires off because these will experience dry rot otherwise. Also, these cannot be used in leveling the home.

The shape of the wedges has a lot to do with a proper wedge shimming job and the space being shimmed. Consider that non-hardwood shims will compress over time, but if you raise the flooring, you may be subject to damage elsewhere whereas a proper wedge is just enough and should do the job.

Remove the hot water heater and furnace, and remove all bad flooring so it looks like a box. Then frame yourself a box with 2x4s to fit inside the floor box -- this will give you a sill to nail your new piece of leveled plywood onto. Always try to make the floor box meet the floor beams on both sides when possible for extra strength. Screw all studs in place, as well as plywood plank in case you ever need to change again.

You can find contractors online, or ask people in your community for recommendations of people that they have used and liked in the past.

Not to my knowledge, but I prefer any supports to cross the I-beam compared to running parallel to the beam.

It can, but if you are raising only places that have sunk down you should be OK.

No.

The number of supports is determined by the manufacturer when designing the home. It typically works out having support on each end of each frame, then another support every 8'. If your home is 50' long, it will require less support then if the home is 70' long.