Q&A for How to Maintain a Tractor

Most of these maintenance needs are best done once a year, as part of a thorough go over. However, check the oil regularly and change when black. Also check belts etc., and hydraulics on a regular basis.

Lower any 3-point implement. Rotate your front-end loader so the bucket faces down, keeping water out. Before dropping front and rear implements, place wood blocks down to keep those implements off the ground (your goal is to prevent rust). If you can't park under cover, cover the tractor with a large tarp. This will protect the tires from sun, and protect the dash, seat and the hydraulic pistons. When engine is turned off, jiggle the front loader control to release pressure and settle the front wheels down. Make sure the 3-point items are dropped, too. Finally, turn off your gas filter valve, and set the parking brake and latch or block your clutch pedal down.

Greasing axle pivots, 3 pt. systems, and loaders. Check air filters regularly. Do preventive maintenance monthly and weekly.

Replace it immediately. Cracks can cause the wear to continue faster and will cause damage to other parts.

If you have a "hydrostatic drive", low transmission fluid (it may get worse on a hill or slope). Also, overheated fluid, or water-contaminated fluid. If it is not a transmission fluid problem, something is broken. I assume it would also lurch if you mowed a stump.

On most tractors, the reservoir will be located somewhere in the rear of the tractor, near the three-point hitch and hydraulic connectors. The cap can be slippery and hard to grip, so use a rag when opening and closing it. There should be a dipstick on the end of the cap, marked with the appropriate fill line. If your tractor requires more hydraulic fluid, fill it to the appropriate "add" mark on the dipstick.

Every tractor should have an hour-meter somewhere on the instrument panel or monitor. On older tractors, it may be underneath the hood.

Wear old clothes, have a used oil collection pan, a grease gun, a socket wrench set, some other basic tools (pliers, screwdrivers, adjustable wrench), some disposable rags, a new oil filter, a new air filter, (maybe also a fuel filter), an oil filter wrench, a portable service light or flashlight, a tire pressure gauge, and new oil. Possibly you could need a hoist, a lift, or ramps plus jack stands to get enough room to work underneath safely.

Assuming nothing is broken and you're just getting an oil change, grease fittings filled, air filter change, tire pressure check, battery cable and battery check, fluid levels, and a quick ride test of the brakes and hydraulic system, you're looking at about 90 minutes.

Farm and fleet stores have the parts, maybe even an auto parts store. The rest is specific to your tractor, so search the internet with your model type for a how-to video or written instructions. If you can find a reasonably priced service manual, and parts manual, they can be a big help too. Maybe have a "handy" friend help you and pay them with food/drinks.

Changing the tires on tractors is very hard. You will need to call a professional to change them (there are people who specialize in changing tractor tires).

Keep it painted and store it inside a shed or other building.

The answer will be different for each tractor, but in most applications, all you need to do is disconnect the positive and negative terminals, then release the latch or strap that holds the battery in place. Then insert the new one and connect it.

You'll need to check an application specific manual, but in most applications, there is a clearly marked reservoir near the radiator.

Your hydraulics in your tractor need work. First try to replace the hydraulic fluid. If that doesn't work, check the hydraulic pump. You probably will have to take it to a mechanic who does work on hydraulics.