Q&A for How to Sew a French Seam

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  • Question
    What materials do I need for this?
    Kpoene Kofi-Bruce
    Couture Bridal Designer
    Kpoene Kofi-Bruce is a tailor, couture wedding gown designer, and the Creative Director of Mignonette Bridal and Ette the Wedding Tailor in Chicago, Illinois. With nearly two decades of experience as a wedding gown designer, small business owner, and vintage sewing enthusiast, Kpoene specializes in wedding gown design and the social history of wedding dresses. She received a BA in Creative Writing from Middlebury College and studied the business of fashion at the Fashion Institute of Technology. She is also a graduate of the Goldman Sachs 10KSB program and the Chicago Fashion Incubator and has written about wedding fashion for Jezebel, Catalyst, the Sun Times, and XO Jane.
    Couture Bridal Designer
    Expert Answer
    You'll need an iron, a pair of small, very sharp scissors, a cutting surface, and a sewing machine.
  • Question
    How do you line up the fabric in a French seam?
    Kpoene Kofi-Bruce
    Couture Bridal Designer
    Kpoene Kofi-Bruce is a tailor, couture wedding gown designer, and the Creative Director of Mignonette Bridal and Ette the Wedding Tailor in Chicago, Illinois. With nearly two decades of experience as a wedding gown designer, small business owner, and vintage sewing enthusiast, Kpoene specializes in wedding gown design and the social history of wedding dresses. She received a BA in Creative Writing from Middlebury College and studied the business of fashion at the Fashion Institute of Technology. She is also a graduate of the Goldman Sachs 10KSB program and the Chicago Fashion Incubator and has written about wedding fashion for Jezebel, Catalyst, the Sun Times, and XO Jane.
    Couture Bridal Designer
    Expert Answer
    Start by placing your fabric so the wrong sides are facing each other—you'll sew the first seam on the outside of the garment. Then, trim away the seam allowance, leaving about 1/8". Fold your fabric together at the seam so what you just sewed is sandwiched between the fabric and the right sides are together, then press along that seam line. Pin it if you need to, sew along the seam line again, then press the seam one more time and you're finished!
  • Question
    What stitches should I use?
    Community Answer
    Sew the seam with a 1/4" seam allowance with the fabric wrong sides together. Flip the fabric to right sides together and sew the seam again with a 3/8" seam allowance, enclosing the raw edges of the first seam.
  • Question
    What are the characteristics of a French seam?
    C. M. Yocom
    Community Answer
    A french seam is used on fine, sheer fabrics to give a beautiful straight finish. It is ideal for silk blouses or lingerie. Unlike other seams, you always begin a french seam by pinning the wrong sides of the fabric together.
  • Question
    What are the advantages of a French seam?
    Community Answer
    The advantage of a French seam with chiffon or any other see-through fabric is that it won't fray, doesn't need overlocking, so you will get a more professional look, and it will be neat inside and out.
  • Question
    How do I put a zipper in a French seam?
    Community Answer
    Open the seam to the length of the zipper, press the seam open, and sew in the zipper. If you're using an invisible zipper, sew it in as usual using the invisible zipper foot for your machine.
  • Question
    What type of sewing machine is pictured?
    Community Answer
    It is a Singer sewing machine.
  • Question
    How can I sew a French seam using my hands?
    Community Answer
    Just follow the above procedures, but using a thread and needle and not a sewing machine. You could also use your initiative for measuring the seam allowance if you don't have a tape.
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