How to Open a Swimming Pool

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Everything you need to get a pool up and running after a long period of unuse
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Swimming is a fun activity, but pools require plenty of maintenance. One part of owning a pool is closing it in the winter to open when the weather improves. Professionals charge up to $300 USD for this service, so you can save money by doing it on your own. It isn’t difficult to do as long as you know how your pool is set up. It needs to be well-cleaned with a working pump. Once you have the water conditioned, you can cool down in crystal-clear water all season long.

Part 1
Part 1 of 3:

Removing and Storing the Pool Cover

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  1. A push broom is the best option since it allows you to shove the debris toward one edge of the pool without scratching up the cover. Try using a pool brush if you have one. You could also use some other tools to eliminate stubborn debris, such as a leaf blower for a relatively dry cover. Use the leaf blower to force debris to the side where you can sweep it up.
    • If your pool cover has more than 1 in (2.5 cm) of water on it, scoop up debris with a pool rake. A pool rake isn’t actually a rake. It’s a scooping net meant for collecting leaves and other debris.
  2. A cover pump is similar to a regular pool pump, but it sits on top of the cover to clear it of water. Place it where the water is deepest, usually in the center of the cover. You can use a push broom to get it into position. Activate it to let it drain the water. [1]
    • The pump plugs into an electrical outlet like any other pumps your pool uses. Attach a garden hose to the other opening on the pump so it can siphon water back to an area of safe drainage, such as a nearby bucket.
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  3. Pool covers tend to be big and difficult to lift on your own, so ask for help if it’s available. Have each person stand near one of the pool’s edges so you can lift the cover. Keep it in the air so it doesn’t get dragged across any rough spots that could tear it. After finding a safe spot for it, spread it out on the ground.
    • Note that if you have a mesh cover, it has to be detached from its retaining springs through the installation tool that came with it. Then, use a 1 ⁄ 4  in (0.64 cm) hex key to lower the holding anchors, preventing the cover from getting caught on them.
    • While you have the cover spread out on the ground, inspect it for damage. Replace it if you notice any tears. At least you will save some time by not having to clean and store the old cover!
    • If you move the cover onto your lawn, don’t keep it there for a long time. It can damage the grass.
  4. Sweep or spray away any debris still left on the cover. The amount of soap and water you need will vary depending on the cover’s size and how dirty it is. For example, mix together 2 tablespoons (30 mL) of a mild liquid detergent and 1 US gal (3.8 L) water. Then, scrub the entire cover clean with a soft-bristle broom or pool brush. [2]
    • You can use dish soap, pool cover cleaner, or even car wash soap for the detergent.
    • Scrub the cover gently to avoid damaging it. Avoid using harsh chemicals or sharp tools.
    • Spend extra time tackling any tough stains you notice. You may need to scrub them by hand with a soft cloth.
  5. Wash it free of any soap you used during the cleaning process. Simply spray it with a garden hose. To dry it right away, wipe it down with some towels or use a leaf blower to speed up the process. The cover will also dry off on its own when it is left out in sunlight.
    • If you leave the cover to dry on its own, it can take 30 minutes to 1 hour. The drying time will vary depending on the amount of moisture and the weather conditions in your area.
    • Make sure the cover is dry before you store it. If it’s still wet, mold or mildew could grow on it.
  6. Note the seams in the cover. Fold the cover repeatedly from seam to seam until it is small and easy to store in a secure location. To keep the cover protected in storage, put it in a pool cover bag or a plastic container well-sealed with a lid. [3]
    • Many owners move their pool covers into an open spot like a shed or garage. If your cover isn’t in a sealed container, mice and other destructive creatures could settle in it.
    • Don’t leave the cover outside for too long. It could harm your lawn or get damaged. Try to put it away as soon as it finishes drying.
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Part 2
Part 2 of 3:

Reactivating the Water Circulation System

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  1. The pump, filter, heater, and other devices are all outside the pool. Before reconnecting them, inspect them for cracks. Each piece of equipment will have black, rubber O-rings on the pipes and drain plugs. After removing the old rings, simply slide the new ones in place over the valves or connecting pipes. Spread a pool gasket lubricant on them to keep them safe. [4]
    • New O-rings are available online, at hardware stores, or any other place that carries plumbing supplies.
    • Note the position of any O-rings and plugs so you can keep an eye out for leaks that need to be repaired.
  2. Connect the pump, filter, heater, cleaners, and any other hardware responsible for managing the water supply. Plug the pump pipe into the filter housing, using plumber’s tape to prevent leaks. The skimmer connects to the pool pump, which connects to the filter. The filter connects to the heater, chlorinator, and any additional equipment you may have. [5]
    • If you don’t have any extra equipment to attach to the filter, run the filter’s hose to the pump’s return inlet valve.
    • If you have an above-ground pool, use flexible plumbing lines to connect the skimmer to the pump and other equipment.
    • If you didn’t winterize your pool, you won’t need to deal with the equipment very much. Skip to reactivating the pump and conditioning the water.
  3. If you put antifreeze into the water line to protect it during the winter, drain it out before removing the winterizing plugs. Make sure the controlling valve on the pump is set to waste. Activate the pump, letting it run for at least 1 minute. Most of the antifreeze will drain out, leaving plenty of room for pool water. [6]
    • If the pump doesn’t come on, check its wiring. Head to the nearby circuit breaker controlling the pump’s electrical supply and make sure it is on.
    • Pool antifreeze isn’t harmful, so you don’t need to worry if some of it leaks into the pool. Running the pump for a few cycles later will also pump out the antifreeze.
  4. If you installed the plugs when you closed the pool for winter, check the water line leading from the pool to the pump. The plugs are caps that fit on the outflow valves. Turn the wing nuts counterclockwise to detach the plugs from the water lines, then replace them with regular pool drain plugs. [7]
    • The pump and filter unit will each have at least 1 drain plug. Heaters and any other external plumbing hardware you have also has plugs. If you have an in-ground pool with water jets, you may also have plugs on the jets.
    • You may also have put an ice compensator in the water to prevent it from freezing. Store-bought compensators look like blue pillows filled with air. Remove the compensator and set it aside.
  5. Take care of ladders, diving boards, rails, more before reactivating the pump. These components attach to the pool through a series of bolts. Fit them where they normally go, then add the metal bolts, turning them clockwise until they are locked in place. [8]
    • This is a good time to inspect the bolts and other metal components for rust. If they look damaged, replace them before reinstalling the accessories.
    • The accessory bolts are prone to rusting, so consider treating them all with an oil-based lubricant like WD-40 or petroleum jelly. Coat them lightly before installing them. Use a terry cloth to wipe away any excess lubricant.
  6. Even a well-covered pool loses a little bit of water to evaporation. Before running the pump, bring the water back to its normal level. Use a hose to spray water directly into the pool until it is refilled with the water about halfway up the skimmer basket on the side wall. [9]
    • Always refill the pool before turning on the pump or treating the water. The fresh water throws off the chemical balance , so doing it now will save you from having to test the water a second time.
  7. Walk to the outflow valves on the pump and water line. Turn the pump valves counterclockwise to open them. If your pump has a filter valve, set it to the filter position as labeled on the device. Then, check the water line for air bleed valves that need to be opened as well. [10]
    • If your system has bleed valves, you will see them sticking out of the top of the pipe. Turn the caps counterclockwise to let air out of the pipe. These valves will spray air and water after you activate the pump.
  8. Walk over to the circuit breaker wired to the pool pump. Make sure it is turned on. Then, activate the pump for at least 3 minutes while watching the system for any problems. Inspect the plumbing for leaks and look for the air bleed valves to release air and water from the line. [11]
    • If the pump doesn’t seem to be running very well, shut it off and open the filter basket. Spray the filter with fresh water from a garden hose. You may need to prime the filter this way a few times to get it working.
    • If you have time, let the pump circulate water for 2 or 3 hours. Give it plenty of time to get back into working order.
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Part 3
Part 3 of 3:

Conditioning the Water

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  1. Metal may have seeped into the water while it was stagnating over the winter. To protect your health, purchase a quality metal sequestrant from a pool supply store. Add about 0.26 US gal (0.98 L) for every 20,000 US gal (76,000 L) of water your pool holds. Let the pump circulate water for about 2 hours after you finish treating it. [12]
    • If you’re unsure about the metal levels in the pool, get testing strips that test for elements like copper. The strips will turn colors when they detect metal. If the level is higher than recommended, add some of the sequestrant.
  2. The normal way to test pool water is to collect a small water sample in a glass and then dip a multipurpose testing strip into it. The submerged strip changes colors as it detects the properties of the water. Compare the results to the color guide included with your kit. Most test strips have separate sections for alkalinity, pH, calcium, and other factors affecting the water quality. [13]
    • Since your pool has been dormant, consider taking a sample to a pool supply store. Most places offer free tests and can give you recommendations on what you need to do next.
  3. Alkalinity measures certain substances that exist in water and have a strong effect on the pH. It can be treated by pouring different pool chemicals into the water. Add dry or muriatic acid to lower the alkalinity. Use baking soda to raise it. [14]
    • When the alkalinity is off, the pool water may look cloudy. Low alkalinity causes scaling on the pool walls. High alkalinity leads to stains and corrosion.
  4. Changing the alkalinity will most likely bring the pH close to the correct range. The pH determines how acidic the water is, and the wrong pH level can irritate your skin and prevent your pool from staying clean. If it still needs adjusting, use more muriatic acid to raise it or soda ash to lower it. [15]
    • A low pH level leads to corroded pipes and colored stains. A high pH level can leave stains on pool equipment and encourage bacteria and algae growth.
  5. Calcium hardness is a measurement of how soft or hard your water is. Hard water has a lot of calcium and other elements that can cloud water. Use a chemical called a flocculant from a pool supply store to lower the calcium. If you need to raise it, add a hardness increasing chemical. [16]
    • Chlorine shock also helps raise the calcium hardness level. You will have a chance to add shock later, so you may wish to wait to treat the water if the calcium level is close to 150 ppm.
    • If the water is low in calcium, it stain and abrades the pool liner. If it is high in calcium, it looks cloudy and scaly.
  6. Take the opportunity to clear out the remaining debris while the pump circulates the treatments you added to the water. Use a net to scoop up leaves and other big debris at the bottom of the pool. Then, use a pool vacuum to sweep debris off the pool floor. Finish up with a pool brush to scrub the walls. [17]
    • Cleaning the pool now prepares it to receive shock treatment, creating the perfect water conditions for swimming. Any sediment you stir up will get filtered out through the pump.
    • Pay extra attention to the pool accessories and recesses around them. Debris often settles there and can be hard to remove.
    • Vacuuming your pool can really improve the color of the water. If you don't have a vacuum on hand, you can get one for less than $200.
  7. Chlorine shock eliminates bacteria and other remaining contaminants. Before handling the shock, put on rubber gloves and goggles for protection. Then, pour in about 2 lb (0.91 kg) of shock for every 20,000 US gal (76,000 L) of water your pool holds. Add it directly to the water, scattering it as you walk around the edge of the pool. [18]
    • You can also fill a bucket with pool water and mix the shock into it. If you do it this way, make sure you reserve the bucket for the brand of shock you buy. Shock is very strong and can even explode if you mix different brands.
  8. Leave the pool pump and filter systems active. As long as they are working the way they should, they will mix the conditioning chemicals into the water while also separating out bacteria and debris. Check the next day for clear water to enjoy when you inaugurate your pool with the first swim of the season. [19]
    • If the water still looks cloudy, you may need to let it circulate for a little longer. You could also purchase a water clarifier to clear it up faster.
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Community Q&A

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  • Question
    How do I clean the filter on a pool?
    Community Answer
    Some filters are not meant to be cleaned. Pleated paper filters should be replaced. If you have a sand filter, try this article: how to vacuum your pool and backwash the filter .
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  • Question
    What can I do if water is bubbling when turning on the pump?
    Community Answer
    You have air coming into the system somewhere. Start from the pump inlet and tighten everything you can, Connections that need screwing in are often the culprits, so make sure those are completely screwed in. Then make sure any clamps are are also tightened. Continue, working backward from the pump to the water inlet.
    Thanks! We're glad this was helpful.
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  • Question
    I had my pool professionally opened this year, and after a week of shocking and algaecide, it's still green. How can I fix this issue myself?
    Community Answer
    The pH needs to be corrected in order for the shock to work accurately. The filter needs to run almost constantly and be backwashed often. The algae causing the green color are small and after successfully shocking, you may want to waste the water you've vacuumed. If you try this, first fill your pool much higher than normal since you'll be wasting the water.
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      Tips

      • The day you open your pool is the best day for inspections. Always look for worn-out parts to replace right away so you don’t have to waste time uninstalling them later.
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      • Keep your pool clean! When your pool is clean, components last longer and you save money by not having to replace them all the time.
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      • Water conditioning is a very important part of keeping a pool functional. Take time to get the water right and test it at least once a week.
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      Warnings

      • Chlorine shock is toxic when handled, so wear gloves and safety glasses when adding it to your pool. It can also explode, so don’t ever use the same bucket to mix different types of shock.
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      Things You’ll Need

      • Soft-bristled push broom or pool brush
      • Skimmer net
      • Pool vacuum
      • Pool cover pump
      • Chemical testing kit
      • Mild dish detergent or alternative soap
      • Chlorine shock
      • Cover storage bag or container
      • WD-40 or alternative lubricant
      • Silicone pool gasket lubricant
      • Plumber’s tape
      • Garden hose
      • Rubber gloves
      • Safety goggles

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      References

      1. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HfecJ6IMWRg&feature=youtu.be&t=33
      2. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D25VEvVDOig&feature=youtu.be&t=43
      3. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D25VEvVDOig&feature=youtu.be&t=76
      4. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yv9wiy5reTY&feature=youtu.be&t=46
      5. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGNdATRST4U&feature=youtu.be&t=306
      6. ↑ https://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-close-a-pool/
      7. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X22a7vASHsg&feature=youtu.be&t=319
      8. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xdSVGLKnaJ8&feature=youtu.be&t=128
      9. ↑ http://www.maintainyourpool.com/how-to-open-a-swimming-pool.html
      1. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5e5du6aGm98&feature=youtu.be&t=60
      2. ↑ http://www.maintainyourpool.com/how-to-open-a-swimming-pool.html
      3. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_f7DQgbmmr0&feature=youtu.be&t=161
      4. ↑ https://www.familyhandyman.com/cleaning/pool-school-maintenance-basics-101/
      5. ↑ https://www.familyhandyman.com/cleaning/pool-school-maintenance-basics-101/
      6. ↑ https://www.familyhandyman.com/cleaning/pool-school-maintenance-basics-101/
      7. ↑ https://www.bobvila.com/articles/swimming-pool-maintenance/
      8. ↑ http://www.maintainyourpool.com/how-to-open-a-swimming-pool.html
      9. ↑ https://www.bobvila.com/articles/opening-swimming-pool/
      10. ↑ http://www.maintainyourpool.com/how-to-open-a-swimming-pool.html

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