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A guide to harvesting, germinating, and planting plum seeds
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The next time you’re enjoying a juicy plum, consider using its pit to grow your own plum tree! It’ll take several years before your tree can produce fruit, but it can be a really fun way to try your hand at a new type of gardening. Harvest the seed from the plum’s pit and let it germinate in the fridge over the winter. In the spring, plant the seed in well-draining soil and give it lots of sunlight. Read on to learn more about how to germinate a plum seed and grow your own plum tree!

Growing a Plum Tree from Seed

  1. Cover the plum seeds in a damp paper towel.
  2. Place the paper towel in a plastic bag.
  3. Store the plastic bag in your fridge for 2 to 12 weeks.
  4. Plant the seeds 1-in (2.5 cm) deep in a pot once they grow roots.
  5. Water the seeds and keep them in a warm, bright location.
Section 1 of 4:

Harvesting Plum Seeds

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  1. Late summer (around August) is the best month to enjoy plums and remove their seeds. [1] Look for plums that are deep purple and slightly soft to the touch. If the plum is still rock-hard, it isn’t ripe yet. [2]
    • If you want to ripen a plum faster, leave it on the counter next to a banana. The banana produces ethylene, which will speed up the plum’s ripening process.

    Tip: Use the seeds from at least 3-4 plums for the best chance at a successful plum tree. Sometimes the seeds won’t germinate, so the more you use, the better your chances!

  2. The easiest way to do this is to simply eat the plum ! Feel free to cut away the meat of the plum with a knife if you prefer; just make sure that you remove the majority of the plum’s flesh from its center pit. [3]
    • Use the plums to make delicious recipes, like plum cake, if you don’t want to eat them raw.
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  3. A dry pit is much easier to crack than a moist one. Put the pits on a paper towel and set them off to the side somewhere they won’t be disturbed. [4]
    • The sunnier the windowsill, the faster the pits will dry out.
    • You can try to germinate the plum pits without removing the seeds first, but most people have better success when they dry out the pits and harvest the seeds.
  4. Once the pits are dry to the touch, gently tap them with a small hammer or squeeze them with a nutcracker to break them open. Inside each pit is a small seed shaped like an almond. Remove them from the pits and set them to the side. [5]
    • Go ahead and discard the pits or add them to a compost pile .
    • Note : Plum seeds do not require scarification. There is no hard coat over the seed that you need to scratch or file in order for the seed to germinate. The seeds only need to be removed from the pits. [6]
  5. Use cold tap water to fill the glass. If the seeds sink, they are viable and have a chance of germinating. If they float, they are not viable, so discard them. [7]
    • Seeds that sink contain important nutrients that help them germinate . Seeds that float don’t have these important nutrients or are damaged, preventing them from germinating.
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Section 2 of 4:

Germinating Seeds

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  1. After testing the seeds for viability, remove them from the glass of water. Wet a sheet of paper towel and wring it out so it's damp but not soaking wet. Lay it out flat on a counter and fold it in half. Then, place the seeds on the bottom half and fold the top half over so they’re completely covered. [8]
    • Using a paper towel to germinate the seeds often produces results much faster than other methods. Instead of waiting a full 12 weeks for roots to sprout, you may start seeing growth after 2 weeks.
    • As an alternative to paper towels, plant specialist Rachel Guffey also recommends “wrapping the seeds in damp sphagnum moss and putting them into an empty strawberry container” or plastic bag “for germination.” Damp sand works, too. [9]

    Try This Instead: If you’d prefer, fill small, lidded plastic or glass containers with well-draining soil. Then place one seed in each container, pushing it down about 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm). Put the lids on the containers and store them in the fridge for 4-12 weeks or until the seeds start to grow roots.

  2. Carefully pick up the paper towel and set it inside a plastic bag. Expel as much excess air from the bag as you can before you close it. [10]
    • Keep the bag flat if you can. This will make it less likely that a seed will slip out from the paper towel.
  3. Check the temperature of your fridge and lower it if it is higher than 40 °F (4 °C). Put the plastic bag somewhere it won’t get squished. [11]
    • Keeping the seeds in the fridge mimics the process that would take place if the plum were to have fallen to the ground after the summer growing season ended. The plum would break open, and the pit would spend several months in the cold winter earth. This process is called stratification and is necessary for the seeds to sprout roots. So, Guffey says the seeds need cold stratification to germinate indoors.

    Sow the seeds directly into the ground in the fall, if you prefer. Stratifying plum seeds in the fridge is entirely optional. When plum seeds are planted directly in the ground, they’re naturally exposed to cold temperatures that “tell” them it’s time to germinate. Simply select a sunny, well-draining spot in your yard and sow the seed 2 inches (5 cm) deep into the soil. [12]

  4. Depending on the seeds, it can take anywhere from several weeks to several months for roots to appear. Check the seeds every 2 weeks by opening the plastic bag and peeking into the paper towel. The roots will be small and white when they first appear, and they will turn green as they get bigger. [13]
    • Even after the seeds start to root, you can leave them in the fridge. They won’t be ready to be planted in soil or go outside until the springtime.
    • Not every seed will grow roots. If after 12 weeks a seed still doesn’t show any signs of growth, you can throw it out.
  5. When you check the seeds for progress, check the paper towel, too. If it is dry to the touch, carefully remove it from the plastic bag and sprinkle it with water so it gets damp again. Reseal it in the bag and place it back in the fridge. [14]
    • Keep doing this until the springtime when you can transfer the seeds to pots.

    To Change or Not to Change the Paper Towel: If possible, avoid moving the seeds from the original paper towel so you don’t disturb any new growth. If you notice that the paper towel is growing mold, use tweezers to carefully move the seeds from that paper towel to a new, slightly damp one.

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Section 3 of 4:

Planting the Seedlings

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  1. Fill a small container with 5-6 inches (13-15 cm) of well-draining soil . You can use a small pot or even plastic cups for your seeds. They don’t need a lot of space at first, so opt for a container with a 4 to 6 in (10 to 15 cm) circumference. This gives each seed enough space to grow for at least 6 months. [15]
    • Look for well-draining soil at your local home and garden store.

    Tip: For the best results, use a container with drainage holes in the bottom. If you’re using a plastic cup, poke holes in the bottom with a knife or pen.

  2. Make a small hole in the center of each container with your finger. Drop a seed into the hole , and then cover it up with soil. Then, water the soil until it is damp to the touch. [16]
    • If you’re concerned about excess water coming out of the bottom of the containers, set them on a drainage plate.
  3. Keep the seedlings indoors until the last threat of frost passes. Then, gradually harden them off to the outdoors before keeping them outside. If you live in a cooler climate, keep the containers in a sheltered area, like a garage or shed, and use a plant light to ensure they get enough sun each day. [17]
    • More than 6 hours of sun a day is perfectly fine. They just need that at a minimum to thrive.
    • To harden off the seedlings, expose them to a few hours of partial shade outdoors. Then, gradually increase the time they’re outside and the amount of sun they get each day.
    • Make sure the seedlings stay warm, between 65 to 75° F (18-24° C). If your area isn’t that warm yet, place a heat mat under the pot.
  4. If the containers are outside, rainwater should be enough for the seeds unless there is a dry spell of more than 5 days. If the plants are indoors, check them every 2-3 days to see if they need more water or not. [18]
    • Over the weeks, you should see new green growth break through the soil. Plum trees are pretty hardy, so other than giving them water and sun, there isn’t too much else you have to do other than be patient.
  5. Once the tree has begun to grow several inches tall and the threat of frost is past, feel free to transplant it into your garden in the spring. Simply dig a hole as deep as the container and twice as wide. [19] Or, keep it in its container and repot it every 6 to 12 months, or whenever the spread of its leaves and roots outstretch the perimeter of its current container. [20]
    • Make sure you choose a spot in your garden that gets bright, direct light for at least 6 hours and where the soil is well draining (doesn’t accumulate standing water).
    • Most plum trees start producing fruit after 3-5 years.
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Section 4 of 4:

Caring for Growing Plum Trees

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  1. Add a layer of mulch in a circle around the base of the plum tree that’s 2 to 3 inches (5-7.6 cm) thick and 1 foot (30 cm) wide. Just leave about 2 inches (5 cm) of space between the tree trunk and the mulch . This helps your tree retain moisture and prevents weeds from growing. [21]
    • Placing mulch directly against the tree can encourage fungus and bacteria to grow, which can harm your tree. [22]
  2. During the next spring, apply a plum tree fertilizer or low-nitrogen fertilizer with a 1-1-1 ratio of nitrogen to phosphorus to potassium. Apply the fertilizer after the last frost so the trees can absorb the nutrients before they enter the growing season. [23]
    • Always wear gloves when working with fertilizer and follow the directions to mix and disperse it properly. Some fertilizers need to be diluted with water and sprayed around the roots of the trees, while others get sprinkled over the ground dry.
    • Note: Do not fertilize your prune tree during its first year. Applying fertilizer can prevent its roots from growing properly, which can affect your tree’s health down the line. [24]
  3. Use sharp, clean pruning shears to remove any dead, diseased, or dying branches. Then, trim off any branches that are crossing or touching. Cut them off at a 45-degree angle where they intersect with the trunk. [25]
    • In general, avoid cutting away any branches until they’re at least 3 years old unless they are obviously diseased or dead.
  4. Exposure to freezing temperatures in the fall, winter, and spring can damage your plum tree’s trunk and branches and prevent it from producing fruit. Before the first frost in your area, paint the trunk with a 50/50 mixture of white latex paint and water. [26] Or, wrap the trunk with a trunk protector (paper or plastic). [27]
    • Painting the trunk white helps reflect sunlight, which prevents the bark from fluctuating in temperature and cracking.
    • Repaint the trunk about every 2 years.
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Community Q&A

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  • Question
    Can these be planted straight out of the pits?
    Community Answer
    Not nearly as successfully. Leave it half-covered in water until roots have emerged, then proceed to plant it, leaving it close to the surface.
  • Question
    My plum tree is in a pot and 1 foot high. Should I now plant it in the garden?.
    Community Answer
    Yes, it will need to go there soon anyway. As long as it is big enough to survive the winter, you'll be fine.
  • Question
    Can plum seeds be planted in tropical countries where there isn't really a winter?
    Community Answer
    You can plant them and they might grow, but plums and other stone fruits require the cold to activate the enzymes needed for the seed to sprout. The trees also require a period of cold dormancy in order to set fruit. The tree might survive for a year, maybe two, then die.
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      Tips

      • While planting a plum seed will produce a plum tree, the tree may be different from the plum seed it came from. Most commercial plum trees are grafted onto the roots of a mother plant. So, the plum tree you grow from seed may produce a different type of plum, which might taste better, worse, or even be inedible. [28]
      • If you don’t have success with the plum seed, you could always try planting a plum tree that is already established.
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      Things You’ll Need

      Harvesting the Plum Seeds

      • Plums
      • Knife (optional)
      • Small hammer or nutcracker
      • Glass of water

      Germinating the Seeds

      • Paper towels
      • Resealable plastic bag

      Planting the Seedlings

      Caring for Growing Plum Trees

      About This Article

      Article Summary X

      To plant a plum seed, all you'll need is a plum pit, a small hammer, paper towels, a resealable plastic bag, and soil. First, harvest the pit from the center of a plum. Leave it to dry on a windowsill for 3 to 4 days so that it’s easier to crack open. Then, use a small hammer or nutcracker to break open the pit and remove the seed. Wrap the seed in a wet paper towel. Store the paper towel inside a resealable plastic bag and keep this in the refrigerator for 2 to 12 weeks, until the seed has grown roots. When the seed has germinated, plant it 2 inches deep in the soil. Water the seed every 5 days to help it thrive. For more information on planting a plum seed, like how to transplant the seed to a bigger pot, read on!

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      • Leslie P.

        Sep 10, 2023

        "I wanted to know how to grow a plum tree from scratch because I had the best plum ever and wanted to grow a tree, ..." more
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