Q&A for How to Care for Cattle

No and no. Definitely no medication unless the cow is actually sick, and the same kind of feed that she'd get if she were not pregnant or suckling a calf. Be mindful, though, that a cow that is in mid-pregnancy and not suckling a calf (or "dry") doesn't need as much protein and energy as if she were in late pregnancy, or lactating. When a dry pregnant cow is in her second trimester and needing to gain or lose some weight, that's typically the best time to do it. Add straw to her ration if she needs to lose some or maintain weight. To get her gaining, feed with a good source of energy, like grain or beet pulp or something similar, to be fed along with her usual diet of grass and/or hay.

Same type of food you'd feed any other cow: pasture forage, hay, silage, grain, etc. You may want to give something fancy to your cow, but your cow, quite honestly, wouldn't care. All she cares about is having good food and a comfortable place to stay and live.

I'm assuming you're referring to the calf as the heifer. The heifer won't be bred until she's at least 15 months old, though some folks like to give the heifer more time to grow before breeding her, such as not until she's almost 2 years old. A calf can stay on her mama for 6 months or up to 10 months old. When to wean depends on the cow, really, not so much the calf. A calf's most critical period for needing milk is up to 3 months old. A cow that is losing weight from producing milk for a growing calf older than 3 months is one that may need weaning. If that's not the case, then wean at any time you feel.

As much land as you can afford to buy. It's best to start small, and work your way up from there. For example, start with 10 or 20 acres, then go from there.

Is she bred to have a calf? Are you wanting her to breed to have a calf every year? If you answered yes to both questions, then you need to milk her until she's two months to her expected due date. So that means milking her for 10 months, having her "dry" for two, then milking her again after calving. If you're asking about life span, milk her as long as you want to and as long as she is deemed productive.

Contact your cow-savvy neighbur and the local sheriff department to let them know that your cow got loose. The neighbor, who should have a livestock trailer, should help you herd the animal in to the trailer and bring her back to your place. The sheriff will be tasked to make sure things go smoothly and nobody gets hurt or in the way of you and your neighbor in getting your cow back home. The sheriff may also ask you to make sure your fences are in better repair to ensure she isn't as likely to get out next time.

Ask yourself if you really need a cow. The bull will find a way to get that cow bred whether you asked for it or not. The only thing that might keep the bull away is really solid fencing for that bull, like tall, steel corral fencing with no way for the bull to go through, over, or under that fence. If the place you're keeping her cannot or will not change fencing for the purpose of keeping your cow unbred, then it's time to rethink the possibility of having a cow in the first place. Goats or sheep maybe your better options instead.

Any age; a female mature bovine can be ready to be slaughtered for meat anytime you want. But if you're referring to a "cow" as in a younger bovine, 24 to 30 months of age has been considered the best time to slaughter a heifer or steer for meat, particularly if it's been finished on mostly good grass.

For starters, it really helps to work with an experienced livestock veterinarian who can get to know your particular herd of cattle and their health needs. Talk with your vet about setting a vaccination schedule. If you plan on raising calves, then your vet will likely want to attend and monitor any pregnant cows as well.

Yes, they do get nutrients and sustenance from the grass in a pasture setting. And, different types of grasses provide different nutrient types and levels. That is one reason why it is a good idea to rotate your cattle between various paddocks, so that they eat a variety of grasses over the course of a day.

Yes, you can. The "should you" depends on whether you need to sell them or not. Do you have too many animals to feed? Are you trying to downsize your herd? Do you have too many males in the herd, too many females, or culls? Is the market right for selling? Do you have people who are willing to purchase one or more of your stock? Check your context before you decide whether you should or not.

Yes, it is possible. Make sure you have good fencing and enough pasture or feed available for the entire week that you're gone. Water access is even more important. Also, have one or more trusted neighbours look in on them once in a while during the week and check on the water, just in case.

Yes, you can. A bull is only needed for breeding purposes. If you have a tiny herd and only need a bull once a year, then you don't need a bull with your cows.

Please consult your veterinarian ASAP. There are various types of mange and not all treatments address all types of mange. Your veterinarian will be able to give you the medication you need to clear it up.

Depends if you have dairy cattle or beef cattle. The breeding cycle is very simple with beef cattle because you have only one breeding season you get to choose. With dairy cattle, it's more tricky because you're interspacing cows to breed at different times of the year with each other. Having a breeding chart where you can record the time when cows were bred and when they're going to calve is going to be very handy if you have dairy cows. Figure on 9 months to calving after breeding, then two or three months break before next breeding. Then go from there. But get that breeding chart. It'll save you a lot!