Q&A for How to Sew a Hem

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Should I make hem stitches loose or tight?

David Pew
Professional Tailor
David Pew is a Professional Tailor based in Seattle, Washington. He owns his own tailoring business, Sew Generously, which he founded in 2013. With over 15 years of experience, David specializes in bespoke tailoring and alterations. He uses his experiences, skills, and eye for detail to produce the highest quality of products. David believes in creating garments with the finest materials that are built to last, and is a dedicated craftsman. Through Sew Generously’s website, David runs a blog, Stitching Confidential, where he writes on different topics in the tailoring, fashion, and art worlds. The business also hosts Sew Generously Galleries, quarterly art shows where they invite local artists to display their art, host workshops, and perform for the community at their shop. David received a BA in German and French from Western Washington University.

David Pew

Professional Tailor

Expert Answer

Always make your hem stitches loose. If you make them tight, your pants will look puckered at the bottom.

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Question

What is the best stitch for hemming?

David Pew
Professional Tailor
David Pew is a Professional Tailor based in Seattle, Washington. He owns his own tailoring business, Sew Generously, which he founded in 2013. With over 15 years of experience, David specializes in bespoke tailoring and alterations. He uses his experiences, skills, and eye for detail to produce the highest quality of products. David believes in creating garments with the finest materials that are built to last, and is a dedicated craftsman. Through Sew Generously’s website, David runs a blog, Stitching Confidential, where he writes on different topics in the tailoring, fashion, and art worlds. The business also hosts Sew Generously Galleries, quarterly art shows where they invite local artists to display their art, host workshops, and perform for the community at their shop. David received a BA in German and French from Western Washington University.

David Pew

Professional Tailor

Expert Answer

Use a blind stitch so you're just catching one little thread of the outside fabric each time. Also, it's very important to keep those stitches relaxed. If they're tight, they're going to show, and it will look bad.

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Question

Should I hem all the sides of a piece of fabric?

T. Chinsen

Top Answerer

All sides of a hem need to be sewn on a garment. Not sewing all the way around can cause the hem to fall out and get caught or snagged.

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Question

How many centimetres from the bottom should you sew your hem?

Leah Hoeppner

Community Answer

Around 5/8 of an inch, or 1 1/2 centimeters.

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Question

What are two factors that determines the type of hemming used?

T. Chinsen

Top Answerer

The weight of the fabric and the depth of the hem will determine the type of hemming. A heavy fabric and a deep hem will both require adequate stitching to keep the hem in place.

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Question

For pants, how high from the floor should the hem be measured?

T. Chinsen

Top Answerer

Pants hems are usually set at the top of the front part of the shoe with which it will be worn. Any length that will not catch under foot will work.

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Question

Can you give out standard measurements for sewing shorts for boys who are aged from 6 up to 14 years?

T. Chinsen

Top Answerer

After the initial ⅝-inch (1.5 cm), a second fold of 1" (2.5 cm) is the minimum hem. The height of the hem is also a matter of preference of the person wearing them.

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Question

Should all of the fabrics be pre-washed before cutting a pattern or putting in a hem?

Community Answer

All of the edges should be finished first by the way of zig-zag or serging, then washed. Also, make sure that all of the wrinkles are pressed or ironed out before cutting.

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