The Ultimate Guide to Grading Comic Books

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Determine the quality of your cover & pages in this simple guide
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The market value of comic books is partly determined by a grading process. This grading process details the exact condition and completeness of a comic, allowing the seller to get an idea of how much it is worth. While there is a certain amount of subjectivity to this process, a reasonably accurate grade can be assigned by a careful amateur.

Things You Should Know

  • Inspect the cover cover closely, looking for creases, water damage, and color fading. Then, check the spine for folding and tears.
  • Count the pages to make sure none are missing. Look for damage on the pages, like tearing, creasing, and discoloration.
  • Assign a 9-10 score to comics with no obvious wear, 5.5-8 if they’re discolored but cared for, 1.5-5 if they’re well-loved but readable, and lower if they’re very worn.
Part 1
Part 1 of 3:

Examining the Cover and Spine

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  1. When grading a comic book, the first thing you'll see is the cover. Take a close look, ideally with a magnifying glass, and make careful notes of any apparent damage, including: [1]
    • Bends, folds, or dents that warp the shape or surface of the book, but don't affect the color
    • Coackling, a bubbling effect on the cover usually caused by printing defects
    • Creases, more severe folds that remove ink or otherwise create distortions in the coloring
    • Tears
    • Moisture, water damage, or "foxing" (bacterial or fungal growth on the paper)
    • Fading, lack of gloss, or "dust shadow" (partial exposure to dust or air resulting in uneven fading)
    • Fingerprints, especially those which in which skin oils have led to discoloration of the ink
    • Chew (rodent damage)
    • Writing or other soiling of the cover.
  2. Look for evidence of tape or glue or other attempts to repair the book. These generally have a negative effect on the value. [2]
    • Note that more sophisticated efforts to restore a comic book, such as color restoration or re-glossing are often undetectable by amateur graders (and sometimes even professionals), but can also have a negative effect on value if noticed by a potential buyer. Such restorations should be noted upfront before attempting to sell a comic book. [3]
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  3. Less obvious but equally important to the surface of the cover is the spine of the comic book. Inspect it closely, making note of any of the following: [4]
    • Spine stress/bindery tears, small creases, folds, or tears (under 1/4 inch) running perpendicular to the spine
    • Spine roll, a curvature of the left edge of a comic toward the front or back, caused by folding back each page of the comic as it was read
    • Spine break, spine stress that has become a full tear (usually through multiple pages), typically found near the staples
    • Spine split, a clean, even separation at the fold, usually (but not always) right above or below a staple
  4. The staples themselves must also be inspected closely. Make sure no staples are missing at that the staples are in good condition. [5]
    • Look for signs of rust on the staples, as well as "popped" staples. A popped staple occurs when one side of a cover has torn right next to the staple, but remains attached by the paper beneath the staple. This condition can easily lead to detached staples.
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Part 2
Part 2 of 3:

Assessing Page Quality

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  1. Once you've had chance to thoroughly examine the cover, carefully open the book to examine the pages. For very collectible books, the use of tweezers is recommended to minimize contact with harmful skin oils. Your first step is to count the pages.
    • Make sure there are no missing pages in the comic book. Missing pages severely impact a comic's value. [6]
  2. With older comics, it is common for the center-fold pages (and sometimes other page as well) to become detached from the staples. [7]
    • Make note of how many pages (or "wraps") are detached, either fully or partially.
  3. In addition to damage caused by readers, paper stored improperly can easily degrade. There are several common problems with the pages you should watch out for and make note of: [8] [9]
    • Tears, creases, or cuts (such as clipped coupons)
    • Tape, glue, or other attempts to repair pages
    • Writing or other soil to the pages
    • Water damage, often leading to a stiffness or rippling of the paper
    • Staple migration, a condition that occurs when the rust from staples stains the paper around it
  4. Today's comics are printed on a higher-quality paper that withstands aging reasonably well. With older comics, this is not the case--the quality of the paper is likely to have degraded some from age. [10] [11]
    • Look for discoloration or brittleness. Especially in comics from the 1980s and earlier, the paper can become yellow or tan as it oxidizes, and loses some of it's structural integrity.
    • A certain amount of discoloration is expected and acceptable in very old comics, but the less the better.
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Part 3
Part 3 of 3:

Assigning a Grade

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  1. Comics are graded using both descriptive categories and a 0-10 rating system. If your comic is in flawless or nearly flawless condition, it might merit a grade of "mint" or "near mint." This condition applies to perfectly flat comics with supple paper, a glossy cover, and no obvious wear. [12]
    • "Mint" grades include "Perfect/Gem Mint" (10.0) and "Mint" (9.9). These describe comics that have no detectable imperfections. A 10.0 book is absolutely perfect in every way. Very few comics meet this criteria, even those still sitting on the shelves in a comic store. [13]
    • "Near Mint+/Mint" grades include "Near Mint/Mint" (9.8) and "Near Mint+" (9.6). These grades describe comics that have only the slightest wear. A small number of stress lines and very slight discoloration are acceptable defects. Most people would consider these to be perfect, but the trained eye may notice tiny imperfections.
    • "Near Mint" (9.4) and "Near Mint-" (9.2) describe comics that have minimal stress lines and discoloration. The spine and cover are flat. The cover may have a small amount of surface wear, but the colors are still bright. A 9.4 Near Mint book is the standard condition of a new book sold at a comic store as is considered "new" condition. A 9.2 indicates only the very minor wear, typically a minimal stress mark on the spine (non-color breaking) or other similar marks.
  2. A comic which is well preserved but not "mint" is typically described as "Fine" or "Very Fine." These are comics that have been read and enjoyed, but with care. They may have some discoloration, but pages should still be supple and the cover should still be glossy and attractive.
    • "Very Fine/Near Mint" (9.0), "Very Fine+" (8.5), "Very Fine" (8.0), and "Very Fine-" (7.5) are grades that allow for some wear, as they have typically been read a few times. A few stress lines are acceptable. While the cover can have some wear, it should still retain its original glossiness.
    • "Fine" grades include "Fine/Very Fine" (7.0), "Fine+" (6.5), "Fine" (6.0), and "Fine-" (5.5). These grades describe comics with a fair amount of stress lines and creases. A low number of small tears and missing pieces, usually 1/8 to 1/4 inch (about 3.1 to 6.3 mm) in length is also acceptable at this grade level.
  3. Below "Fine" is the grade of "Good." This is somewhat deceptive, as a grade of "good" is actually not particularly good, but more like average. These are comics that have been well-loved by a reader. Still, books in this condition must be intact and readable.
    • "Very Good" grades include "Very Good/Fine" (5.0), "Very Good+" (4.5), "Very Good" (4.0), and "Very Good-" (3.5). These grades describe a comic that has all of its pages but is noticeably creased, rolled, and scuffed. Missing pieces on the cover can be as large as 1/4 to 1/2 inch (about 6.3 to 12.5 mm).
    • "Good" grades include "Good/Very Good" (3.0), "Good+" (2.5), "Good" (2.0), and "Good-" (1.8). These grades describe comics that are in somewhat worse condition than the "Very Good" grades. The cover may have some missing pieces and the book is generally scuffed, abraded, and faded. Moderate spine split is permissible. The comic still has all of its pages, however.
  4. A "Fair" condition comic is ragged and unattractive. It may have pieces of pages missing that make the story more difficult to follow (e.g. clipped coupons that cut into panels on the reverse side of the page).
    • "Fair" grades include "Fair/Good" (1.5) and "Fair" (1.0). These grades describe comics that are worn and in general disarray. Despite their condition, they still retain all of the pages and most of the covers. These comics may be torn, stained, faded, and brittle.
  5. "Poor" comics are what the name suggests--heavily damaged. They may be defaced, torn, stained, or have missing chunks. "Incomplete" comics are those missing covers or pages. [14]
    • "Poor" (0.5) describes comic books that are missing pages and up to 1/3 of the cover. The comic may be brittle and defaced by other materials such as paint and glue.
    • Some people will not grade a comic missing it's cover, but some give "Incomplete" comics a score between 0.1 and 0.3.
  6. If you have a comic that is extremely rare, you may wish to consider having it graded professionally. This allows you to speak confidently about it's condition in any setting, such as negotiations about pricing.
    • If you plan to have a comic professionally sealed (or "slabbed"), a professional grading is recommended, since any potential buyers will not be able to open the comic and assess it for themselves.
    • Professional graders included the Certified Guarantee Company (CGC) and Professional Grading Experts (PGX).
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Community Q&A

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  • Question
    What grade would it be if I wrote my name on the cover, but the comic condition is good to fair?
    Community Answer
    Probably a "Fair", but I am not certain. It probably still doesn't affect the grade much, so your book is probably in whatever condition without the name.
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  • Question
    I have a slightly rare comic book. The pages are a 9.7,and the front and back are absolutely perfect. If that's the case, what's the grade?
    Gabriel Wolf
    Community Answer
    Rarity doesn't matter in the grading of a comic. A 10.0 means perfect, and is virtually impossible to get, especially in older issues. My guess is that you have something in the higher 9-range.
    Thanks! We're glad this was helpful.
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  • Question
    I have books in great condition but with different degrees of staple rust. How does that affect grading of otherwise mint/near-mint items?
    Ayla DeWeese
    Top Answerer
    Here are some things to consider: (1) The location of the rust can affect the grade. If the rust is limited to the staples and does not bleed onto the cover or interior pages, it may not have as much impact on the grade as rust that affects the appearance of the pages. (2) The severity of the rust can also affect the grade. Light rust that does not affect the structure of the book may result in a slightly lower grade, while heavy rust that affects the staples can significantly lower the grade. (3) If the comic book is rare or highly sought after, even minor rust could impact value. (4) Restoration is typically frowned upon in the community, and a restored book will often receive a lower grade.
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      Tips

      • Another item to consider is the comic being autographed. If the signature can be authenticated, it will typically add to the value of the book. Without a way to authenticate it, many collectors consider the book to be defaced and the writing lowers the grade and value of the book significantly.
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      • Practicing grading with books of various conditions will help you to better see the nuances between, for example, "Fine" and "Very Fine." The more you grade, the more effective a grader you will become.
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      • In addition to the physical condition of a comic, value is determined by its rarity and marketability. Comics that feature a notable artist, popular characters and story lines, or had a limited print run may be worth more to buyers. For example, Action Comics #1 is valuable because it is the first comic to feature Superman and because it is rare to find an original issue most notably because ten cents was a lot of money for most people in 1938, especially right after the great depression.
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      References

      1. ↑ https://www.mycomicshop.com/help/grading
      2. ↑ http://comicspriceguide.com/comic-book-grading
      3. ↑ http://comicspriceguide.com/comic-book-grading
      4. ↑ https://www.mycomicshop.com/help/grading
      5. ↑ https://www.mycomicshop.com/help/grading
      6. ↑ http://comicspriceguide.com/comic-book-grading
      7. ↑ http://comicspriceguide.com/comic-book-grading
      8. ↑ http://comicspriceguide.com/comic-book-grading
      9. ↑ https://www.mycomicshop.com/help/grading
      1. ↑ http://comicspriceguide.com/comic-book-grading
      2. ↑ https://www.mycomicshop.com/help/grading
      3. ↑ http://comicspriceguide.com/comic-book-grading
      4. ↑ http://www.nostomania.com/servlets/com.nostomania.CatPage?name=ComicsGradingMain
      5. ↑ https://www.cbcscomics.com/grades

      About This Article

      Article Summary X

      To grade a comic book, start by examining the cover through a magnifying glass for things like folds or fingerprints. Then, check the spine for small tears or folds, or spine break, which is a tear near the staples. Once you've finished checking the cover, count the pages of the comic to make sure none are missing. Give the comic a "mint" grade if it's flawless," or "fine" if it has been read but well-preserved. If the comic is well-read but still intact, give it a "good" grade. However, if pages are missing or it's unreadable, grade it as "poor." To learn more, including how to avoid getting fingerprints on comic book pages, read on!

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