Q&A for How to Detail a Car

First, use an air freshener that has antibacterial properties. Second, pull out the cabin air filter and hit it with an air gun or bang it against a surface to clean it off. Also spray it with some antibacterial spray.

I use a product called Lightning Fast Stain Remover. Spray that onto a clean, light-colored (so you can see the stain coming off) microfiber towel and blot out the stain.

Use leather cleaner, a horse-hair brush, and a microfiber towel. Work the cleaner into the pores of the leather with the horse-hair brush to release the stain, then wipe off everything with the towel.

Use a latex glove that can be bought at dollar store. Just put them on and wipe away. I have six dogs and I use them all the time. It is a great inexpensive method to use on almost any kind of material, and it works best on cloth.

Porter cable orbital sander/polisher works great. Use a microfiber bonnet on the polishing pad; this seems to do the trick.

Polish, then wax.

Yes, it can. This is called burn through. It can also leave permanent tiny swirl cut marks in the clear coat. This is easily avoided by moving the buffing pad constantly and not holding it in one place for too long.

They may, but all are different. Ask the detailer if they could touch up the minor scratches. They most likely will do this for you.

You will need to buff it out with a micro-fiber cloth. If its still there, try re-waxing the whole panel and letting it completely haze, then buff off.

Yes. You can also apply two coats of polish.

Shampoo the seats, air out the car on a warm sunny day, and always use an air freshener.

Waxing a car can only do it good, but there is no need to over-wax a car. I would recommend waxing and polishing about once or twice every two months. As for waxing right after a paint job, I would be sure to ask the person who painted your car before you do any detailing.

Olive oil can do a great job at removing adhesives. There are also commercial solvents that may work well.

T-cut or any other fine cutting compound such as polish should do the trick. Prepare for lots of buffing. If the parts are plastic, then shallow scratches can be managed with sprays to get them back to how they were.

A clay bar will remove any spots and hardened contaminants from the exterior surface of a car.

Somewhat, but you're best off using a glaze to fill it in. It will make it look new.

I found it most effective to spray a lot of cleaner on first and let it sit for a minute, then to vigorously scrub with a rag. Or you can hold the rag behind the belt and use compressed air to try to blow the dirt off.

Use hot steaming water with a microfiber rag, toothbrush, and rubber restorer.

Detailers commonly charge (around) $80 for a basic clean, and up to $300 for a deep clean detail job.

Is it Rain-X or remnants of a pro acrylic job? For Rain-X or car wash residue: ammonia (be careful and mop on, paper-towel off). For hail damage repair: oven cleaner (mask with green solvent tape from paint store and be mindful of your skin and eyes).

You may have to buff it with car wax again because car waxing can harm the clear coat if it is not properly buffed. Make sure you don't buff it in one place for too long and you should be good.

Try buffing it off with some car wax, just don't wax in one place too long.

Yes. Most all of the car care companies make an all-in-one product, these are for light polishing and a protective sealant that is good for vehicles with only light defects. Pick up an inexpensive Dual Action Polisher (Harbor Freight or Bauer) and you will be set.