Q&A for How to Get Rid of Green Water in a Swimming Pool

It might have to do with the color of your pool! If the inside of your pool is gold, your pool water might look green (since the yellow pool and the blue pool water create a green color).

There's nothing you have done wrong. I would suggest keeping your filter running 24 hours a day so that your water is continuously circulating and your filter is always catching debris. The green color in the water means that there is algae present, and the only thing that will get rid of algae is a sanitizer (chlorine). Sometimes just putting one chlorine tablet just isn't enough chlorine. This means you have to find a way to put in large amounts at once, which is referred to as "shocking" your water. I usually use liquid chlorine to sanitize my water, and then I add two tablets in a floating chlorinator so that I always have chlorine entering the pool.

Run your pool filter, then scrub your tile surfaces. Vacuum and shock your pool afterwards. If sand and debris are still present do a backwash.

Add a Polaris to the system that will do the job for you. It will require an additional pump in most cases, but you can have it run for a shorter period so that it just cleans the pool once a day.

Depending on the size of your pool, add liquid chlorine and leave the pump running for 24 hours. Do a check and take a sample to your pool shop. You can add 5 litres of liquid chlorine to a 35,000-litre pool and still swim without your hair going green, but you may need to add a buffer and stabiliser.

Take care of the algae first and backwash several times. Backwashing will help clean the algae out of the sand filter. Once the algae is gone, then it's safe to change out the sand. There's no point in replacing the sand and then contaminating it with algae.

One gallon of liquid chlorine per 10,000 gallons is a healthy shock, so if you are looking to shock and hit it appropriately, go with 1/2 gallon of liquid chlorine.

The reason your pool is still green is most likely because of metals in the water. When you shocked the water and it stayed green, you oxidized the metals in the water. What you need to do is add some ascorbic acid to the water. Then place some sequestering agent in the water and, finally, a metal eliminator (try CuLator Metal Eliminator).

It is the same as below ground. Every 3-5 years, but if you are handy you can open the filter and clean the sand.

For an above ground pool that is saltwater, the filter sand is supposed to be changed every three to four years.

Do you mean the pool surface is green? If it is, then you must continually scrub it until all surfaces are clean, and then keep the pool at shock level until your pool passes three tests: (1) pool and all surfaces are clean and clear; (2) cc's less than .5 ppm; and (3) you pass what is called an overnight chlorine loss test. In other words, you do not lose FC while the sun is down, meaning their is no organic matter breaking down your chlorine.

Add a lot of Shock. Run your filter for 24 hours and add Shock every 12 hours until the water clears up.

No, you need to put in the chlorine when you see your water turning a different color, like green or brown.

No. Algae is what is causing the green color. Shock the pool and add sometihing to kill the algae.

This in some ways is a loaded question. If you have an area that isn't seeing enough water circulation then that area could see reoccurring algae growth. If however you're seeing a wide spread outbreak of algae then it's almost always a lack of chlorine in your water. I seldom see an under powered pump, but almost always see an under chlorinated pool. Start with your chemistry, then move to equipment.

That it will, but it may be more expensive. The active ingredient in liquid chlorine is sodium hypochlorite. It is commonly sold in strengths of 10% or 12%. This means that roughly 10 - 12% of the bottle of liquid chlorine is actually chlorine, while the rest is mostly water. Household bleach also commonly has an active ingredient of sodium hypochlorite. This, however, is commonly sold at 6.25%, weaker than liquid chlorine, but still able to kill algae. Please note, however, that over the last few years manufactures have started to add an ingredient in household bleach that can cause some foaming in your water. Stay away from ones that may add a scent or are "splashless".

If your water turns a greenish tint when adding chlorine, there's a good chance you may have copper in your water. Do you use an "ionizer" or regular dose of algaecide? If so, that's likely your source of copper.