Q&A for How to Pull an Electric Meter

Yes. On a residential 120/240v meter base (with meter removed), the top 2 are line side, and the bottom 2 are load side. A voltage test across the top 2 jaws will show 240v, and from neutral to each top jaw will show 120v. Consider all 4 jaws alive until proper voltage checks have been done.

If the meter is inside a building, permission would be needed to enter. Many states have laws prohibiting disconnection of utilities from residences in some / all times of the year under certain circumstances (children or elderly residing in the home). Commercial and industrial type buildings would not likely be subject to this type of protection. Keep in mind that the meter itself is the property of the electric company; obtaining a warrant to retrieve it wouldn't likely be difficult. You'd do well to speak to your lawyer for precise advice.

The utility should be notified at once of this problem. The glass serves as transparent insulation from the energized parts of the meter's measuring and indicating mechanisms. It protects people from shock and prevents rain and snow from entering that could result in fire or property loss.

Normally, the customer doesn't do anything to use the meter other than connecting and using electrical appliances. The meter is to enable the utility supplier to determine exactly how much electricity the customer is using (and sometimes even when he's using it) so that they may bill for the usage appropriately. Explaining that the meter should not be blocked or hidden, and should be protected from damage is about all that is needed. The meter is usually the property of the utility company.

The utility normally doesn't charge for this type of work. The only time you might want to do this is if the main or service disconnect circuit breaker needs to be replaced. Otherwise, turn off the main or service disconnect in the panel (or the one feeding this panel) with the faulty breaker. Remove and replace the defective circuit breaker only after testing to be sure the power is off.

Spring clips inside the meter socket enclosure should only be done only after the entire enclosure has been de-energized by the utility.

Something is interfering with the removal of the meter socket. Arcing in the meter socket cabinet may have resulted in the meter contacts becoming fused to the socket contacts. The utility should be contacted to remove the meter/disconnect power at the street so that the meter and service lateral are de-energized. Many meters have a glass enclosure; they should not break under normal circumstances, but may if forced too hard. Cuts from glass and shock, burns or death form contact with energized parts can result if something goes wrong.

It's possible it was rented at one point by 2 tenants, with each paying their own electric bill based on the usage in their part of the house. At one time, many utilities also offered two different rates for residential ratepayers; the "standard" rate and a discounted "off-peak" rate for nighttime hours. This required two meters, one to measure only the power used by the water heater during those "off-peak" hours and the other meter measured the balance. Power companies began to do away with off-peak metering as the costs associated with maintaining the meters, correcting time clocks inside them and the erroneous info captured as a result proved to be excessive. Few (if any) companies offer off-peak metering today.

There may be a poor connection inside the meter trough that is creating a problem with your power. Contact them and let them know what has happened. They can at least tell you if it is something they caused and can fix, or provide you with an idea as to what the problem is.

Very small differences between like meters on the same circuit are often the result of tolerances of the internal components used during manufacturing; they are impossible to avoid because no two things can be exactly alike. You might want to swap location of the two meters to see whether the the high reading meter follows the meter or stays with the location. This would help you determine whether it is a meter issue or if something else is going on. Most utilities change meters at regular intervals for bench testing and calibration. If you suspect erroneous billing due to an inaccurate meter, contact the utility with your concerns.

Power is shut off by the utility most often for non-payment, safety issues or when ordered by your locality's code-enforcement department. You should contact the utility company to determine the reason, make corrections with the group responsible for the order (billing dept, code enforcement, etc.) as required and arrange to have power restored.

Flickering lights may indicate a loose connection anywhere in that particular circuit path. If all lights are flickering or dimming, this can indicate a similar problem at connections in the meter or main breaker in the panel. Oftentimes, a flicker or dimming of lights is associated with a motor that controls a fairly large load that is starting. These loads are often refrigerator/freezer compressors, artesian or point well type pumps, oil burner motors, etc.

As a rule, only the power company can remove or replace a meter. It is their property. Your electrician would know the local laws and would not risk his or her license by violating any of them.