PDF download Download Article
Expert guidance for fixing your bike chain the right way
PDF download Download Article

A bike chain is a collection of links with pins, plates, and rollers that connect your front and back gears, allowing you to pedal. Chains slip off for a variety of reasons, such as improper adjustments and crashes, but they are easy to fix. Your hands might get a little greasy, but you'll be pedaling again in no time. To help break this process down, we spoke with bike shop owner Jonas Jackel to get expert advice on fixing slipped chains (as well as what you can do to prevent them in the future).

How Do You Fix a Chain on a Bike

  1. Note what gear the bike is in and flip it upside down.
  2. Push gently on the rear derailleur to put slack in your chain.
  3. Count the gears to find the proper gear and put the chain on it.
  4. Release the derailleur and spin the pedals to ensure the chain is working.
Section 1 of 5:

Reattaching a Slipped Chain (Fixed Gear Bikes)

PDF download Download Article
  1. If there are any bent or broken pieces, repair or replace these before you reattach the slipped chain. Make sure to examine not just the chain itself but the derailleurs and cassette (which are the gears). This is especially important to do after a crash to make sure that there is no damage. [1]
    • After fixing the bike chain, it is a good idea to inspect the cassette, derailleurs, and limit screws to see if they are properly adjusted or to check if they need replacement.
  2. This will make fixing the chain easier and prevent the bike from rolling around while you work. Flip the bike so that it rests on the seat and handlebars, setting it down gently to prevent scratching or scuffing.
    • Bike stands hold the bike right-side-up in the air and are great for maintenance. However, since most chains slip on the road, you will likely not have access to one. Instead, you may set the front of the seat over a large horizontal pole. Keep the bike about 4 feet (1.2 m) off the ground or at least high enough that the rear wheel is not touching the ground.
    Advertisement
  3. Derailleurs are the small machines on your front and back gears that physically move the chain from gear to gear. Note where it is currently resting by looking down the derailleur—it will be lined up with the gear. You want to put the chain back on this gear.
    • The front derailleur, right next to the pedals, looks like a little metal bracket that hovers over the gear the chain should be on.
    • The rear derailleur, found by the back wheel, looks like a small mechanical arm. This arm slides back and forth underneath the cassette (collection of gears) to move the chain. It will be underneath the right gear.
    • Many bikes will tell you the gear number on the handlebars, but you need to know how to read them to make sense of it:
      • The left hand adjusts your front gears : 1 is the gear closest to the bike, or the smallest gear.
      • The right hand adjusts the back gears : 1 is the gear closest to your bike, which is the biggest gear.
  4. This is the small metal arm next to the cog on the bottom of the derailleur. There is usually a little metal square right next to the cog that lets you push the derailleur without getting too greasy. It should fold gently towards the front of the bike so that the chain hangs with a lot of slack. [2]
  5. Pick up the chain with 2-3 fingers and drape it on top of the appropriate rear gear. Bring the other end of the chain to the bottom of the front gear and hold it there. You should have enough slack to get 10-15 teeth on the gear into the grooves of the chain. Slowly release the derailleur once you have some teeth in place. [3]
    • You can also use a pencil, pen, or small stick to guide the chain onto the gears if you don't want to use your fingers.
  6. As you pedal, you'll notice that the teeth you attached manually will guide the rest of the chain back into place. After the first rotation, pedal forward for 2-3 more rotations to make sure that the chain is securely in place. [4]
    • Make sure you are pedaling the correct direction—the back wheel will move as you pedal forward, but not backward.
  7. Advertisement
Section 2 of 5:

How to Reattach a Single Speed Bike Chain

PDF download Download Article
  1. 1
    Loosen the rear wheel to create slack in the chain. Whether you removed the rear tire to transport the bike and can’t see how to reattach things or you slipped a chain, the process is the same. Start by loosening your tire on the rear axle and push it all the way forward, as far as it will go, in the slot for the rear tire.. [5]
    • If you have a rear tensioner assembly, don’t loosen the wheel itself. Simply use a hex key to loosen the tire.
  2. 2
    Wrap the chain around the gears to put them back on track. With the tire loosened, confirm the chain is secure around the front cog. Then, wrap the remaining length of the chain around the rear cog. It is 100% normal to have a little extra slack in the chain here, so don’t worry—it’s supposed to be loose. [6]
  3. 3
    Re-tighten your rear wheel to secure the chain. Pull the rear wheel back away from the bike until you feel the chain pull taut. While holding the tire in its position, secure the nut on the axle to lock the wheel in place with the tension in the chain. [7]
    • Make fine-tune adjustments by pushing on the chain and tightening the rear nut further. Simply push the chain inward to create artificial slack and then use a wrench to add leverage to the nut and tighten it further.
  4. Advertisement
Section 3 of 5:

How to Fix a Broken Chain

PDF download Download Article
  1. 1
    Get a chain breaker to open and close the chain. Fixing a bike chain that snapped is relatively easy, but you do need a special tool called a chain breaker . If your chain is only bent, you can use pliers to force the links straight, but any other repair will require a chain breaker. [8]
    • If the chain is just bent, use pliers and force the chain straight again.
    • Use the removed pins and the chain breaker to drive a pin through the gap and connect the new chain links.
    • Spin the pedals a few times to confirm the chain is running smoothly around the gears.
  2. 2
    Use the chain breaker to remove the pins near the break. If the chain is fully snapped, set the pin nearest to the snap inside of the chain breaker tool. Apply pressure (or twist the tool) to punch the pin out and remove the broken chain link. Repeat this process on the other nearest broken link.
    • If the chain isn’t fully snapped, you only need to remove the link that is damaged.
  3. 3
    Install the replacement links using your chain breaker. Push the derailleur forward to create artificial slack so that you can connect the chain. Line up your replacement link with the surrounding links and use the chain breaker to insert the pins. Align the chain with the proper gear on your bike and let it slide into place. [9]
    • If you don’t have a replacement link, you can simply connect the existing links with one of your leftover pins. The chain will be shorter than it normally should be, but you’ll be able to use your bike until you get a replacement.
  4. 4
    Spin the pedals a few times to ensure the chain runs smoothly. With the chain resecured, spin the pedals. Let the chain cycle through the drivetrain a few times to get rid of any slipped links or issues. Then, enjoy your bike! [10]
    • If your chain didn’t snap because of physical damage from a collision or something like that, a snap is a sign you need to replace the chain entirely soon.
  5. Advertisement
Section 4 of 5:

Fixing Common Chain Problems

PDF download Download Article
  1. Improper shifting puts a strain on your drivetrain, and your chain can only stretch so far before it slips or potentially breaks. Shifting moves the chain, and if you are cranking on the pedals up a hill this can cause it to miss the teeth of the next gear. [11] Some tips for safe shifting include:
    • Shift before you get to a hill. Don't wait until you can barely pedal to shift. As a general rule of thumb, your feet should always move at the same speed -- you keep shifting to make this possible.
    • Use soft pressure when you shift. Right as you shift, ease up on your feet as if letting go of the gas. You don't want to stop pedaling, you just want less weight on the pedals. Work on timing this with your shift, then resuming normal pedaling. [12]
  2. This is common if, when shifting to one of your "extreme gears" on the far side of either set of gears, the chain keeps going and slips off. Limit screws tell the derailleur to stop moving in one direction, and if the limit is too wide, the chain will keep moving when you shift even though there is no gear to catch it. Both the front and back derailleur have tiny limit screws labeled “H” and “L” for “High” and “Low” limits. [13]
    • Turn the “H” screws clockwise to prevent the chain from moving too far to the right, away from the bike.
    • Turn the “L” screws clockwise to prevent the chain from moving too far to the left and into your wheel in the back or to keep it from falling between the seat tube and chain ring in the front.
    • If you are in the furthest gear, you will see the derailleur moving as you adjust the screws. Make sure it lines up in the middle of the gear.
  3. With age, both chains and cassettes will wear down due to friction, which means the gear teeth cannot lock firmly into place in the chain. To check the chain, use a ruler to measure a 12 in (30 cm) distance between 24 pins in the chain. The pins are the small circles in the middle of the links when you look at the chain from the side. If the twelfth pin is more than 1 16 inch (0.16 cm) off the 1 foot (0.30 m) mark, you need a new chain. [14]
    • It's better to replace a chain with bent or sticking links than to try to replace individual links. Replacing a single link in a chain means the links won't have the same amount of wear, which could be dangerous. If you absolutely must replace a link, make sure it is the same brand as your chain and meant for a bike with the same number of speeds.
    • Replace rusty chains. Jackal explains, “If your chain is really rusty because the bike's been outside, you could inspect it and see if the links are tight and not moving. A stiff link will cause the chain to skip as it goes through the drivetrain. Typically, it will be hard to fix that. It might be worth getting a new chain at that point.” [15]
  4. Cassettes are harder to diagnose and replace than chains, but if you feel like you need a new one, you likely do. If your chain is constantly skipping over gears, sliding off, or slipping as you pedal, you likely need a new cassette . Take your bike to the shop if you aren’t sure whether your cassette needs to be replaced or not. [16]
    • After inspecting the cassette, look at the gears. Do any of them look more visibly worn down than others? If there is a disparity, it is likely time to get a new cassette.
  5. Advertisement
Section 5 of 5:

Bike Chain Cleaning & Maintenance

PDF download Download Article
  1. The drivetrain is the transmission of your bike. It consists of all the parts that get your back wheel moving: chain rings (big gears next to your pedals), a cassette (collection of gears on your back wheel), a rear derailleur (metal arm on the back wheel), and the chain itself. As dirt, grit, and grime collect on your drivetrain, it wears down and becomes prone to skips and slips.
    • Clean every 3-4 months for road bikes, and 2-3 months for mountain bikes. Frequent cleaning and maintenance of your drivetrain can add years to your bike's working lifespan. [17]
    • Turn the bike upside down or clamp it on a bike rack to work on the drive train.
  2. Bio-degreaser , sometimes called biodegradable solvent, is a powerful soap that cuts through grime but won't ruin your chain. If you don't have any, you can use isopropyl alcohol. Pour a little bit on a damp rag and clamp it lightly over the chain with one hand. Use the other hand to pedal the bike, running the chain through your rag for 2-3 cycles. [18]
    • Go through 2-3 cycles putting pressure on the top and bottom of the chain, then another few, putting pressure on the sides.
    • Lightly scrub away any patches of grease or grime with your rag if you still see them.
  3. Just like human teeth, gears need to be flossed from time to time. Dip your bike brush or old toothbrush into the biodegradable solvent or isopropyl alcohol and run it in between each gear as you pedal with the other hand. This removes clumps of grease that can dislodge your chain if they are allowed to get too large. [19]
    • Use a screwdriver to scrape off hard-to-reach areas or precise, small spots. A screwdriver is ideal for getting rid of any grime on the pulleys of the rear derailleur
  4. If it looks dirty then you should get rid of it. Use your damp rag, brush, and a little degreaser to get into as many nooks and crannies as you can and get your bike sparkling clean. Let the bike do the work for you whenever possible, holding the rag/brush in place while spinning the pedals. Common areas to focus on include:
    • Both sides of the idler pulley and jockey pulley wheels, which are the small cogs on the derailleur arm.
    • The back side (closest to the bike) of the chainrings.
    • The bike frame, joints, and hinges near the chain.
  5. If a rag and a toothbrush don't cut it, you'll need a chain cleaning tool . These little boxes clamp over your chain. You add degreaser and hold the tool in place while pedaling the bike backward, allowing it to automatically brush and scrub the chain links for you. They are only $20-$30 and frequently come with degreaser and a brush. [20]
  6. Purchase a bottle of chain lube , which will both lubricate the chain and protect it from dirt and moisture. After cleaning and drying the chain with your rag, slowly turn the pedals. Apply a single drop of lube to every 2-4 links, right on the joint where one link meets another. After you've gone through the whole chain, shift through your gears and apply another 10-12 drops. Jackal explains that this is the best way to prevent unnecessary wear and tear to your chain after cleaning. [21]
    • Use a clean rag to wipe up any excess lube from the chain when you are done, as extra lube can hold dirt and lead to grime.
    • Your goal is to get a light coating of lube on the entire chain.
    • Anytime you ride in the rain, clean the chain, or hear squeaking, you should reapply lube to ensure your chain doesn’t dry out and experience unnecessary wear and tear..
    • Feel the chain with your fingers—if it feels dry, then you need to apply more lube.
  7. Advertisement

Expert Q&A

Search
Add New Question
  • Question
    When I stop pedaling, the chain rollers in back move forward to allow the chain to come off. What should I do?
    Ikaika Cox
    Bicycle Mechanic
    Ikaika Cox is the Shop Director at the Salt Lake City branch Bicycle Collective in Salt Lake City, Utah. He has been a bike mechanic since 2012, beginning as a volunteer with the Provo Bicycle Collective, and growing and honing his skills as a bicycle mechanic and educator in multiple Bicycle Collective locations over the years. He now leads the Salt Lake City branch of the Bicycle Collective.
    Bicycle Mechanic
    Expert Answer
    There could be a number of factors influencing this symptom. Most likely, this is a result of the pawls in your freewheel or freehub body being dirty or corroded. Disassembling and servicing, or even applying lubricant, can assuage this symptom. If lubrication is not the issue, you will likely need a new freewheel or wheel. Occasionally, an improperly reassembled hub can cause this issue. If you recently serviced the axle bearings in your rear wheel, take it back apart and make sure you reassembled it correctly.
  • Question
    Every time I fix a disconnected chain on my BMX - almost every 2 minutes - the chain slips again. What should I do to gix this problem?
    Community Answer
    Check for chain ring (the big gear) and cassette alignment, then check and see how old your chain is. If the bike has seen some use and abuse it is likely in need of a new chain. If you have really neglected maintanence, it is possible that you may need an entirely new drive train.
  • Question
    What if the chain is stuck?
    Community Answer
    1.) Turn the bike upside down or hang it from a bike stand. 2.) Note what gear the bike is in. 3.) Push the rear derailleur arm towards the handle bars to get slack on the chain. 4.) Use your other hand to slide the chain back on the right gear. 5.) Slowly pedal the bike with one hand.
See more answers
Ask a Question
      Advertisement

      Video

      Tips

      Submit a Tip
      All tip submissions are carefully reviewed before being published
      Name
      Please provide your name and last initial
      Thanks for submitting a tip for review!
      Advertisement

      About This Article

      Article Summary X

      To fix a slipped bike chain, first, turn your bike upside down, as this will make it a lot easier to reattach the chain. Once your bike is upside-down, look at the derailleurs, which are the small machines on the front and back gears that move the chain. Note which gear these are on so you can place the chain back in the right place. Then, push the rear derailleur arm toward the handlebars, which will give your chain some slack. With your other hand, slide the chain back onto the right gear and slowly release the derailleur after you have 10 to 15 teeth in place. To get the rest of the chain on, move the bike pedals backward slowly for 1 full rotation. For more help from our Mechanic co-author, like how to avoid common problems that will slip your bike chain, read on.

      Did this summary help you?
      Thanks to all authors for creating a page that has been read 346,507 times.

      Reader Success Stories

      • Aliyahtyler123

        Jul 19, 2017

        "My bike chain recently slipped off, and my parents told me to put it on myself. I had no clue how, so I went to ..." more
        Rated this article:
      Share your story

      Did this article help you?

      Advertisement