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A guide to sprouting seeds from fresh berries
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Strawberries are perennial plants that grow sweet, delicious fruits year after year. These plants are low maintenance and super easy to grow from seeds—all you need is a fresh strawberry. In this article, we’ll show you how to gather seeds from strawberries, germinate them, transplant the seedlings into the ground or containers, and care for your plants so they produce tasty fruit. Read on to learn how!

Things You Should Know

  • Peel the top layer of strawberry skin that contains the seeds. Dry the berry peels in the sun for 2-3 days and then rub off the seeds.
  • Set the seeds in the fridge for 1 month. Then, lay 2-3 seeds in each cell of a seed tray filled with seed starter mix.
  • Place the tray in a sunny spot and set plastic wrap over the top. Then, wait for the seeds to sprout in 1-6 weeks, and transplant them into your garden or pots.
Method 1
Method 1 of 3:

Germinating Strawberry Seeds

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  1. To get strawberry seeds from home-grown or store-bought berries, cut off the top layer of skin containing the tiny, yellow seeds with a knife. Then, lay the peels on a paper towel and dry them in the sun for 2 to 3 days. Simply rub the strawberry skins to loosen the seeds and collect them in a bowl. [1]
    • Most store-bought strawberries are hybrids of several different varieties. The fruit from their seeds tends to be smaller than the berries you buy in the store.
    • If you don’t want to collect your own seeds, use strawberry seed packets .
    • Strawberries come in 3 varieties: June-bearing, everbearing, and day-neutral. June-bearing berries produce a single harvest in mid-summer while everbearing and day-neutrals produce fruit throughout the summer and fall. [2]
    • If you’re growing your strawberries in containers, day-neutral or everbearing are the best options.
  2. The last frost date is typically the last day in spring when your area experiences freezing weather. Starting your seeds 12 to 16 weeks before this date allows your seeds to sprout and be ready for transplanting as soon as the weather is warm. [3]
    • Search for your area’s last frost date online. Or, find the date using a last freeze map if you live in the US.
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  3. In the wild, the cold, winter weather signals to strawberry seeds that it’s almost time to sprout. To mimic this process, which is called cold stratification, pour your seeds into an air-tight storage container. Then, set the container in your fridge for about 1 month. [4]
    • If you’re using a seed packet, simply set the pack in the fridge.
    • For faster cold stratification, freeze the seeds for 2 weeks. [5]
    • Strawberry seeds still germinate if you don’t put them in the fridge. Your seeds might just take longer to sprout.
  4. Thaw the seeds and sow them in trays filled with moist seed starting mix . Take your seeds out of the fridge or freezer and leave them in their container to warm up to room temperature. Then, fill a seed tray with seed starting mix and water the soil. Place 2 to 3 strawberry seeds on top of each cell in the tray and gently press them about 6 mm (0.24 in) into the soil. [6]
  5. To trap in moisture and keep the seeds hydrated, place plastic wrap, a plastic bag, or a sheet of glass over the seed tray. Then, place your seeds in a bright spot indoors, like a windowsill, that gets plenty of sunlight in the morning. [7]
    • If you don’t have a sunny spot in your home, place a grow light 2 inches (5 cm) above the seeds.
    • Strawberry seeds germinate the best at temperatures between 65 to 70° F (18-21° C). If you live in a cooler area, place a heat mat underneath the tray.
  6. It typically takes 1 to 6 weeks for strawberry seeds to germinate and sprout out of the soil. When you see the little green seedlings, take off the plastic cover over the tray. Then, monitor the soil moisture by sticking your finger 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep into the dirt. If the soil is dry, mist the seedlings with water. [8]
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Method 2
Method 2 of 3:

Transplanting Strawberry Seedlings

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  1. Slowly acclimate, or harden off, your strawberry seedlings to outdoor conditions before you plant them in your garden or in containers. Start by setting your seed tray outside in partial sun for 1 hour. Then, gradually increase the amount of sun the seedlings get over the course of 1 week. [9]
    • True leaves are the leaves that grow after the 2 round seed leaves that sprout from the seedling.
    • Hardening off is an important process that prevents your seedlings from being shocked or damaged by outdoor conditions.
  2. Strawberries thrive when they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight. They are also sensitive to moisture and don’t like for their roots to stay wet. So, make sure the sunny spot is also full of sandy loam soil that drains well. [10]
    • Check that your soil drains well by digging a hole that’s 12 in (30 cm) wide and deep. Then, fill the hole with water. If it drains in less than 10 minutes, your soil is well-draining. [11]
    • If your soil doesn’t drain well, add compost , peat moss , or decomposed manure to your planting area.
  3. Test the soil to see if it needs any nutrients. Use a soil testing kit to see if your soil is well-balanced with nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (NPK). If your soil needs adjustments, the test gives you the NPK ratio that your soil needs. Then, add a fertilizer that matches the recommended NPK ratio to the soil. [12]
    • For instance, if your test results recommended an NPK ratio of 3-1-2, use a fertilizer with a 3-1-2 NPK ratio on the label.
    • Many experts advise applying a balanced fertilizer, like 10-10-10 NPK , to the soil before you plant. Just add 1 lb (0.45 kg) of fertilizer for every 100 sq ft (9.3 m 2 ) of plants and work it about 6 to 8 in (15 to 20 cm) into the dirt. [13]
  4. Use your soil testing kit to check the pH of your garden. If the soil pH is very acidic, or below 6.0 pH, spread granular or pulverized agricultural lime over the damp soil about 2 to 3 months before you plant. If the soil pH is very basic, or above 6.5 pH, apply aluminum sulfate or sulfur over your soil instead. [14]
    • The amount of lime, sulfate, or sulfur you need depends on the pH of your soil. Use a pH adjustment graph to find out how much you need.
  5. To give your strawberry plants plenty of space to grow, space them about 12 to 24 inches (30-61 cm) apart, depending on the variety. Just dig a hole deep enough to bury the roots beneath the ground, making sure that the crown, or base of the plant, is not buried. [15]
    • For June-bearing strawberries: space them 12 to 24 in (30-61 cm) apart.
    • For day-neutral strawberries: space them 8 to 12 in (20-30 cm) apart.
    • For everbearing strawberries: space them 12 in (30 cm) apart.
  6. Strawberries grow well in all sorts of containers. Just choose a pot, hanging basket , or window box with drainage holes that’s at least 8 inches (20 cm) wide. Fill the pot with loose, loamy potting soil that’s well-draining. Then, dig a hole in the center that’s deep enough to bury the roots of the plant.
    • Plant a single strawberry plant in each container if you’re using regular pots.
    • Strawberry jar planters and trug planters , which are raised, table-like planters, can hold about 8 strawberry plants in 1 container.
    • Hanging baskets can hold about 6 strawberry plants, while window boxes can hold about 4. [16]
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Method 3
Method 3 of 3:

Strawberry Care & Harvesting

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  1. In general, strawberries need about 1 to 1 ½ inches (2.5-3.8 cm) of water each week. To tell if the soil is dry, poke your finger about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep into the dirt. If it feels dry, give your plants a good soaking. [17]
    • If it rains pretty frequently in your area, only water your plants when the soil is dry.
  2. mid-summer and after the final harvest. For most varieties of strawberries, feed them twice during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer . Either water your plants with a water-soluble fertilizer or sprinkle a solid fertilizer across the soil. [18]
    • Some experts recommend scattering a general fertilizer over your plants in the early spring, and nourishing them with a liquid tomato fertilizer every 1-2 weeks throughout the growing season. [19]
  3. Regularly monitor your strawberry plant for weeds. When you see any, simply pull them out with your hands. Strawberries don’t have a deep root system, so a hoe or other tool might hurt the plant. [20]
    • To deter weeds from growing, spread a thick layer of straw mulch around your strawberries. [21]
  4. Strawberries are hardy plants that aren’t susceptible to a lot of pests or diseases. If you notice any mold growing on your plants, spritz them with fungicide . To deter pests like slugs or spotted wing drosophila, place slug bait and insect traps near the strawberries. [22]
    • If you notice gray mold developing on your plants, cut off the affected leaves and vines as soon as possible. [23]
    • Alternatively, use citrus rinds to repel slugs away from your plants.
    • Drape a garden net over your strawberries to prevent birds and other animals from nibbling the strawberries. [24]
  5. Most strawberries ripen 30 days after the flowers bloom. Simply snip off the berries from the stem with scissors, or pluck them off with your hands. Just pick them after the morning dew evaporates for an especially fresh and delicious taste. [25]
    • Eat or cook with your strawberries as soon as possible; this fruit doesn’t do well in the freezer.
    • Strawberry plants typically produce fruit for about 3 years.
  6. Runners are long, horizontal stems that your plant shoots out that eventually turn into new strawberry plants. If any runners are overwhelming your garden or container, prune them back with clean shears or scissors. Then, routinely check your plants for any yellow or browning leaves and snip them off. [26]
    • In the first year of growth, prune off any runners you see so they don’t take energy away from your growing plant.
    • When your strawberry plant stops producing fruit, simply snip off a runner that has a new plant growing from it. Then, plant the runner in a pot. [27]
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Expert Q&A

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  • Question
    Can I grow a strawberry from a strawberry?
    Erin Hostetler
    Edible Gardening Expert
    Erin Hostetler is an Edible Gardening Expert and the Owner & Farmer of The Patio Farmer, a small business based in Charlotte, North Carolina. With over 10 years of experience working on farms and growing food, Erin specializes in providing consultations, installations, and custom maintenance plans for people wanting to grow food in small (or large) spaces at their homes and businesses. Erin loves teaching other people the magic of growing your own food. She's a firm believer that there is a green thumb in everyone! Erin has degrees from Appalachian State University and King's College London, both of which guided her to start her business.
    Edible Gardening Expert
    Expert Answer
    Absolutely—strawberries propagate themselves pretty easily. They send out little appendages that have roots on them, which will actually create a new plant. So, when you're growing strawberries, it's good to keep in mind that they actually want to multiply and spread that way.
  • Question
    What is the best container to grow strawberries in?
    Erin Hostetler
    Edible Gardening Expert
    Erin Hostetler is an Edible Gardening Expert and the Owner & Farmer of The Patio Farmer, a small business based in Charlotte, North Carolina. With over 10 years of experience working on farms and growing food, Erin specializes in providing consultations, installations, and custom maintenance plans for people wanting to grow food in small (or large) spaces at their homes and businesses. Erin loves teaching other people the magic of growing your own food. She's a firm believer that there is a green thumb in everyone! Erin has degrees from Appalachian State University and King's College London, both of which guided her to start her business.
    Edible Gardening Expert
    Expert Answer
    Strawberry pots are great! These are terracotta pots that have multiple little pockets on the side, which help keep your fruit out of the soil and help keep the berries contained a little bit better.
  • Question
    In how many weeks are the seeds supposed to germinate under the thin layer of soil?
    Janice Tieperman
    Community Answer
    Strawberries typically germinate in about 2-3 weeks. However, you shouldn’t transplant them until they’re at least 1 in (2.5 cm) tall.
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      Tips

      • If you have a dehydrator, use it to collect seeds. Place whole or halved strawberries in a food dehydrator set to 135 to 140 °F (57 to 60 °C) and dry them for 24 to 36 hours (7 to 15 hours if halved). [28]
      • You can also collect seeds using the oven, but this takes twice as long as a dehydrator. Simply space your berries on a cooking tray and set them in the oven at 140 °F (60 °C), leaving the door 2 to 3 in (5.1 to 7.6 cm) open. [29]
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