How to Install a Gas Line Safely

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A straightforward guide for ambitious DIYers
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Are you installing a new gas range, gas fireplace, or other gas-powered appliance in your home? If so, you’ll need a new gas line to connect your appliance with your existing gas pipes. This can be a tricky task—gas lines can be very dangerous if they’re installed incorrectly, and you’re much better off hiring a registered contractor to get the job done. However, if you have DIY experience and feel comfortable tackling this project on your own, read on to learn how to safely install an additional gas line at home.

Gas Line Installation Process

  • Get the required permits from your local government before you start installing a gas line.
  • Connect and seal your new pipes securely with gas-grade plumber’s tape , pipe sealant , and a pipe wrench.
  • Pressure-test your pipes with an air compressor and spritz them with soapy water to detect any possible leaks.
  • Do not turn your gas on without getting a state or city building inspector to check and sign off on your work.
Section 1 of 2:

Can I install a gas line on my own?

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  1. You can save yourself $200-500 by performing your own gas line replacements or re-routes, but only if you’re the kind of person who already knows their way around a drill, wrench, and pipe cutter. The dangers of a gas leak due to inappropriate installation are too risky for laymen to try this. [1]
    • You cannot install an entire gas system on your own, though. While you’re normally allowed to replace or adjust a single gas line in your home (so long as it’s legal), you’re not allowed to run entire gas systems on your own. That kind of work is too complex and dangerous for DIY enthusiasts.
    • Do not attempt to install gas lines if you aren’t handy. The risks here far outweigh the benefits, so if you feel overwhelmed, lost, or unsure at any point in this process, do not push it. Call a professional.
  2. In some jurisdictions, it’s illegal for unlicensed individuals to perform any work on gas lines. In most areas, you can perform minor gas line work (like routing a new line or installing a gas stove) but only if you get the work inspected by your local building inspector when you’re done . Look up your local codes and laws before you start removing any drywall or cutting any pipe to ensure that you aren’t performing work that will blow up your building. [2]
    • Do not turn the gas on after completing your work until a building inspector signs off on it. Gas lines must be up to code and confirmed to be leak-free by a professional before you can actually turn the gas back on.
    • Stop by your local government’s building department and/or check your local government website to see which permits you need to apply for.
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Section 2 of 2:

Running a Gas Line

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  1. Use a measuring tape to find the distance from your first point to the gas line you’re going to connect to. Remember, you will likely need to route the line across more than one plane, so take any joints into account when you’re calculating your pipe lengths. [3]
    • What if I need to open the wall to measure? If you aren’t sure what to do, this is a good early sign that this kind of work may be a bit much for you. You’d need to use a hole saw or router to drive a hole in the drywall.
    • You must connect your new line to an existing valve. If there isn’t an existing capped valve for you to connect to, contact a plumber. Your gas system may not be built to handle additional volume if there isn’t a preexisting hookup. [4]
  2. While you measure, draw out all the different branches of your gas line, including the appliances they’re attached to. Label the estimated width of each pipe, as well as the BTU of each appliance. Make sure to label where your gas meter is too, and mention if your gas line uses propane or natural gas. This will give you a concrete overview of the scope of your new line. Inspectors will need this diagram when they check your work, too. [5]
    • Check with your local building department to see what details need to be included in your diagram.
  3. You can only use something called black iron pipe to run a gas line. Take your diagram to a hardware store and explain your project. Nine times out of ten, they’ll cut and thread your black iron pipe for you for a small additional cost. If they don’t, cut it yourself: [6]
    • Measure and mark your cuts with a piece of chalk or painter’s tape.
    • Use clamps or a vice to hold the pipe in place.
    • Use a metal-cutting blade attached to a rotary pipe cutter or snap cutter to cut the pipe to length.
    • Deburr the edges with sandpaper and use a pipe threader (if necessary) to install the threading for connections.
  4. Never make any changes to your gas piping while any gas is running. Head outside and find where the gas line feeds into your home. Follow this pipeline until you find a valve with a lever—this is your shutoff valve. Pull this lever so the gas is off. [7]
    • When your gas is turned on, the lever will be parallel to the gas line. When your gas is turned off, the lever will be perpendicular.
    • Most homes have 2 gas meters—one along the side of the home (the house-side shutoff), and another near the gas meter (the street-side shutoff). Whenever possible, always turn off the house-side shutoff valve, not the street-side one.
  5. Inspect the threading along the end of each pipe and see if it’s running clockwise or counterclockwise. Then, wind a section of plumber’s tape 5 times in the same direction as the threading. Once the tape is in place, apply a coat of pipe sealant over top. [8]
    • Some plumbers will use just tape or just glue. We’re going to recommend using both to ensure that you get a perfectly tight fit at each joint.
  6. Twist the elbow or coupling onto the pipe by hand, and then use a pipe wrench to tighten it into place. Use a firm amount of force—black iron pipe is much stronger than traditional PVC, Pex, or even cast iron. [9] Use enough force that you can’t easily undo the connection by hand when you’re done.
    • Use elbows and couplings to help angle and redirect your pipes in an efficient way through your home.
    • You are going to test your system before turning the gas back on, so don’t freak out about getting the absolutely perfect connection on every joint or pipe.
    • A tip on where to start: You can start at any connection point you’d like, but if you’re running a gas line to an appliance, start at the valve on the main. This way, you can slightly adjust the position of the appliance if you’re off by a little bit.
  7. At the end of whatever you’re connecting to, install a shutoff valve where it will connect to the appliance or fireplace. According to the National Electric Code, shutoff valves need to be less than 3 feet (0.91 m) away from their corresponding appliance but still easy to access and use. [10] Attach the valves with a crescent wrench, rather than a pipe wrench.
    • Shutoff valves can be 6 feet (1.8 m) away if you’re installing them near a dryer, and 4 feet (1.2 m) away if you’re installing them near a log lighter.
  8. The plug seals off the pipes and allows you to check for leaks. The “end” of your pipeline is the portion that sticks out of your house and connects to the gas source. Attach the shutoff valve to this protruding portion of pipe and tighten it into place with a crescent wrench. Then, screw a threaded metal pipe plug into the end of the valve to completely seal off the pipe system. [11]
    • Confirm you’ve got all of the right valves and plugs installed. You should have:
      • One shutoff valve on the appliance or fireplace connection.
      • One shutoff valve at the end of your pipe where it will connect to the appliance/fireplace. On this pipe, there should also be a plug.
      • One shutoff valve at the start of your pipe where it meets the main line.
  9. Use a pressure gauge to fill the pipes with air and test for leaks. Using plumber’s tape, thread a pressure gauge attachment onto the exposed end of the gas line that’s inside your home. Then, use an air compressor to fill the pipes with 100 psi (689 kPa) of pressure. Note the pressure level and wait at least 24 hours before checking it. [12]
    • If the pressure is the same after at least 24 hours: Your system is leak free and ready for inspection.
    • If the pressure is different after 24 hours: You have a leak somewhere. Follow the next step to find and fix it.
    • Chances are, your pipeline will only experience 15-20 psi (103-138 kPa) of pressure—testing with 100 psi (689 kPA) is just a precaution.
  10. Leaky pipes will bubble up when exposed to soapy water. Mix a few drops of dish soap in a spray bottle filled with water and spritz the mixture all over the pipe joints in your gas line. If the water bubbles up, tighten up the joints with a pipe wrench. [13]
    • Always inspect your pipes with soapy water, even if the pressure gauge doesn’t show any leaks. It’s always better to play it safe when you’re working with gas!
  11. Remove the pressure gauge from the interior end of your pipes and attach it to the corresponding appliance. Then, connect the exterior section of your pipe to your gas source. Do not use any tape or glue to connect here—just use the coupling that came with the appliance or fireplace to ensure a tight fit.
  12. Contact your local building/building code department and schedule an inspection. A plumbing inspector will make sure that your pipeline is good to go. During the inspection, the inspector will take a look at the materials you used for your gas line, as well as the route your gas pipes take through your home. They’ll also test your pipeline to make sure that everything is working properly. [15]
    • When you schedule your inspection, they’ll likely ask you to bring documentation with you. Bring everything that you need with you to the inspection.
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Tips

  • If your piping system isn’t already grounded, you’ll need to bond your gas line with copper wire to ground the pipes from any electrical current. This requires you to run a length of copper wire into your home’s electrical panel, so it’s best to leave this job to a licensed contractor.
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Warnings

  • Some gas-powered appliances, like stovetops and fireplaces, require both gas and electricity to work properly. If you don’t have any experience working with gas lines or electrical systems, hire a licensed professional to do the installation for you.
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Expert Interview

Thanks for reading our article! If you’d like to learn more about plumbing, check out our in-depth interview with Greg Jeiranyan .

References

  1. ↑ https://www.nyc.gov/site/buildings/property-or-business-owner/do-i-need-a-permit.page
  2. ↑ https://www.oregon.gov/bcd/Documents/brochures/2673.pdf
  3. ↑ https://kingcounty.gov/en/dept/dph/health-safety/environmental-health/plumbing-gas-piping/installations/installing-gas-piping
  4. ↑ https://kingcounty.gov/en/dept/dph/health-safety/environmental-health/plumbing-gas-piping/installations/installing-gas-piping
  5. ↑ https://catawbacountync.gov/site/assets/files/5316/fillable_-_gas_line_diagram_2019.pdf
  6. ↑ https://metalscut4u.com/blog/post/how-to-cut-cast-iron-pipe.html
  7. ↑ https://kingcounty.gov/en/dept/dph/health-safety/environmental-health/plumbing-gas-piping/installations/installing-gas-piping
  8. ↑ https://youtu.be/e5tO-efVZ0Q?t=36
  9. ↑ https://northeastplumbing.com.au/difference-between-cast-iron-and-black-pipes/
  1. ↑ https://www.sanjoseca.gov/home/showpublisheddocument/25995
  2. ↑ https://kingcounty.gov/en/dept/dph/health-safety/environmental-health/plumbing-gas-piping/installations/installing-gas-piping
  3. ↑ https://kingcounty.gov/en/dept/dph/health-safety/environmental-health/plumbing-gas-piping/installations/installing-gas-piping
  4. ↑ https://kingcounty.gov/en/dept/dph/health-safety/environmental-health/plumbing-gas-piping/installations/installing-gas-piping
  5. ↑ https://www.oregon.gov/bcd/lbdd/pages/oregon-permits.aspx
  6. ↑ https://www.oregon.gov/bcd/lbdd/pages/oregon-permits.aspx

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