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This article explains how a beginner can make glass beads from scratch, using a method called "lampworking".

  1. Good work always starts with having a good workspace.
    • Clean up an area to work on.
    • Pick up any objects that you wouldn't like to be damaged.
    • Clamp the torch head and gas canister to the table (follow instructions provided by the manufacturer).
  2. Make sure you can get to everything without reaching across the torch (even when off it will retain heat).
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  3. Take each one and rub firmly with wire wool. This cleans the metal and helps the bead release adhere to the surface.
  4. Dip each mandrel in the bead release and leave to dry. Some bead releases can be dried in the flame; however, if yours does not say to do this, then leave to air dry, as it may crack otherwise.
  5. Discard any mandrels with cracked bead release because if the glass comes in contact with the mandrel, it will stick and will likely be impossible to remove.
  6. Turn on the gas to your torch head. Bring up a lit match from underneath to light it.
  7. A bushy flame means you have too much gas.
  8. Take it into your dominant hand and, holding it horizontally, slowly wave it in and out of the flame just above the tip of the blue cone. If you heat the glass too quickly then it may "shock" or shatter.
  9. When the tip begins to glow, leave the glass in the flame a little longer, then start rotating the rod as a ball starts to form at the tip. [1]
  10. Try to keep the glass in the flame and keep rotating and so that it doesn't droop or cool, warm the mandrel in the flame just behind the glass. Hold the mandrel horizontally. [2]
  11. [3]
  12. At the same time, start rolling the mandrel slowly away from yourself. [4]
  13. The rest of the glass rod will slowly soften as you roll more onto the mandrel.
  14. You will get a thin string of glass, just allow the flame to melt through it. [5]
    • Place your glass rod onto the rod rest, out of the way.
    • You may want to switch your mandrel into your dominant hand at this point. To do this, carefully bring the mandrel in front of the torch. Never try reach over the flame.
  15. [6]
    • Add any decoration or other colours.
  16. Put the bead and mandrel in between two sheets of fiber blanket, or into a pot of vermiculite to cool. Be careful not to disturb the bead – if it cools too fast it may crack.
    • To check if your bead is cool enough to go into the fiber blanket or vermiculite without damaging it, hold the bead under your work area (don't forget to rotate) and see if it is still glowing – as soon as the glow fades, put it into the fiber blanket or vermiculite.
  17. If you have trouble removing the bead, grip the mandrel with a pair of vise pliers and try to twist and pull the bead off.
  18. Then scrub the inside with a bead reamer or a pipe cleaner. Now your bead is ready to use.
    • If wished, surface treatments such as etching can also be used at this point.
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      Tips

      • Try to keep your bead under 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) unless you have a kiln to anneal the beads in. Annealing is the process of adding strength by heating and cooling in a kiln. Without this process, glass beads risk cracking and breaking easily. [7]
      • If your match is blown out when trying to light your torch, then turn the gas lower. If the torch lights but then sputters out, then turn it up higher.
      • If using propane gas keep your bead high in the flame to avoid murky dull colours. Brazing fuel burns cleaner than propane and avoids this problem.
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      Warnings

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      Things You'll Need

      • A workbench
      • 1 lb canister of brazing fuel (MAPP gas) or propane
      • Matches
      • Single fuel torch head (hothead)
      • Mandrels (metal doweling)
      • Wire wool
      • Bead release or kiln wash
      • Fiber blanket or vermiculite
      • Glass rods
      • A rest for your rods to cool on after use
      • Metal container for water
      • Bead reamer or pipe cleaners
      • fire extinguisher
      • (optional) Bead kiln
      • (optional) Frit, millefiore, mica, stringers, etching solution etc for decoration
      • (optional) Heat-proof tools for shaping (anything metal or graphite can be experimented with)
      • (optional) Heat-proof board (if your workbench is not heat-proof)
      • (optional) Vise-grip pliers
      • (optional) Ointment for minor burns

      References

      1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nmKmxZCJKGg
      2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k1gn-YorlCs
      3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k1gn-YorlCs
      4. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k1gn-YorlCs
      5. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k1gn-YorlCs
      6. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gN6V_P6pLAY
      7. Jean Power, 200 Beading tips, techniques & trade secrets, p. 10, (2009), ISBN 978-0-312-58747-5
      8. Jean Power, 200 Beading tips, techniques & trade secrets, p. 10, (2009), ISBN 978-0-312-58747-5

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