How to Sew Thick Fabric by Hand

If you're hoping to sew thick fabric by hand, there are lots of things you can do to make it easier. Start by using strong sewing tools that will help you move through fabrics like denim, wool, canvas, or leather. There are several stitches that are great for thicker fabrics too. With a little bit of patience and some helpful tools, your thick fabric will be sewn in no time.

Method 1
Method 1 of 3:

Using the Right Tools

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  1. Watermark wikiHow to Sew Thick Fabric by Hand
    Needles come in all different sizes depending on which type of fabric they're intended for. Pick out a needle that's about a size 4 so that it will work well with thicker fabrics like denim, upholstery, or canvas. [1] Visit a craft store and look at the packaging to find the needle's size written on it. [2]
    • Many needles will even tell you on the packaging which type of fabric they're best for.
    • A size 4 needle is best for denim while a size 3 needle works well for leather.
    • Choose a wedge-point needle for thick fabrics like vinyl or leather to pierce the heavy fibers more easily and a sharp tip for thick fabrics like canvas that are woven. [3]
  2. Choose a heavyweight thread for your thicker fabric so that it won’t tear. Look for threads labeled as “upholstery weight,” “extra strong,” or something similar for your project. [4]
    • Choose a heavyweight thread color that matches your fabric.
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  3. Watermark wikiHow to Sew Thick Fabric by Hand
    A sewing awl is a small tool that makes sewing thick fabric much easier. Feed the thread through the hole and needle in the awl. Punch a hole all the way through your fabric using the needle and pull the thread out from the bottom⁠—this will be easy to do since the thread is attached to the sewing awl's needle. [5]
    • A sewing awl is great if you’re working with leather or canvas.
  4. Watermark wikiHow to Sew Thick Fabric by Hand
    Purchase wax for your thread, which is sometimes called thread conditioner. Slide the thread through the wax to make the thread slick. This will make it much easier for the thread to move through your thick fabric. [6]
    • Pull the thread through your needle after it’s waxed.
  5. Watermark wikiHow to Sew Thick Fabric by Hand
    When you’re sewing something by hand, it can be easy to prick your finger with the needle. Wear a thimble on your pointer finger on the opposite hand that you sew with to protect your finger from accidental pokes. [7] [8]
    • Look for a thimble at a local craft or big box store.
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Method 2
Method 2 of 3:

Choosing a Stitch and Seams

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  1. Watermark wikiHow to Sew Thick Fabric by Hand
    Use a backstitch for a simple stitch. To do a backstitch, poke your needle through the fabric starting from the back and coming up through the front. Bring the needle back down through the fabric about 1 cm (0.39 in) away from the original stitch and pull it back up through the fabric another 1 cm (0.39 in) away. Loop back down into the fabric right next to your first stitch, and continue this pattern for the backstitch. [9]
    • The backstitch is a great stitch for thick fabrics because it’s simple but holds the fabric in place tightly.
  2. Watermark wikiHow to Sew Thick Fabric by Hand
    A catch stitch is made by sewing zig zags next to one another in a line along the fabric’s edge. Sew the catch stitches so that the stitch is overlapping the folded edge of the fabric. [10]
  3. Watermark wikiHow to Sew Thick Fabric by Hand
    Thread a needle and weave the needle and thread in and out of the fabric in a straight line. Leave about 1 cm (0.39 in) of space between each stitch as you weave for a quick and easy baste stitch. [11]
    • The baste stitch isn’t a heavy duty option, but it will keep your fabric together.
  4. Watermark wikiHow to Sew Thick Fabric by Hand
    Pick out bias binding at a craft store that matches your thick fabric. Sew the bias binding onto the edge of your thick fabric to hide it using a straight stitch. This is a great way to create a smooth edge. [12]
  5. Watermark wikiHow to Sew Thick Fabric by Hand
    Opt for a French seam for an invisible sewing job. Make a French seam by sewing the seam on the inside of your project so it can’t be seen. Fold your fabric so the sides that will be hidden are facing one another and sew a seam down them. Trim your fabric along the seam, iron it so it’s flat, and then sew another seam to finish it off. [13]
    • Use pins to help you hold the fabric in place as you’re sewing.
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Method 3
Method 3 of 3:

Pressing and Holding Your Fabric

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  1. Watermark wikiHow to Sew Thick Fabric by Hand
    Fold the edges of your fabric where you’ll be sewing and use an iron to crease them so the thick fabric will stay folded. Lay a cloth between your fabric and the iron to protect your fabric. [14]
    • Fold the edges and then lay the cloth on top before using the iron.
    • Avoid touching the hot sections of the iron so you don’t burn yourself.
  2. Watermark wikiHow to Sew Thick Fabric by Hand
    Push long pins through the thick fabric to hold a folded edge or several pieces of fabric together. Slide the pins through the fabric before you start sewing and then remove them carefully once you’ve sewn that specific area. [15]
    • Be careful not to poke yourself with the pin when you’re pushing it through the fabric.
  3. Watermark wikiHow to Sew Thick Fabric by Hand
    Regular binder clips or something similar can be very useful if you’re trying to hold together very thick fabric or several pieces of it. Attach the clips to the edge or area you’d like to sew and then remove the clips once you’re finished sewing. [16]
    • For example, you might use clips to hold the folded edge of the thick fabric so you can sew a hem.
  4. Watermark wikiHow to Sew Thick Fabric by Hand
    If you’re using extra thick fabric, your seams may feel bulky, especially if they cross with another seam. To help flatten the fabric out, tap the seam with a hammer or rubber mallet. Do this a couple times to smooth out the seam so it’s not so thick. [17]
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      References

      1. ↑ Korri Burton-Universe. Professional Tailor. Expert Interview. 12 January 2021.
      2. ↑ https://blog.treasurie.com/sewing-thick-fabrics/
      3. ↑ Korri Burton-Universe. Professional Tailor. Expert Interview. 12 January 2021.
      4. ↑ https://weallsew.com/tips-sewing-bulky-fabrics/
      5. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6OatKzjeD0#t=2m40s
      6. ↑ http://thedreamstress.com/2013/03/tips-and-tricks-for-hand-sewing-historical-and-otherwise/
      7. ↑ Korri Burton-Universe. Professional Tailor. Expert Interview. 12 January 2021.
      8. ↑ http://thedreamstress.com/2013/03/tips-and-tricks-for-hand-sewing-historical-and-otherwise/
      9. ↑ https://blog.treasurie.com/sewing-thick-fabrics/
      1. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7gkV9alQ1eo#t=35s
      2. ↑ https://sewguide.com/sewing-thick-fabrics-many-layers-fabric/
      3. ↑ https://blog.treasurie.com/sewing-thick-fabrics/
      4. ↑ https://blog.treasurie.com/sewing-thick-fabrics/
      5. ↑ https://sewguide.com/how-to-press-for-sewing/
      6. ↑ https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2012/01/30/how-to-use-pins-the-right-way
      7. ↑ https://sewguide.com/sewing-thick-fabrics-many-layers-fabric/
      8. ↑ https://sewguide.com/sewing-thick-fabrics-many-layers-fabric/

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