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A guide to the size, shape, and color of manmade and natural pearls
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Did you know that pearls are not one and the same? There are various types of pearls. From saltwater pearls to freshwater pearls, there’s a pearl type for everyone’s taste and budget. But what’s the difference between the types, and how can you choose which is right for you? In this article, we’ll walk you through all the major types of pearls, explaining where they come from, how they’re formed, and their average price.

The Most Common Types of Pearls

  1. Akoya Pearls are saltwater pearls that grow quickly and come in various sizes.
  2. South Sea Pearls are cultured saltwater pearls that come in various sizes.
  3. Tahitian Pearls are cultured saltwater pearls that have a unique black finish.
  4. Freshwater Pearls are the most versatile and affordable and come in various sizes.
Section 1 of 9:

Common Types of Pearls

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  1. Also known as saltwater pearls, these pearls form in Akoya mollusks found in bays, inlets, and atolls across Japan, China, Vietnam, Thailand, Australia, Indonesia, and Tahiti. These pearls have a fast-growing period (between 6 and 18 months). [1]
    • Origin: Japan, China, Vietnam
    • Sizes: 2.0-3.0mm to 9.0-9.5mm (in rare cases, 9.5-10.0mm)
    • Colors: White, silvery blue, gold
    • Shapes: Round, free-form baroque
    • Price: >$200
  2. South Sea pearls are saltwater cultured pearls with a white, silver, or golden hue. They’re large and take a long time to grow, which makes them more expensive. [2]
    • Origin: Australia, Philippines, Indonesia
    • Sizes: 9.0-10.00mm to 14.0-15.0mm
    • Colors: White, gold
    • Shapes: Free-form baroque, circled baroque, smooth baroque, round
    • Price: >$1,500
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  3. Also known as black pearls, Tahitian pearls are saltwater cultured pearls with a wide range of colors. These gorgeous pearls can have blue, green, and purple overtones, making them appear iridescent. [3]
    • Origin: French Polynesia
    • Sizes: 8.0-9.0mm to 15.0-16.0mm
    • Colors: Black, gray, peacock, green
    • Shapes: Free-form baroque, circled baroque, smooth baroque, round
    • Price: >$200
  4. Freshwater pearls are the most versatile and affordable pearls out there. These pearls range in size, shape, and color, depending on where they are formed or cultured. These types of pearls are the most commonly found in commercial jewelry. [4]
    • Origin: Fresh bodies of water [5]
    • Sizes: 2.0-3.0mm to 9.5m-10.0mm
    • Colors: White, rose, silver, cream
    • Shapes: Round, oval, drop, free-form baroque
    • Price: >$100
    EXPERT TIP

    Cory Schifter

    Jeweler & Certified Jewelry Appraiser
    Cory Schifter is a Jeweler, Certified Jewelry Appraiser, and the Owner of Casale Jewelers in Dongan Hills, Staten Island, New York. Casale Jewelers is known for its selection of fine jewelry, designer brands, engagement rings, certified diamonds, custom-made jewelry, and watches. Cory has over 10 years in the jewelry industry and is a certified jewelry appraiser. Cory was featured on NY1 News “Got it Made in New York” for Casale Jewelers’ custom design business and Casale Jewelers was recognized by American Express and Facebook in 2012 as one of the top five small businesses in the nation.
    Cory Schifter
    Jeweler & Certified Jewelry Appraiser

    Freshwater pearls have a diverse range of quality. On an A - AAAA Grading System, you can find freshwater pearls that rank the lowest (A) or the highest (AAAA).

  5. These saltwater pearls are extremely valuable thanks to their rich history. Harvesting these pearls was banned in 1939, and the pearls were not rediscovered until 1996, when they began to be cultivated and cultured in Mexico. Today, the pearls can only be purchased from specific vendors. [6]
    • Origin: Mexico
    • Sizes: 8.0-9.0mm to 11.0-12.0mm
    • Colors: Blue-green, green, mauve, copper, rose
    • Shapes: Symmetrical baroque, smooth drop, round
    • Price: >$2,000
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Section 2 of 9:

Unique Types of Pearls

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  1. Often called poppy seed pearls, Keshi pearls form when a pearl continues to grow outside the pearl sac or something irritates the mollusk while the pearl forms. This causes a unique irregular and asymmetrical shape. [7]
    • Colors: White, cream, lavender
    • Shapes: Irregular, asymmetrical
    • Price: >$280
    • Fun fact: Keshi pearls can be made from any type of mollusk, as they’re a byproduct of the culturing process.
  2. Also known as blister pearls, half-pearls, and composite pearls, mabe pearls have a flat shape that helps them stand out from the rest. These pearls can be found in fresh and saltwater and are often used to make jewelry. [8]
    • Colors: White, gold
    • Shapes: Round with a flat backside
    • Price: >$30
    • Fun fact: Mabe pearls can be formed from any type of mollusk—they’re a product of the culturing process!
  3. Baroque pearls have a unique and captivating shape that’s anything but symmetrical. These pearls are irregular and textured because they are developed differently in the mollusk. [9]
    • Sizes: Irregular, asymmetrical
    • Colors: Pink, lavender, silver, gold
    • Shapes: Irregular, organic
    • Price: >$50
    • Fun fact: Baroque pearls are a byproduct of the culturing process. This means they can form in any type of mollusk.
  4. Often called Lake Biwa pearls, Biwa pearls have a dark, iridescent color. These pearls are unique because they can only be found in Lake Biwa in Japan. Their shape is unconventional and resembles rice. [10]
    • Origin: Japan
    • Colors: White, cream, pink, lavender
    • Shapes: Stick-like, organic
    • Price: >$60
    • Fun fact: While Lake Biwa is the primary source of these pearls, they are now being produced in other freshwater pearl farming regions. Because of this, the term is often used to refer to all freshwater pearls.
  5. Coin pearls are cultured pearls with a flat, coin-like shape. These pearls are formed flat in the mollusk, which gives them a disc appearance. They’re primarily found in freshwater and are often used in contemporary jewelry designs. [11]
    • Origin: China
    • Colors: White, cream, pink, lavender
    • Shapes: Flat
    • Price: >$15
    • Fun fact: Coin pearls range in all shapes and sizes, depending on how they’re cultured.}}
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Section 3 of 9:

Natural vs. Cultured Pearls

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  1. Pearls are formed when an irritant (parasite or bacteria) enters the mollusk. When a pearl is formed naturally, the oyster or mussel slowly secretes the organic material aragonite and conchiolin to irritate the mollusk and create a pearl. A cultured pearl is made when an irritant is manually inserted into the mollusk. [12]
    • Think of it like this: Natural pearls are made only by nature, while cultured pearls are manmade.
Section 4 of 9:

Saltwater vs. Freshwater Pearls

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  1. Pearls can be classified into two categories: saltwater and freshwater. Saltwater pearls are formed in saltwater, while freshwater pearls are formed in freshwater. However, this isn’t the only difference: [13]
    • Saltwater pearls: [14]
      • Formed in saltwater oysters
      • Longer to form
      • Higher luster
      • Higher quality
      • More expensive
    • Freshwater pearls:
      • Formed in freshwater mussels
      • Quicker to form
      • Lower luster
      • Lower quality
      • More affordable
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Section 5 of 9:

Pearl Sizes

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  1. Pearls come in various sizes, making them ideal for dainty, elegant jewelry or stand-out pieces. The standard, most popular pearl size is 7.0-8.0mm , which is commonly found on necklaces or stud earrings. Pearls can be as small as 6.5-7.0mm or as large as 12.0-13.0mm . [15]
    • The larger the pearl, the more expensive it’ll likely be.
Section 6 of 9:

Pearl Shapes

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  1. There are 7 main types of shapes used to define pearls. While the most popular is a classic round shape, many find beauty in the more irregular, organic styles. Take a look at the shape types below: [16]
    • Round or true round: The most valuable and rarest pearl shape. Has a perfect spherical shape.
    • Near round or off-round: The most popular pearl shape. Has an oval, egg-like shape when inspected up close but appears round from a distance.
    • Button-shape: Most commonly found in earrings and necklaces. Has a flattened back and round top.
    • Drop-shape: The second-rarest pearl shape. Has a smooth, symmetrical shape that resembles a teardrop.
    • Baroque: The most common pearl shape. Has an irregular, unique shape with unsmooth characteristics.
    • Circled baroque: Also known as “Circles of Love.” Has the irregularity of baroque pearls but with a circular shape.
    • Free-form baroque: Most commonly used to make jewelry art. Has an asymmetrical shape and fluid appearance.
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Section 7 of 9:

Pearl Colors

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  1. The most popular pearl color is white; however, white isn’t the only color a pearl can be. Pearls come in various colors, most reflecting their environment and natural properties. The main color of a pearl is known as the body color and is composed of many additional colors called overtones. The overtones combined create the overall color of the pearl. These colors include: [17]
    • White
    • Pink or rosé
    • Green
    • Purple
    • Blue
    • Iridescent or orient
Section 8 of 9:

What’s the least and most valuable pearl?

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  1. The value of pearls comes down to the source, size, and brilliance. The overall quality of the pearl can cause the price to rise or fall. Typically, the most expensive pearl is the South Sea pearl, which can cost as much as $100,000 for a strand. [18] The least expensive pearl is a freshwater pearl, with a strand costing as little as $50. [19]
    • Valued at $100 million, the Fisherman’s Pearl is the most expensive pearl in the world. This pearl is from the Philippines and weighs 75 pounds (34,000 g). [20]
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Section 9 of 9:

Which pearl is best for you?

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  1. When it comes to picking out pearls, opt for the type that best fits your needs. There are three things to consider: luster (the brilliance or color of the pearl), size, and affordability.
    • For the most brilliant luster, go for an Akoya pearl.
    • For a larger pearl, opt for a South Sea pearl.
    • For the most affordable pearl, go with choose a freshwater pearl.

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