What Is Selvedge Denim?

If you’re into vintage clothing, you’ve probably heard of selvedge denim. It’s a type of denim made with traditional looms that naturally finish and secure the edges, or “self edges,” of the denim, making for a more durable and sturdy fabric. We’ll tell you everything you need to know about selvedge denim, including how it’s made, if it’s worth the money (and why it costs so much), its history, and more.

Things You Should Know

Selvedge denim is a type of jean woven on traditional shuttle looms (rather than modern looms) and is often associated with higher quality due to its traditional production methods.
Spot selvedge denim by turning up the cuff of your jeans. Selvedge denim will have a neat edge with a colored line of thread along the vertical seam.
Selvedge denim is said to be sturdier than other denim, last longer, fade more elegantly, and shape to your body more comfortably.

Section 1 of 7:

What is selvedge denim?

Download Article

{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/6\/66\/What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-1.jpg\/v4-460px-What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-1.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/6\/66\/What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-1.jpg\/v4-728px-What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-1.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\">\u00a9 2024 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is not<\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. \n<\/p> \n<\/p><\/div>"}
Selvedge denim is denim with naturally finished edges. To make selvedge denim, a shuttle loom passes a “shuttle,” or a sort of loaded bobbin, through parallel threads to weave the denim fabric. As it goes back and forth, it crosses back on itself to secure any loose threads, creating a “self edge,” or edges that are naturally bound and finished by the weaving process itself. ^{[1]
X
Research source}
- The shuttle weaves the “weft,” or the lighter, whitish fabric, through the stationary “shed,” or the hallmark blue fabric, to create a panel of denim.
- Modern, or standard denim, on the other hand, is made on a projectile loom, which weaves individual threads together, leaving loose threads at the ends. These are then secured in place with an additional overlock stitch.

Section 2 of 7:

How can I spot selvedge denim?

Download Article

{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/d\/dd\/What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-2.jpg\/v4-460px-What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-2.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/d\/dd\/What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-2.jpg\/v4-728px-What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-2.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\">\u00a9 2024 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is not<\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. \n<\/p> \n<\/p><\/div>"}
Selvedge denim has a distinctive colored stripe under the hem. Turn up the hem of your jeans and look for the vertical seam where the fabric panels are joined. If your jeans are selvedge denim, spotting this will be easy—this white seam will be narrow and marked with a colored stripe that’s usually red or orange. ^{[2]
X
Research source}
- This is the finished edge of the fabric—the self edge itself.

Section 3 of 7:

Is selvedge denim better than other kinds of denim?

Download Article

{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/6\/62\/What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-3.jpg\/v4-460px-What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-3.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/6\/62\/What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-3.jpg\/v4-728px-What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-3.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\">\u00a9 2024 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is not<\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. \n<\/p> \n<\/p><\/div>"}
Selvedge denim is more durable, and more expensive, than other denim. Because the edges of selvedge denim are naturally woven and secured into the fabric itself, selvedge denim is often much more durable than other types. It’s also said to fade more naturally and elegantly, and to conform to your body over time, making for a more personalized and comfortable fit. ^{[3]
X
Research source}
- Many types of denim made today are made with “projectile looms,” which produce the material one weft thread at a time, leaving loose threads that are fastened after the fabric panel is made. ^{[4]
 X
 Research source}

Section 4 of 7:

Why is selvedge denim more expensive?

Download Article

{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/a\/aa\/What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-4.jpg\/v4-460px-What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-4.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/a\/aa\/What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-4.jpg\/v4-728px-What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-4.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\">\u00a9 2024 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is not<\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. \n<\/p> \n<\/p><\/div>"}

Unlike modern, standard denim, selvedge denim is woven on specialty looms that are often old, and which take much more human involvement to operate. They also produce narrower lengths of fabric, meaning more labor is needed to produce enough fabric for a single pair of jeans. ^{[5]
X
Research source} All that labor doesn’t come cheap!

Section 5 of 7:

How is selvedge denim different from “raw” denim?

Download Article

{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/2\/2f\/What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-5.jpg\/v4-460px-What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-5.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/2\/2f\/What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-5.jpg\/v4-728px-What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-5.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\">\u00a9 2024 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is not<\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. \n<\/p> \n<\/p><\/div>"}
Raw denim is denim that hasn’t been washed by the producer. Most selvedge denim is raw, which just means the denim hasn’t been washed before you wear it, and is said to make the denim more durable and form-fitting. ^{[6]
X
Research source} It’s valued for the graceful way it ages and fades, and holds the shape of your body the longer you wear it. ^{[7]
X
Research source}
- Raw denim can be washed as usual, but be prepared for it to shrink 1-2 sizes after that first wash.

Section 6 of 7:

What’s the history of selvedge denim?

Download Article

{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/5\/54\/What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-6.jpg\/v4-460px-What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-6.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/5\/54\/What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-6.jpg\/v4-728px-What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-6.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\">\u00a9 2024 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is not<\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. \n<\/p> \n<\/p><\/div>"}

1
Selvedge denim was the original denim manufacturing method. The history of selvedge is the history of denim. When denim was first being manufactured in America by producers like Levi Strauss back in the 19th century, they used now-traditional shuttle looms to do so, which gave the denim that iconic selvedge we covet today. ^{[8]
X
Research source}
- Cone Mills Denim in Greensboro, North Carolina, which opened in 1905, was the epicenter of America’s denim production, and was where many producers filed patents for denim.
{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/7\/7e\/What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-7.jpg\/v4-460px-What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-7.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/7\/7e\/What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-7.jpg\/v4-728px-What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-7.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\">\u00a9 2024 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is not<\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. \n<\/p> \n<\/p><\/div>"}

2
American selvedge began to disappear as denim demand soared. Traditional methods of weaving denim are neither cheap nor quick, so as denim became wildly popular after WWII, producers turned to other weaving methods to meet demand, and selvedge denim began to disappear. ^{[9]
X
Research source}
- The Cone Mills denim factory shuttered in 2017, marking an end to 112 years of selvedge production and, in many ways, the end of an era.
{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/8\/81\/What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-8.jpg\/v4-460px-What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-8.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/8\/81\/What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-8.jpg\/v4-728px-What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-8.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\">\u00a9 2024 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is not<\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. \n<\/p> \n<\/p><\/div>"}

3
Japanese producers kept selvedge alive. While selvedge production dropped off in America, a number of Japanese producers procured their own shuttle looms and began to make their own selvedge denim. Now, Japan is one of the largest producers of selvedge denim, and Japanese producers have their own processes and hallmarks, and are known for their meticulous eye for detail and quality. ^{[10]
X
Research source}
- In comparison to American selvedge, Japanese selvedge is somewhat rougher and thicker, and is famous for often being hand-dyed with indigo, a costly and labor-intensive process.
- Some popular Japanese producers include Kurabo, Kuroki, Kaihara, and Toyoshima, among others.

Section 7 of 7:

Selvedge Denim Buying Guide

Download Article

{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/2\/23\/What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-9.jpg\/v4-460px-What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-9.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/2\/23\/What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-9.jpg\/v4-728px-What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-9.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\">\u00a9 2024 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is not<\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. \n<\/p> \n<\/p><\/div>"}

1
Budget brands If money’s tight, but you still want that signature quality and durability of selvedge, Uniqlo’s a top pick. The Unbranded Brand also makes quality selvedge, which is made with many of the same materials as designer brands, but priced much lower due to remote manufacturing. Other budget brands include:
{"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/c\/c7\/What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-10.jpg\/v4-460px-What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-10.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/c\/c7\/What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-10.jpg\/v4-728px-What-Is-Selvedge-Denim-Step-10.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\">\u00a9 2024 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is not<\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. \n<\/p> \n<\/p><\/div>"}

2
High-end brands You get what you pay for, and that’s true of selvedge denim, too. If you’re a little more experienced with selvedge and know what you want, and what you like, then you might spring for something a little more pricey, which tends to last even longer. Some choice brands include:
- A.P.C.
- &Sons
- Kurabo
- Nudie

Expert Q&A

Search

Add New Question

Ask a Question

200 characters left

Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered.

Submit

Tips

“Selvedge” is the American spelling, while “selvage” is the British spelling. Both are acceptable. ^{[11]
X
Research source}

Thanks
Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0

Submit a Tip

All tip submissions are carefully reviewed before being published

Submit

Thanks for submitting a tip for review!

[1]

[2]

[3]

[4]

[5]

[6]

[7]

[8]

[9]

[10]

[11]

Log in

What Is Selvedge Denim?

Things You Should Know

Steps

What is selvedge denim?

How can I spot selvedge denim?

Is selvedge denim better than other kinds of denim?

Why is selvedge denim more expensive?

How is selvedge denim different from “raw” denim?

What’s the history of selvedge denim?

Selvedge Denim Buying Guide

Expert Q&A

Tips

You Might Also Like

References

About This Article

Did this article help you?

Quizzes

You Might Also Like

Featured Articles

Trending Articles

Featured Articles

Featured Articles

Watch Articles

Trending Articles

Explore Categories