How to Sew Chain Stitch

Co-authored by Seleh Rahman

Last Updated: March 6, 2024 References

In sewing, a chain stitch is just what it sounds like — a series of stitches connected in a chain-like pattern. While the chain stitch is an ancient technique, it's still one of the most-widely used stitches in the world of sewing. ^{[1]
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Research source} This stitch is just as useful for filling in shapes as it is for outlining, as its chained structure makes it flexible enough for following curves and spirals. Best of all, there are multiple ways to sew a chain stitch, so grab a needle and thread and start learning today!

Method 1

Method 1 of 3:

Making a Basic Chain Stitch

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1
Start with a small stitch. The very beginning of a basic chain stitch is easy — all you need to do is make a small, straight stitch in your fabric. The exact size doesn't matter, but it shouldn't be any larger than a quarter inch or so. This stitch will "anchor" the rest of your chain. ^{[2]
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- To make a simple stitch, just bring the needle through the back of the fabric, then bring it through the front of the fabric near the first hole.
- Try practicing chain stitches on an old pair of pants first. ^{[3]
  X
  Expert Source
  
  Seleh Rahman
  Professional Tailor & Furrier
  
  Expert Interview. 25 June 2021.}
- Always start at the side seam, not in the middle of the garment. This way, any mistakes won't be noticeable. ^{[4]
  X
  Expert Source
  
  Seleh Rahman
  Professional Tailor & Furrier
  
  Expert Interview. 25 June 2021.}
- Mark your garment with tailor's chalk as you practice. Then, simply follow the chalk line as you sew! ^{[5]
  X
  Expert Source
  
  Seleh Rahman
  Professional Tailor & Furrier
  
  Expert Interview. 25 June 2021.}
Bring the needle through the back of the fabric a short distance below your first stitch. This new hole should be in line with the first two (not off to either side.)

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Bring the needle under the initial stitch from the side. You may need to use the needle tip to work the stitch open slightly. Pull the thread through so that it's reasonably tight (but not so tight that the fabric bunches up.)
Next, put the needle point through the same hole that you came up through in Step 2. Your stitch should look like a skinny oval or slit. You've just made the first "link" of your chain!
Now, all you need to do is just repeat the steps above to continue your chain. Bring the needle through the back of the fabric at a spot that's about as far from your first link as you did before.
This time, pass the thread underneath both threads in the "link" of the chain. Then, put the needle down through the same hole you came up through. Your chain should now have two links.
Simply continue this pattern to continue adding links to your chain.

Method 2

Method 2 of 3:

Making a Heavy Chain Stitch

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1
Start by making a single "link" of a basic chain stitch. This variation on the basic chain stitch has a thicker, more defined appearance, making it a great choice for stitching borders and outlines that you want to stand out. To begin, you'll want to create a one-link basic chain stitch according to the method above. ^{[6]
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Research source} In other words: ^{[7]
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- Start with a single small stitch
- Come back through the fabric at a spot in line with your stitch (less than an inch or so away)
- Loop your thread through your first stitch
- Put the needle back through the hole it came from.
2
Make a second "link" through the original stitch. At this point, the heavy chain stitch starts to differ from the basic method. Come back through the fabric a little ways from your first link as you normally would, but then make a loop that passes through the original "anchor" stitch — not the link you just made.
- After this, pull the thread through and put the needle back through the hole it came from once again.
3
Make a third link through the first two links. Come back through the fabric below the second link. Pass the needle under both of the previous links. This is crucial — you want the thread to pass under not just the second link, but the second and first links together. When done, put the needle back through the hole it came from as before.
- Ignore the original "anchor" stitch — we don't need to deal with it any more.
4
Repeat as needed. Continue this pattern to extend your chain. Each time you come up through the fabric, loop your thread under the last two links you've made. If you do this correctly, a thick, "tight"-looking chain stitch should begin to form.
- It takes careful attention to get the pattern down, but once you get it, this stitch isn't difficult. Until it becomes natural, be careful about missing a stitch and looping your new link through just one previous link instead of two — if you don't catch your mistake, this will give your finished product an uneven "kink" in the chain.

Method 3

Method 3 of 3:

Making a Cable Chain Stitch

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This variant on the basic chain stitch actually looks like a real chain . Unlike the method above, we won't start with a basic chain stitch here. Instead, simply bring the needle from the back side of the fabric to the front.
Next, bring the needle in front of your working thread (the "slack" length of thread that you haven't used yet.) Wrap the working thread one complete turn to form a tight loop around the needle.
3
"Scoop" up a short length of fabric. Stick the needle back through the front of the fabric a short distance from where you brought it through. Then, without pulling the thread tight, bring the point of the needle back through the fabric again a short ways down the line.
- An easy way to do this is to bring the needle through the fabric at a shallow angle, rather than at a 90-degree angle. This way, you can slip the needle into the fabric and back out again using only the length of the needle, so you won't need to pull on the thread.
4
Pull the needle over the working thread. Start pulling the needle to tighten the thread. Make sure the needle travels over the working thread rather than under it. Finally, pull the thread tight.
- If you've done everything correctly, at this point you should be left with a stitch that looks like an oval shape or the number 0.
5
Repeat as needed. Though it may not seem like it at first, all you need to do to continue your cable chain stitch is just repeat the steps above. As you lengthen your stitch, you'll eventually get a string of "0s" joined by short "-" segments that resemble the links in a real chain. To recap, for the rest of the stitch, you'll need to: ^{[8]
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- Wrap the working thread around the needle
- Scoop up a short length of fabric by putting the needle through the thread and bringing it back through without tightening the thread.
- Pull the needle back over the working thread
- Pull to tighten.

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Question

How do you practice chain stitch?

Seleh Rahman
Professional Tailor & Furrier
Seleh Rahman is a Tailor, Furrier, and the Owner of Seleh de Federal Hill in Baltimore, Maryland. With over 45 years of experience, Seleh specializes in fur, alterations, and fashion illustration. Seleh studied Fashion Design and Tailoring at Bay College of Maryland. He holds certifications in fur, design, and tailoring.

Seleh Rahman

Professional Tailor & Furrier

Expert Answer

Practice with an old garment, like a pair of pants. Start your chain stitch at the side seam instead of the middle of the pant leg; this way, it won't be obvious if you make a mistake.

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Question

How do you sew a chain stitch evenly?

Seleh Rahman
Professional Tailor & Furrier
Seleh Rahman is a Tailor, Furrier, and the Owner of Seleh de Federal Hill in Baltimore, Maryland. With over 45 years of experience, Seleh specializes in fur, alterations, and fashion illustration. Seleh studied Fashion Design and Tailoring at Bay College of Maryland. He holds certifications in fur, design, and tailoring.

Seleh Rahman

Professional Tailor & Furrier

Expert Answer

Draw on the fabric with a piece of tailor's chalk. Then, sew along this line so your stitches stay straight and even.

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How do you explain this in a short paragraph?

Community Answer

Chain stitching is when you sew multiple pieces together without stopping. It is a way to save thread.

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Your chain can be made broader by inserting the needle a little to the side, rather than through the exact hole where the last thread came through.

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While the basic chain stitch was the "default" stitch for early sewing machines, it's now been largely replaced by the lockstitch, which is more secure. However, some modern machines still have this option.

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The tambour stitch gives a similar "chain", though it is sewed in a very different way. This alternate stitch is sewed in a frame with a fine crochet hook instead of with a needle. This typically makes the process quicker, but the end result tends to look a little more uniform or "machine-made", so it's not always recommended.

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Warnings

Take care not to draw the thread too tightly at any point, as this can cause the material to "pucker" or bunch up, especially when working on curved lines.

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Things You'll Need

Needle
Thread
Pattern requiring chain stitch

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How to Sew Chain Stitch

Steps

Making a Basic Chain Stitch

Making a Heavy Chain Stitch

Making a Cable Chain Stitch

Expert Q&A

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Tips

Warnings

Things You'll Need

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