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Applying a wax or finish to a floor creates a glossy, protective layer that keeps your floor attractive and free from scratches and stains. However, over time these layers wear down or become dirty, and need to be removed before a new one can be reapplied. Follow these instructions to learn how to complete this process from start to finish, but be sure to follow specific instructions on the label of your floor finish stripper, floor wax, or floor finish. If you are stripping and waxing a large floor space, consider renting the specialized equipment suggested below from a home improvement store or equipment rental service.
Steps
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Purchase a floor finish stripper that is appropriate for your floor. Some types of floor, especially hardwood, may be damaged by certain types of floor finish stripper. Check the label before buying to make sure it is safe to use on your type of floor. For best results, use a floor finish stripper that is the same brand as the floor wax you last used.
- Some floor finish strippers are advertised as "no rinse," which means you do not have to rinse them off the floor once you are done. However, floor finish strippers are powerful solvents, and some people prefer to rinse even "no rinse" strippers to make sure no damage or discoloration occurs.
- Floor finish strippers that are environmentally sustainable may be marked with a special logo, such as "Tera Choice" in Canada or "Green Seal" in the USA.
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Rent an electric floor scrubber and a wet-dry vacuum (recommended). Renting specialized equipment will make the task much easier. The floor scrubber scrubs away sealers and floor finish, and the wet-dry vacuum will suck up the stripper and sealer/floor finish residue afterward. Some floor scrubbers include squeegee attachments which can take the place of the wet vacuum as well.
- Floor scrubbers come in various sizes. The larger sizes will strip the floor more quickly, and are recommended if you are stripping a large area rather than a room or two of a residential house.
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Make the floor bare and free of dust. Move all furniture, rugs, and loose objects to another room. Sweep or vacuum the floor thoroughly to remove all dust.
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Open all windows and doors. Floor finish stripper creates toxic fumes when applied, and should never be used in an area with poor ventilation. If you are not working in a space with good air flow, set up fans in front of window or doors, and/or wear a respirator mask.
- Take care not to point fans directly at the floor, as this could dry out the floor finish stripper and interfere with the stripping process.
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Learn additional safety procedures. Rubber gloves are mandatory, and goggles are highly recommended, as floor finish strippers contain harmful chemicals that can be absorbed through the skin and damage the eyes. Long sleeves and long pants should also be worn to cover as much skin as possible. Know where the nearest running water faucet is and be ready to flush out your eyes or rinse your skin for fifteen minutes in running water if you come into contact with the floor finish stripper.
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Test the stripper on a corner of the floor. Test the floor finish stripper on a part of the floor that is not readily visible before you get started, such as an edge that is normally underneath heavy furniture. Some floors, especially older linoleum ones, will suffer damage or color bleed when stripped. If this occurs, you may need to try a different brand of floor finish stripper or contact a professional.
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Determine your plan of attack. You'll want to start in the corner that is farthest from an exit and work your way toward the exit. If you are doing this by hand, plan to strip 2-by-4-foot (60-by- 120-cm) sections of the floor. If you are using a floor scrubber, you can strip larger sections-generally 100 square feet (9 square meters) at a time.
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Line three buckets with trash bags. Line each bucket with a large, heavy-duty trash bag for easy cleanup, and to preserve the bucket for other uses.
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Mix floor finish stripper and water in one bucket according to the label. Pour floor finish stripper and water into one of the buckets according to the manufacturer's instructions. Most strippers require significant diluting before they can be used safely and effectively. [1] X Research source
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Fill a second bucket with clean water. This will be used to rinse off the floor stripping solution after it has removed the finish from the floor.
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Fill the third bucket with tools. This third bucket will be used to contain the used floor stripping solution, but to begin with you can use it to store your tools. You'll need two mops, one for the stripping solution and one for the water. Also include all scrubbers, scrapers, or other tools in this bucket. At least one scraping tool is usually necessary, such as a poll scraper or putty knife. A toothbrush and scrubbing pads are also recommended.
- Do not use tools you wish to keep nice or use for other projects. The knife may be usable afterwards with a thorough cleaning, but the toothbrush certainly won't be.
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Mop floor finish stripper over the floor. Use one mop to cover two 2-by-4-foot (60-by-120-cm) sections of the floor with the stripper. Apply enough stripper to coat the area thoroughly, but not so much that it floods the area and soaks between seams or cracks. Apply stripper more liberally in areas with a lot of wax buildup.
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Scrub tough areas by hand or with an electric floor scrubber. Allow the stripper to soak according to instructions on the label, then use the scrub pads (with the floor scrubber if one is available) to scrape away the wax buildup.
- Note: always wear rubber gloves.
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Use other tools to scrape away finish at corners. Use the toothbrush to scrub nooks and crannies and the putty knife to scrape away gobs or multiple finish layers in corners.
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Remove the floor finish stripper. Use a squeegee, floor scrubber squeegee attachment, or wet-dry vacuum to remove the wax residue and stripper. Soak up excess liquid with rags or the mop. Unless you are using a wet-dry vacuum, dump all of this into the third bucket after removing your tools.
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Continue to apply stripper in stages. Apply stripper to a third 2-by-4-foot (60-by-120-cm) section before you begin scrubbing the second section, so the stripper can soak in and do its work while you scrub the second section. Alternate sections like this until you complete the floor.
- As you strip sections of floor near the edge, look at the baseboard for dirty finish to see if it needs stripping as well.
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Repeat on tough sections if necessary. If you encounter a section where you can't scrub away all of the buildup, remove what you can and then reapply the stripper. Allow it to soak in while you work on another section and then scrub it again.
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Mop the floor with clean water and let dry. Mop the floor to make sure all traces of the stripper are gone and no longer acting on your floor. Even a "no rinse" stripper may cause damage, so this step is highly recommended.
- Allow the floor to dry completely before you wax it.
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Read the instructions on your wax or finish carefully to see if they differ from these. Waxes are products made from natural substances that seal and protect the floor, while finishes are synthetic. The instructions here should work well for waxes and some finishes, but read the instructions on the label as well. Finishes come in several varieties, and may require special application.
- Polyurethane finishes are among the most popular. Unlike a wax, they should be applied quickly in back-and-forth overlapping lines, not giving the edge time to dry.
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Use a new, clean mop. A brand-new mop is recommended to avoid introducing dirt into the new layer of wax or finish. A flat wax applier mop is best suited for this purpose, since the wax can be poured directly onto the mesh back of the mop.
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Work in an area with good air flow. You likely already set this up when you stripped the floor, but make sure all windows and doors are still open and/or fans are still circulating air with the outside. Most finishes are not as harmful as floor stripping solution, but they can still cause damage if too many fumes are inhaled.
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Fill a lined bucket with wax (if necessary). If you are using an ordinary mop, you will need to dip it into a bucket of the wax solution. Wax is difficult to clean off, so lining the bucket with a heavy-duty trash bag first is recommended. A wax applier mop can let you skip this step and pour the wax directly on the back of the mop.
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Apply wax in sections with a mop. Get your mop damp with wax, not soaked, using the wringer on a mop bucket if necessary. Apply a thin coat over the floor, working in sections from one end of the room to the other. Leave the section nearest the exit until last to avoid getting trapped.
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Let the wax dry completely. Depending on temperature and humidity, the wax or finish could dry in ten minutes or thirty. A fan providing good air flow will speed up the drying, but do not point it directly at the floor, as this could interfere with the wax's setting process. [2] X Research source
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Apply additional layers the same way. Most finishes and waxes require two to five layers for a good, protective seal. Read the label on your product to determine how many layers to use. Allowing each layer to dry completely before applying the next keeps the wax even and avoids buildup of excess wax.
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Buff the floor if necessary. Many modern waxes and finishes do not require buffing, or polishing. If the product advertises "no buffing" or if the floor looks glossy and attractive once dry, you may skip this step. Otherwise, polish the floor in a circular motion with a buffing pad or a dry terry cloth towel tied around a clean mop. For large spaces, rent a burnishing machine to hasten the process.
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Community Q&A
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QuestionDo I put a sealer down first or last over the waxed floor?Community AnswerDepends on the floor. Hardwood wouldn't take sealer, just stain and finish. Vinyl composite tiles you would strip/clean, seal, then polish/wax.
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QuestionCan polyurethane be used on floors?Community AnswerPolyurethane is a finish, not a wax. Wax goes over your floor finish to protect it, and some floor finishes should not be waxed (polyurethane is one of these). Wax is easily stripped-off with an ammonia solution, mop, and floor cleaner. Polyurethane must be stripped with furniture-stripping chemicals, putty knives, solvents, steel wool, and a whole lot of elbow grease.
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QuestionHow long should I wait after stripping a floor to wax and finish it?Community AnswerAfter mopping to remove any leftover stripper, allow the floor to dry thoroughly before you apply the wax. The time depends on humidity levels, air flow, etc.
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Tips
- Apply thin multiple thin coats of floor finish. Let cure overnight, then burnish the floor with a high speed machine 1500 + RPM.Thanks
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Warnings
- If you have asbestos tile floors, do not strip the floor. Instead, use a strong, safe degreaser to scrub the floor.Thanks
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Things You'll Need
- rubber gloves
- goggles
- floor finish stripper
- electric floor scrubber (recommended for large jobs; can be rented)
- wet-dry vacuum (recommended; can be rented)
- two mops
- several scrub pads (black is preferred)
- toothbrush
- putty knife
- floor squeegee (if you do not have a wet-dry vacuum)
- rags
- three buckets
- floor wax or floor finish
References
About This Article
Article Summary
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To strip and wax a floor, start by purchasing a floor finish stripper specifically designed for your flooring. Next, mix the stripper with water according to the instructions and mop it over the floor. Then, use a squeegee to remove the wax and stripper, soak up the excess liquid with rags, and mop the floor with clean water. After the floor dries, apply a thin coat of wax with a clean mop, then let it dry completely for 10-30 minutes. Finally, reapply the wax according to the package instructions. For more tips, like how to strip hard-to-reach floor areas, read on!
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Reader Success Stories
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"You explained all well. Sounds like I'll need most of a day to strip and wax a couple rooms properly. I'll be sure to charge a lot, especially with all I'll have to buy!"
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