How to Wear a Handkerchief

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Handkerchiefs are a common accessory that can be used as pocket squares with multiple variations, or they can be used as a stylish headband. For formal occasions, a pocket square in a flat fold or one-point fold is considered the best choice. For more casual occasions, you can sport a puff fold pocket square. A handkerchief tucked under your hair and knotted in the front is a classic style that still looks good.

Method 1
Method 1 of 4:

Folding a Flat Pocket Square

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  1. If it has been recently washed, or has been folded for a long time, you may want to iron it so you can start with it unwrinkled. You can lay it on your dresser if you are in your bedroom, or the kitchen table or countertop.
    • Make sure the surface you lay it on is clean and dry so you don’t mess up the handkerchief.
    • Pay attention to the fabric type and follow guidelines for ironing that particular fabric.
  2. Fold the left side across so it lines up evenly with the right side. You want to make sure the edges stay lined up. You can iron the fold to add crispness to the crease. [1]
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  3. If you are using a small handkerchief or pocket square, you may not need to perform this second fold. It depends on the size of the handkerchief and the size of the pocket you will place it in.
    • If folding it in half a second time makes it too narrow, you can try folding it just a third of the way across on the second fold.
    • If you fold it a second time and it is still too wide for the pocket, then you should consider using a smaller handkerchief.
  4. You don’t want the part you have folded to stick out of the top of the pocket, so pay attention to how much you should fold it. You also need to pay attention to how deep the pocket is to make sure the handkerchiefs sits on the bottom of the pocket.
  5. You’ll want to look at yourself in a mirror, or get the help of a friend, to make sure the pocket square is sticking out of your pocket just the right amount. You want roughly 1 in (2.5 cm) or less to be peeking out of the pocket.
    • This look is best for formal, black-tie attire. A white pocket square with a black suit is the perfect look.
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Method 2
Method 2 of 4:

Folding a One-Point Pocket Square

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  1. On a flat, clean surface, lay the handkerchief out flat and smooth it as much as possible. One corner should be near you and one should be opposite you.
  2. Lift the corner that is closest to you and fold it up to the further corner. Make sure the edges are lined up as much as possible. With your left hand holding the handkerchief down against the table, smooth the crease with your right hand.
  3. Place the index finger of your right hand in the middle of the crease at the bottom of the handkerchief. Lift the left corner and fold it across to the spot where your finger is.
  4. Take the index finger of your left hand and place it on the bottom left corner of the handkerchief. Lift the right corner with your right hand and fold it over to the place of your left index finger.
    • Be sure to smooth out all of the creases again.
    • At this point, you can also iron the handkerchief briefly to make the creases are nice and tight.
  5. Gently stuff the flat part of the handkerchief into your pocket, leaving 1-2 inches of the point sticking out the top of the pocket.
    • When you place it into your pocket, the folded parts should be against your chest.
    • Ideally, the bottom of the handkerchief will rest on the bottom of the pocket, but it depends on the relative size of the pocket and handkerchief.
    • This style works best with a solid color pocket square. The one point fold is good for formal or semi-formal occasions.
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Method 3
Method 3 of 4:

Folding a Puffed Pocket Square

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  1. Make sure the surface is clean before you lay the handkerchief down. There’s no need to smooth the handkerchief out for this fold. It also does not matter how the corners are aligned.
  2. Using your thumb and index finger, pinch the center of the handkerchief and lift it up off of the table. The handkerchief will be hanging loose. The part you pinch will be the part that sticks out of your pocket.
  3. With the hand not already holding the handkerchief, form a circle around the cloth with thumb and index finger. Gently slide your circled fingers down the handkerchief, gathering it more tightly together.
    • Start at the top and stop once your hand is about halfway down the handkerchief.
  4. Let go of the pinched part and hold with your non-dominant hand. Then use your dominant hand to fold the corners up behind your other hand. When you place the handkerchief in your pocket, the corners will rest against your chest. [2]
  5. As you fit the puff into your pocket, it may take a little more adjusting than other pocket square folds. Stuff it to the bottom of your pocket, then gently pull out a couple of inches. Adjust the shape to your taste.
    • The puff fold is not good for formal occasions. Use it to add a touch of classiness to a casual suit in non-formal settings.
    • Feel free to use a patterned handkerchief as this fold is casual anyway.
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Method 4
Method 4 of 4:

Folding a Headband

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  1. With the handkerchief lying on a flat surface, and one corner point toward you, fold the bottom corner up to the top corner. Your handkerchief should not form a triangle. Smooth the crease at the bottom.
  2. Keeping the corners that are touching aligned, fold them down to the bottom of the handkerchief where it is folded. When you fold the point down, make sure it hits at the center of the fold. [3]
  3. Pinching one end of the handkerchief with each hand, fold it in half lengthwise. Make sure that the two creases that are now touching are lined up well. Smooth the whole handkerchief down so that it is as flat as possible.
  4. If you have long hair, this handkerchief style will work best if it is pulled up rather than hanging down. Your hair should be pulled up at least higher than the base of your skull for the best results. [4]
  5. Grip the ends of the handkerchief and lift it over your head so that the middle of the handkerchief rests against your head under the hair in the back. Then tie the loose ends at the front of your head, just above your forehead. [5]
  6. Tie a second knot to secure the handkerchief in place. Then to make the front look better, tuck the loose ends under the band so that you can no longer see them.
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Expert Q&A

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  • Question
    What are some ways a woman can style a handkerchief?
    Jordan Stolch
    Image Consultant & Style Advisor
    Jordan Stolch is an Image Strategist, Style Advisor, and the Founder of MiKADO - a concierge personal styling firm. With over a decade of experience, Jordan specializes in helping people eliminate the confusion and insecurities associated with how to dress in order to build a powerful image and use clothing to their strategic advantage. Jordan trains entrepreneurs, business leaders, and corporate executives in the foundations of "power dressing", from some of the country's preeminent companies such as Morgan Stanley, Deloitte, Berkshire Hathaway, Universal Music Group, Starbucks, and Disney. She works with clients both in-person and virtually, teaching them how to take the confusion out of style so they can operate at a higher level. Jordan earned her BA in Psychology from the University of Waterloo and studied Merchandise Marketing at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIDM).
    Jordan Stolch
    Image Consultant & Style Advisor
    Expert Answer
    If it's long enough, you can roll it to about 2" wide and tie it around your neck, almost like a flight attendant. You could also fold it into a triangle then roll it about halfway, so the bottom point of the triangle is still showing, then tie it in a bow behind your hair.
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  • Question
    I cleaned my handkerchief, but it still looks dirty. What can I do?
    Community Answer
    Some stains might not always come off, so you may have to make the best of it, or get a new handkerchief.
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  • Question
    Why does it have to be an ugly green!?
    CageyCat
    Top Answerer
    You can choose the color or colors you want. It does not need to match the color shown in the article.
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      Warnings

      • The types of handkerchiefs that are meant to be used as pocket squares are typically smaller than what you would use for a headband. Make sure you have the right size handkerchief for whichever purpose you intend to use it for.
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      • Some handkerchiefs have a tag, so when using these for a pocket square, make sure the tag is hidden once the handkerchief is stuffed into your pocket.
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      References

      1. ↑ https://www.bows-n-ties.com/flat-pocket-square-fold/
      2. ↑ http://www.artofmanliness.com/2008/06/15/how-to-fold-a-pocket-square/
      3. ↑ http://keikolynn.com/2011/07/head-scarf-tutorial.html
      4. ↑ Jordan Stolch. Image Consultant & Style Advisor. Expert Interview. 3 November 2020.
      5. ↑ https://www.madison-reed.com/blog/hair-tutorial-how-to-tie-a-bandana
      6. ↑ Jordan Stolch. Image Consultant & Style Advisor. Expert Interview. 3 November 2020.

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