A Complete Guide to Doc Martens Lace Code

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Find out what shoelace color means in the punk scene
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Beginning in the 1970s, a small group of people laced combat boots in specific colors that communicated something about the wearer, like their political or social affiliations. Today, most people just choose their lace colors based on aesthetics, but thanks to the current punk revival, people are still talking about lace code today. We’re here with everything you need to know about lace code, from the meaning of each color to whether it's still being used.

What is lace code?

Lace code is the practice of ladder-lacing combat boots (usually Doc Martens) with symbolically-colored laces. Red and white laces often symbolize white supremacy, blue laces protest inequality, yellow laces stand for anti-racism, purple laces signal someone is LGBTQ+, and green or black laces are neutral.

Section 1 of 6:

What do the colors mean in lace code?

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  1. Green laces are a popular alternative to neutral black laces. They can also indicate that you’re passionate about sustainability and protecting the environment.
    • In some circles, green may symbolize that you’re of Irish descent.
  2. Pink is widely used to represent feminist causes, and lace code is no different. If you see pink laces, the wearer is probably passionate about womens’ health and rights.
    • Pink laces can also symbolize the fight for LGBTQ+ rights.
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  3. When lace code originated in the 70s, being openly gay could be dangerous. Purple laces became a subtle way for people to communicate their sexual preference. [1]
    • The color purple is still often used to represent the queer community today.
  4. Yellow and orange laces are popular with SHARPS (Skinheads Against Racial Prejudice). But even though the message takes a stance against racism, it has aggressive undertones—some SHARPS are known for violent activism, so wearing this color could potentially lead to confrontation. [2]
    • Some Docs come with yellow and orange striped laces—wearing these is generally seen as a neutral choice.
  5. Although some people just wear red laces because they like them, people who follow lace code often wear red laces to symbolize that they're violent or ready for a fight. It's also worth noting that some anarchist and neo-Nazi groups also wear red laces to show their affiliation. [3]
    • In some areas, wearing red laces can lead to a confrontation, usually with someone who wants to keep racism out of their community. If you choose to wear red laces, be mindful of where you're traveling.
    • Some groups require members to earn their red laces by committing an act of violence.
  6. In lace code, white laces are sometimes used to symbolize white supremacy or white pride. Today, most people just wear white laces because they’re the easiest to find, but it may still be best to choose a different color if you want to avoid the association. [4]
    • White laces are commonly worn by groups like the KKK and neo-Nazis—separate groups with similar hate-based ideologies.
  7. People sometimes wear blue laces to protest police brutality, inequality, and institutional racism. But it can take on a more sinister meaning—in some circles, blue laces indicate that a person has killed a police officer or supports violence against law enforcement. [5]
    • Blue laces are sometimes worn by SHARPS.
    • For some people, this symbol is meant to be inspirational, symbolizing that you support peace and justice or you’re an ally of marginalized or oppressed groups.
  8. Most Docs come with black laces, and keeping the original laces doesn’t really send a message. If you’re intentionally trying to choose a neutral or ambiguous option, this is a good choice. [6]
    • If you ladder-lace your boots, it may emphasize your neutral position, since that’s the style used in lace code.
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Section 2 of 6:

Is lace code dead?

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  1. Most people choose their lace colors based on aesthetics. But in some circles, it may still be taken seriously, so if you’re going to be somewhere with a with a strong underground scene—like a punk show or a political rally—you may want to wear a neutral color like black or green.
    • Red laces may still be used by hate groups in some areas, so it’s best to avoid that color if you don’t want to be associated with those values.
Section 3 of 6:

Can you mix colors in lace code?

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  1. Typically in lace code, people choose one color to send a strong message. But if you’ve decided to try lace code for yourself, you can mix and match colors to send your own message.
    • For instance, you might wear purple in one boot and yellow in the other to send the message that you’re a queer anti-racist.
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Section 4 of 6:

Does lace code apply to all shoes?

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  1. Doc Martens are the most popular brand, but you can use any brand of boots. [7] But in groups that use lace code to identify members, the code probably still applies even if you’re wearing a different style of shoe.
    • Because red laces are widely associated with violence and racism, some people choose to avoid them in any shoe style.
Section 5 of 6:

How do you lace your shoes for lace code?

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  1. To ladder lace your shoes, thread the shoestring so the ends come up through the last pair of eyelets (closest to the toe). Bring one end of the shoestring down through the hole directly above it on the same side, then cross that shoelace across and up through the eyelet parallel to that one. [8]
    • Repeat with the other side of the shoestring on the second set of holes—the string will be doubled up in a straight line across this pair of eyelets.
    • Keep going with both strings on each set of eyelets, all the way up the shoes.
    • This is similar to a straight-lace style, but in ladder lacing, the vertical passes of the laces are visible, and in straight-lacing, they're hidden.
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Section 6 of 6:

Final Takeaways

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  1. You shouldn’t necessarily assume that just because someone wears white shoelaces in their boots, they’re a racist—these days, it’s pretty likely that they just liked the look.
    • That said, it’s a good idea to be aware of what the colors mean—in some areas, a few people may still recognize lace code, and it could lead to conflict if you’re wearing the wrong color in the wrong place.

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      References

      1. ↑ https://fchornetmedia.com/1907/inside-fullerton/lace-code-was-once-an-informal-way-to-express-yourself-in-the-punk-scene-but-is-it-still-used-today/
      2. ↑ https://fchornetmedia.com/1907/inside-fullerton/lace-code-was-once-an-informal-way-to-express-yourself-in-the-punk-scene-but-is-it-still-used-today/
      3. ↑ https://www.adl.org/resources/hate-symbol/boots-and-laces
      4. ↑ https://www.adl.org/resources/hate-symbol/boots-and-laces
      5. ↑ https://fchornetmedia.com/1907/inside-fullerton/lace-code-was-once-an-informal-way-to-express-yourself-in-the-punk-scene-but-is-it-still-used-today/
      6. ↑ https://fchornetmedia.com/1907/inside-fullerton/lace-code-was-once-an-informal-way-to-express-yourself-in-the-punk-scene-but-is-it-still-used-today/
      7. ↑ https://www.adl.org/resources/hate-symbol/boots-and-laces
      8. ↑ https://youtu.be/353cZDPcmzQ?t=28

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        Jan 27

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