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Plus, things you should avoid saying when buying a used car
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If you’re in the market for a used car, it’s important to know the right questions to ask to ensure you’re buying a quality car and getting a good deal. Whether you’re looking at a used car from a car dealer or private seller, we’ve compiled the best questions to ask with the help of expert car brokers and finance executives. Plus, we’ll give you some general advice to keep in mind when shopping for a car. Read on to learn more!

What to Ask When Buying a Used Car

  1. Can you provide the car’s history report?
  2. Can I get the car inspected by a mechanic?
  3. Can I test-drive the car?
  4. Why are you selling the car?
  5. How old is the car?
  6. What’s the car’s mileage?
Section 1 of 5:

General Questions to Ask

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  1. A car’s history report tells you a lot about the car, like the number of owners, how long they owned the car, how often it was serviced, any open recalls, and if it was in any accidents. This is a really easy way to learn about the previous owners and check how well the car was maintained. [1]
    • Make sure the history report was run the day you’re inspecting the vehicle. If a dealer or seller gives you a months-old report, Hamby warns that there are “so many things that could've happened” between the time the report was run and you checking out the car.
    • Hamby says most dealers provide you with a free history report. Some private dealers might provide you with one, but you may have to run it yourself.
    • To run your own history report, go to CarFax or AutoCheck and enter the car’s VIN. [2] Hamby says your first report is typically free, and then each report costs around $30.
  2. 2
    “What is the car’s maintenance history?” While the car’s history report usually tells you when and where the car was serviced and what was done, it might leave out some instances, as not all mechanic shops report their services. The report also doesn’t include any maintenance the owner might have done themselves. So, ask the dealer or seller if they have a detailed report of the car’s service history (along with receipts). [3]
    • Hamby says to pay special attention to how often the car received basic maintenance, like oil changes (which should occur about every 6-12 months), to help ensure it’s in good, running condition.
    • Ensure the previous owner followed the car’s recommended maintenance schedule, like when to rotate the tires and change the battery. Hamby advises asking the dealer what the car’s maintenance schedule is, or looking it up online.
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  3. 3
    “Are there any known maintenance issues?” Check about any issues the car has now, as well as any previous issues it had and upcoming recommended servicing the car might need. This tells you if you might have to make any costly fixes in the near future, which could affect your budget. [4]
    • For example, older cars or cars with a lot of miles might be nearing major maintenance milestones and need parts replaced soon.
  4. 4
    “Was the car in any accidents?” The car’s history report should tell you about any accidents the car has been in, but it’s always a good idea to confirm them with the dealer or seller. If there were any accidents, make sure to ask how bad the damage was and if it was repaired (with proof). [5]
    • A minor fender bender may have been mostly cosmetic, but a major accident usually indicates significant damage to the car that can lead to more wear and tear. It’s also possible that the issue wasn’t fixed properly, so there could be issues with the car down the line. [6]
  5. 5
    “Can I take the car to a mechanic for an inspection?” Unfortunately, you can’t always trust a dealer or seller to tell you the truth about the car’s condition—even if you have a history report. Hamby highly recommends getting the car checked out by a third-party mechanic or friend who’s knowledgeable about cars, especially if you’re going through a private seller. The mechanic will point out any current issues or things you might need to fix down the road.
    • If the mechanic finds issues, ask them to write down what they are and what they’d cost to fix. If the mechanic says the issues aren’t dealbreakers, you can use the cost of the repairs to negotiate the price of the car. [7]
    • Hamby says most inspections cost around $125 to $400.
    • If the dealer or seller won’t let you drive the car to a mechanic, ask your mechanic if they’ll come to the car. If the seller or dealer doesn’t like that option either, ask them if they’d be willing to drive the car to your chosen mechanic. [8]
    • In general, it’s considered a red flag if the dealership or seller doesn’t allow a third-party inspection. This might be a sign that there are mechanical issues they’re trying to hide, so it’s best to walk away from the car.
  6. 6
    “Can I test drive the car?” Hamby agrees that you definitely want to “do a test drive on the car” to ensure it drives well, it doesn’t have any obvious issues, and you like how it feels. He suggests paying special attention to the following areas to make sure the car is in good condition:
    • Check the tire alignment and balance : Drive on a flat road and ensure the car doesn’t pull to the left or right.
    • Test the car at high speeds : If possible, drive the car on the freeway to make sure the car doesn’t wobble, pull to one side, or lead to intense vibrations.
    • Check the brakes : Ensure the brakes engage smoothly, don’t cause the car to pull to one side, and don’t make any loud noises or vibrations. Make sure the brake lights turn on, too.
    • Check the acceleration : Make sure the car accelerates smoothly and quickly and shifts into gear without hesitation. A well-maintained car should feel responsive and turn easily.
    • Listen for unusual noises : Turn down the music and AC to check for squeaking or grinding noises, or any other unexpected sounds that can indicate a problem.
  7. 7
    “Is there any damage to the exterior?” Inspect the body of the car carefully for any scratches, dents, or rust and the windows and mirrors for any cracks. Check out the tires to ensure they’re all the same brand and the treads aren’t worn. Also, look for dents and damage on the wheels and rims. Then, ensure all doors, the trunk, and the hood of the car open easily. [9]
    • Check that the headlights (high beams, fog, etc.), turn signals, and brake lights work, too. Hamby says “if they don't work, it could lead to an electrical issue that can become a major issue and be costly.”
    • Hamby recommends checking under the hood, too. He says to “check and see if the oil has been changed recently” and to “make sure your other fluids are level,” like the transmission fluid , brake fluid , coolant , and windshield wiper fluid .
    • Any issues you notice can help you negotiate the price of the car. If the used car is at a dealership, Hamby says the “dealer typically will have the resources to fix it” for you.
    EXPERT TIP

    Bryan Hamby

    Professional Auto Broker
    Bryan Hamby is the owner of Auto Broker Club, a trusted auto brokerage in Los Angeles, California. He founded Auto Broker Club in 2014 out of a passion for cars and a unique talent for customizing the car dealership process to be on the buyer’s side. With 1,400+ deals closed, and a 90% customer retention rate, Bryan’s focus is to simplify the car buying experience through transparency, fair pricing, and world class customer service.
    Bryan Hamby
    Professional Auto Broker

    Always inspect used cars during the day. It is much more difficult to identify any potential damage or issues in the dark. Don’t be afraid of taking a long time—inspect every bit of the car thoroughly.

  8. 8
    “Is there any damage to the interior?” Hamby says “the condition of the interior can definitely indicate how well the car's been taken care of,” so thoroughly check out the interior for “tears, stains, or burns.” He says to “turn on the air conditioner” to “make sure it can get cold quickly” and “that it blows hot air.” Then, “check the windows” to “make sure the windows roll up and down” and “check the locks.” Other things to check include:
    • The trunk : Hamby says to “make sure the truck doesn't look beat up” and like it’s “just not been taken care of.”
    • The seats : Make sure you can move the seats back and forth and to your preferred height, whether they’re manual or power seats, says Hamby.
    • The electronic accessories : Ensure the radio and entertainment systems work. For instance, test the navigation system and see if your phone pairs with Bluetooth or Apple CarPlay. [10]
    • The spare tire : Hamby also recommends that you “make sure there’s a spare tire”—“if one is not there, make sure to find out why.”
    • Odor : Take note of any musty or mildewy smells when you open the door, as this can indicate water damage or a leak. Also, sniff for cigarette or smoke odors—if you’re sensitive to these smells, they can be difficult to get rid of ( but not impossible !). [11]
  9. 9
    “How old is the car?” The age of the car can tell you a lot about how much it’s worth. Cars are notorious for their high depreciation, with most losing 20% of their value in the first year and an additional 10% each year after. So, a new car that’s priced lower might be a really good deal, while an older car that’s priced high likely is not. [12]
  10. 10
    “What is the car’s mileage?” How many miles the car has can tell you more about its condition and if it’s well priced: a car with more miles tends to have more wear and tear, but cost less. However, a used car with high mileage isn’t an automatic red flag. As long as the car is well-maintained and known for its reliability and longevity, like a Honda or Toyota, it’ll likely last for several more years. [13]
    • For example, Hamby says a car that “has low miles on it, but it looks beat up” might not be a good deal compared to a car that “has double the miles but has been well maintained.”
    • The average person drives around 12,000 miles per year, which can help you figure out if the car you’re looking at has a lot of miles for its age.
    • If possible, find out if the previous owner was primarily driving on the highway or in the city. In general, stop-and-go city driving is tougher on a car than highway driving.
  11. 11
    “How many previous owners are there and what’s their history?” Asking about ownership tells you how long the previous owners drove the car. The ownership history also tells you if the car was used as a rental or for ridesharing instead of personal use. [14]
    • Only owning the car for a short amount of time could mean there was something the previous owner didn’t like that you might not, either.
    • In general, rental and ridesharing cars have more wear and tear than personal use cars. However, this might not be an issue if the car is well-maintained.
  12. 12
    “Where was the car driven?” Where the car was driven can tell you more about the conditions it was exposed to and any damage it might have experienced. For instance, if the car was driven in an area where it floods a lot, it may have experienced water damage. If the car was driven in the far north, it might have lots of wear and tear from the snow and ice. [15]
  13. 13
    “Is the car covered under any warranties?” A warranty covers the cost of certain repairs to your car, so it’s helpful to know if the car comes with one. Hamby suggests that you ask if the warranty is “through the manufacturer or a 3rd party,” if “it is transferable,” and “how many months or miles are left” on it. Then, ask the dealer or seller to explain “what it covers.”
    • For instance, most manufacturers (like Honda or Toyota) provide coverage for the car’s powertrain system (engine, transmission), which typically lasts for 5 years or 60,000 miles. [16]
    • If the car doesn’t come with the manufacturer’s, dealer’s, or seller’s transferable warranty, Hamby recommends that you ask if they sell an extended warranty. Depending on the price, what it covers, and the condition of the car, an extended warranty might be a good option for you. [17]
  14. 14
    “What are your financing options?” If you’re planning on financing the car from a dealer instead of buying it in cash, it’s a good idea to find out what interest rates they’re offering. Even if you’re already pre-approved for a loan by your bank, Hamby says the “dealer might be able to get you a better auto loan because of their relationship with their lender.” If you know you want the car, he says to “disclose your pre-approval rate” and “ask them if they can beat it.”
    • As a follow-up, Hamby recommends asking if there is a prepayment penalty for the dealer’s financing. Some lenders might charge you a fee if you pay off your loan early, as the lender will end up collecting less interest from you. [18]
    • If you’re buying from a private seller , you can still take out a loan. Just make sure the seller accepts financing (as they might prefer cash). Then, shop around for lenders that offer loans for private sales. [19]
  15. 15
    “Do you have a return policy?” Some dealers have return policies, allowing you to buy the car, drive it around, and give it back if you notice any issues or simply don’t end up loving it. Get the dealer’s return policy in writing and carefully look it over for the time limit, any return fees, and any actions that might void the policy (such as damaging the car). [20]
    • Some states require dealers to provide some sort of return or cancelation policy, while others do not. So, don’t assume that your dealer offers one.
    • It doesn’t hurt to ask a private seller if they offer a return policy or a trial period, either. Just make sure you get their agreement and terms in writing.
  16. 16
    “Is anything else included in the sale of the car?” The dealer or private seller might throw in some extra accessories or services with the car to sweeten the deal, but they might end up costing you extra. Make sure these extras don’t put you over budget and ask to have any removed if you don’t want them. [21]
    • If you are interested in add-ons, find out how much they cost, if there’s a deductible, and if you can cancel or return them.
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Section 2 of 5:

Questions to Ask an Independent Seller

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  1. Asking the seller why they’re getting rid of their car can help you suss out if the car’s a good buy or if you want to walk away. A valid explanation, like the owner needing a bigger car, likely isn’t anything to raise your eyebrows at. However, if they evade the question or give you an overly elaborate answer, you probably want to be more wary of the car. [22]
    • If the owner doesn’t seem to want to tell you the truth about why they’re selling the car, it’s possible that something’s wrong with it and they need to get rid of it.
  2. 2
    “How long have you owned the car?” In general, be wary if the seller has only had the car for a short period of time before selling it. While they might have a reasonable explanation (like needing a larger car for their growing family), this can be a sign that there’s an issue with the car that they don’t want to deal with. [23]
    • Tip : Double-check that the seller is the person who primarily drove the car. You want to talk to the primary driver, as they likely have the most information about the car and can help you better figure out whether the car was responsibly cared for.
  3. 3
    “Do you have the title to the car?” If the seller can’t provide the title to the car, most experts agree you should walk away from the sale. This can indicate that the seller isn’t the actual owner of the car or that the car is stolen. [24] If the owner does have the title, Hamby advises that you confirm it’s “clear,” which means that “the car doesn’t have any history or current status as salvage” or rebuilt, and that there isn’t “any type of lien on the car.”
    • A salvage or rebuilt title means the car has experienced significant damage, which can be a cause of concern and indicate it's in poor condition. [25]
    • Hamby also advises confirming that “the title matches the name of the person selling you the vehicle” or “the person selling you the vehicle has power of attorney” to sell it.
    • Be wary of a seller who tells you that they lost the title, too. If you’re really interested in the car, ask them to get a replacement from the DMV before you buy the car or sign any documents.
  4. 4
    “Did you make any updates or changes to the car?” An updated sound system or fresh tires can increase the value of the car and make the deal more attractive to you. They can also tell you about what updates or changes you might want or need to make in the future, helping you prepare for their costs. [26]
    • Make sure the updates or changes are legal, too. For instance, your state might have laws about how tinted the windows can be.
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Section 3 of 5:

Questions to Ask Yourself

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  1. Before you ask the dealer or seller about the car and go see it, it’s important to figure out if it’s a fair price or not. Use a website like Kelley Blue Book or Edmunds to check the average value of the exact year, make, model, and trim style. Hamby also recommends checking what other sellers in your area are pricing the same exact car at to see if it’s a fair deal or not.
    • Information is your best weapon when looking at used cars. If the car seems like it's overpriced, that doesn’t mean you should walk away—knowing what it's really worth can give you room to negotiate.
  2. 2
    “How am I paying for the car? What is my budget?” Of course, it’s important to know what you can afford before you even start looking at used cars. Spend some time assessing your monthly expenses and savings and create a budget for yourself. [27] Then, determine if you can buy the car you want in cash, or if you need to get financing and take out a loan.
    • If you’re financing the car :
      • Hamby suggests getting pre-approved for a loan through a bank or credit union. They’ll assess your income and credit to see what you can afford and what interest rate you can expect.
      • Figure out what monthly payments you can afford . When it comes to your budget, finance expert Andrew Lokenauth says this is what you should be most concerned about. Make sure to factor in car insurance, gas, and maintenance costs, too.
      • Determine the loan term you want. Most lenders offer loans for 36, 48, 60, and 72 months. A longer loan makes your monthly payments smaller, but your total interest cost will be higher.
      • Estimate your total loan cost with an online calculator . Plug in the car price, interest rate, loan term, and down payment. Play around with different car prices, down payments, and loan terms to see how the monthly cost and total interest cost changes.
    • To help you figure out your budget, Lokenauth suggests thinking about whether your car will be an asset or not. He says if you’re using the car “to create income, then it would be an asset.” But, if you don’t use it often or it’s just for recreation, buying an expensive car “can be a waste of money.”
  3. 3
    “What does it cost to insure and maintain the car?” When you look at a used car, Hamby says “you want to look at not just the cost of the car, but also the costs to insure the car” and maintain it. Get free insurance quotes from multiple companies to determine the average price. Then, estimate how much you expect to pay for gas each month with a fuel cost calculator .
    • Hamby also recommends calling a few mechanics in your area and asking them: "How much would it cost to service this car,” “What are the service mileages that I need to know,” and “What are the costs for them?”
    • Check what it costs to register the car and get a new license on your state’s DMV website . While the dealer or seller may include this cost in the price of your car, you might have to pay for it yourself.
  4. 4
    “What do I want and need in a car?” Hamby notes that a car is typically the second largest purchase people make in their lives (after a home), so it’s important that you like what you buy ! He suggests reading reviews of the car(s) you like on Edmunds , KBB , and NHTSA , which can tell you about safety features and potential issues. Then, think about what you need and want, like safety features, size, storage space, fuel efficiency, and even color.
    • When you test drive the car, Hamby says it’s important to assess how you feel: Are you excited? Do you love it? Does the car feel “right” to you?
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Section 4 of 5:

What Not to Say to a Used Car Dealer

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  1. 1
    “I need my monthly car payments to be $X.” A savvy dealer can get you any car you want at your monthly price limit, but you might be paying off the loan for 6+ years and rack up a huge interest payment as a result. The number you give a dealer should only ever be the total price of the car that you can afford. [28]
    • This is why it’s important to set your budget and get pre-approved for financing before you set foot in a store. You’ll know exactly what car price you can afford for a set interest rate and loan term.
  2. 2
    “I love this car.” While you might want to rave about the car, it’s better to stay calm and act noncommittal. Dealers are looking for any sign that you won’t walk away so they can lock you into the sale. This can cause you to lose your negotiation power or even get talked into a deal that you’re not really ready to make. [29]
    • Hovanes Margarian, an attorney that specializes in automotive litigation, says: “One thing I would recommend is just simply not to rush when you're buying the car in order to get the best deal.” While it’s normal to be excited—and you should be!—try to keep your emotions in check. Remember to do your research before going all in on something just because you love it.
  3. 3
    “I need a new car ASAP.” Whether your car is on its last legs or your lease is almost up, you don’t want to say anything that a dealer can use to rush you into a sale you’re not prepared for. If they ask you why you need a new car and when you need it by, simply tell them that you’re just shopping around and don’t have a set timeframe (even if you really do!). [30]
    • If you know you’ll need a new car soon, start researching, setting your budget, and getting pre-approved for a loan 1 to 2 months before you plan on actually starting to shop.
    • Of course, there might be situations out of your control and you really do need a car ASAP. Spend as much time as you can researching cars and getting your finances in order before you talk to a dealer.
  4. 4
    “I’m paying in cash.” In general, there’s more room to bargain on the price of the car if the dealer thinks you might finance it. Most dealers make extra money from their financing plans, so they’re often more willing to cut you a deal to secure the sale. Avoid telling the dealer that you’re paying in cash for as long as possible—in the best-case scenario, wait until you’ve negotiated the car as far down as possible. [31]
    • When the dealer asks how you’ll be paying for the car, simply tell them that you’re undecided and weighing your options. You can even ask them what their financing plans are.
  5. 5
    “I have a car to trade in.” Hamby agrees that you “want to negotiate the trade-in separate from your new car purchase.” He says if you immediately tell the dealer that you have a trade-in, they’ll give you an “all-inclusive offer that focuses on a payment or the new car deal,” which “allows them to create a misleading offer.”
    • When the dealer asks you if you have a trade-in, tell them no. Once you’ve negotiated the price of the car, then tell them you have a trade-in to offer.
  6. 6
    “I don’t know much about cars/I’ve never bought a car before.” A dealer can potentially use your lack of knowledge and experience to pressure you into a sale or sell you a car you don’t actually want. Instead, research the car-buying process beforehand so you know what to expect and get familiar with the type of car and features you want. [32]
    • Bring a friend or family member with you when you go car shopping. They can be your sounding board, ask questions you haven’t thought of, and help you ensure you’re buying a good car.
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Section 5 of 5:

Advice for Buying a Used Car

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  1. Whether you buy a used car from a dealership or used car center, like CarMax, or from a private seller on Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace , Hamby says there are some important pros and cons to consider:
    • Dealer :
      • Pros : Standardized inspection process, resources to fix issues, generally more trustworthy
      • Cons : Less room to negotiate—some dealers even advertise “no-haggle pricing”
    • Private seller :
      • Pros : Better pricing, more room to negotiate
      • Cons : Car is sold as is, no real recourse if car has undisclosed issues, no required inspection
  2. 2
    Buy from a reputable dealer or private seller. Whether you’re buying from a private seller or dealership, Hamby says you want to make sure they have a good reputation. He suggests reading through the seller or dealer’s online reviews and asking friends and family if they’ve bought from them.
    • Watch out for scams when going through a private seller, agrees Hamby. Visit the car in person, inspect it closely, and ask the seller the questions above—never put down money without first ensuring the car actually exists.
  3. 3
    Negotiate on the price (if possible). If the car’s in good condition and you like it, negotiate the price down to get the best possible deal. While negotiating can be daunting, Hamby reminds you to walk into the sale with confidence: “you’ve done your research and you know the deal you want.” Simply give the dealer or seller the total, out-the-door price you’re willing to pay and be prepared to explain the reasoning behind your offer. [33]
    • For instance, you might tell the seller or dealer that the car is overpriced according to KBB, so you’re willing to pay the fair price they list. Or, you might reveal that you got a lower offer from a different seller and ask them if they can beat the price.
    • Set a slightly lower initial offer so you can negotiate with the seller and get it to the true price you’re willing to pay.
    • Stay calm and be firm with the price you’re willing to pay: the seller might tell you the number isn’t possible at first or try to throw in other add-ons to make their price sound better.
    • Ultimately, your best tactic is to walk away if the negotiations aren’t going anywhere. Telling the seller you need time to think might incentivize them to offer you the deal you want.
    • Note : Negotiating might not be possible if you’re buying the car from a dealer that offers no-haggle pricing, like CarMax.
  4. 4
    Get everything in writing. When the dealer or seller quotes you an interest rate, gives you their final out-the-door price, or promises to throw in a service you really want, make sure you get what they said in writing. Having a written record of their promises is the only way to ensure they deliver them. [34]
  5. While you might fall in love with a car or simply feel done shopping, it’s important to remember that this is a big purchase—you don’t want to rush into a sale or settle for a car that’s not what you want. If any of the answers to your questions raise flags, Hamby advises that you be willing to walk away. This can be tough to do, but it may save you money and potential heartbreak in the future.
    • It might take some more time to find your car, but know that there are plenty of used cars out there. Dealers are constantly moving through inventory and private sellers are always listing new cars. Keep your spirits high and keep checking to find the best car for you!
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