How to Take Care of Newborn Rabbits from Birth through Weaning

PDF download Download Article
Plus, how to feed orphaned newborn bunnies
PDF download Download Article

Baby rabbits are adorable, so it’s an exciting time if your female rabbit—known as a doe—is pregnant. The best thing you can do to prepare for baby rabbits (or kits) is to take care of the mother and provide a safe space for the kits. We’re here with everything you need to know about taking care of newborn bunnies, including what to do if the babies are abandoned , plus expert tips from veterinarians Alisa Rassin and Jamie Freyer on caring for rabbits.

How do you care for newborn rabbits?

Provide the mother rabbit with high-quality, protein-rich food, keep her enclosure clean, and provide a safe, sanitary nesting box. Don’t worry if she doesn’t stay with the babies after they’re born—she’ll only feed them once a day. Only intervene if the babies are dehydrated with shrunken bellies or wrinkled skin.

Section 1 of 4:

Creating a Nest for Newborn Rabbits

PDF download Download Article
  1. The nest box should be made of metal or wood with a removable floor. Choose a box that’s slightly larger than the mother—if it’s too big, the kits may not stay warm enough. Put a clean towel in the bottom of the box, and on top of that, fill the box about 2/3 of the way with fertilizer- and pesticide-free grass, straw, or hay as bedding. [1]
    • Make sure the towel you use doesn’t have any stray threads or holes—these could trap the kits.
    • If you don’t want to buy a nest box, you can make one out of a cardboard box—choose one that’s just a little larger than the mother rabbit and cut an opening that’s just big enough for her to get in and out of. Leave a 1 in (2.5 cm) at the bottom of the box to keep the kits inside the box.
  2. Your doe won’t need any help with the birthing process, which usually happens at night or in the very early hours of the morning. As soon as you suspect your doe has given birth—or kindled—check to see if any of the kits did not survive the birth. You may have to draw the mother away with a treat to get access to the nest box to remove any dead kits. [2]
    • The doe will typically consume the placenta, so you don’t need to do anything with that.
    • Briefly inspecting the kits will usually not cause the mother to abandon them, especially if she’s accustomed to your scent.
    • If the mother gave birth to any of the kits outside of the nest box, gently lift them and place them back with the rest of the litter so they can get warm again. If a kit is very cold or stiff, place a hot water bottle filled with warm water under the towel and bedding in the nest box.
    Advertisement
  3. Don’t be alarmed if you don’t actually see the doe nursing the kits. Nursing typically only happens once or twice a day for about 5 minutes at a time. Instead, look for signs that she’s nursed—the babies will be warm and have round tummies from feeding. They’ll also be quiet instead of making mewling noises like a kitten if they’re well fed. [3]
    • Because rabbits are prey animals, the doe’s natural instinct is to stay away from the nest most of the time. In the wild, this helps draw predators away from the nest.
  4. The doe will need constant access to food and water to eat at will while she’s nursing the kits. This is to ensure she produces enough milk to adequately feed the litter. Put out plenty of fresh food daily and check her water often, as she’ll drink more than normal as well. [4]
    • Ensuring that she receives proper nutrition will also help reduce the possibility of the mother cannibalizing the kits.
    5. Advertisement
Section 2 of 4:

Caring for Baby Rabbits as the Grow

PDF download Download Article
  1. 1
    Monitor the bunnies’ development, but limit handling for the first 4 weeks. For the first few weeks, the doe should provide the kits with all the care they need. As long as they’re healthy, only handle the kits when you have to move them to clean the nest box. Here’s what to expect after they’re born:
    • Week 1: The kits will be hairless, blind, and deaf when they’re born. After about 5 days, they’ll be able to hear.
    • Week 2: The bunnies should start opening their eyes around day 10, and by the end of the second week, they’ll start developing fuzz.
    • Weeks 3–4: At this point, it’s okay to briefly pick up the kits to get them used to being handled—but don’t hold them for too long, as it could cause them to be stressed.
    • Weeks 5–7: The baby bunnies will be more independent at this point. Handle them regularly so they’ll be acclimated to human interaction.
  2. The babies will toilet in the box until they are strong enough to eventually climb out of it on their own, so you’ll need to clean the box daily, providing a new, dry bottom towel and clean bedding. [5]
    • Most nest boxes have a removable bottom for easy cleaning. Carefully lift the kits out of the box, placing them in a cozy spot of the mother’s hutch while you clean out the nesting box. When you’re finished, put the babies back in the box.
    • Care for the doe like you normally would, including cleaning her pen daily.
  3. Once you see the babies starting to climb in and out of the nest box, turn it on its side to make it easier for them to move around. They’ll start exploring their enclosure, and the doe can get on top of the nesting box if she needs a break from the litter. [6]
  4. 4
    Introduce food after 2 weeks and allow the kits to wean naturally. Once the kits start exploring, they’ll likely start tasting their mother’s pellet food. Over the next few weeks, the babies will slowly decrease nursing and increase their consumption of pellets. However, it’s important that they continue to nurse as well as the mother’s milk provides antibodies against pathogens. If they are weaned too soon, their immune systems might not yet be strong enough without these antibodies.
    • Call your vet right away if the rabbits develop diarrhea—baby bunnies are prone to bacterial infections in the digestive tract, and these can quickly become fatal. [7]
    • During this time, the babies may consume some of the doe’s night droppings, called cecotropes. This is a natural process that helps introduce healthy bacteria into the kits’ digestive systems. And according to Rassin, it helps provide the rabbits with essential vitamins and minerals.
    • Don’t give the baby rabbits greens until they’re fully grown due to the potential for digestive complications. You can try tiny bits of one item at a time starting around two months, but remove it from the rabbit’s diet immediately if it causes intestinal problems such as diarrhea.
    EXPERT TIP

    Alisa Rassin

    Exotics Veterinarian
    Alias Rassin is an Exotics Veterinarian and the Owner of The Exotic Animal Hospital of Pennsylvania in Lansdowne, Pennsylvania. With over a decade of experience, she specializes in treating reptiles, birds, and small mammals. She holds a Veterinariae Medicinae Doctoris from The University of Pennsylvania and a BS in Veterinary Biomedical and Clinical Sciences from Penn State University. She was also certified by the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons.
    Alisa Rassin
    Exotics Veterinarian

    Pay attention to what your individual rabbit is able to digest. Common greens for rabbits include romaine, green leaf, and red leaf lettuce, dandelion greens, and herbs like cilantro or parsley. Only offer kale or spinach in very small quantities—these can potentially lead to bladder or kidney stones.

  5. 5
    Remove the kits from their mother by the time they’re 8 weeks old. Rabbits can be weaned as early as 5 weeks, but it’s best to let them stay with their mother until they’re about 8 weeks old. By the time they’re 8 weeks old, though, male kits are mature enough to potentially mate, so they should be separated from their mother and female kits at this point.
    • To tell the sex of a rabbit , carefully hold it with one hand under its chest and one hand under its bottom, with its back firmly against your chest. Carefully part the fur above its genitals and press gently—if you see an opening near the anus, the rabbit is a female, and if it’s a male, the sex organ will emerge just above the anus. [8]
    6. Advertisement
Section 3 of 4:

Hand-Feeding Orphaned or Abandoned Bunnies

PDF download Download Article
  1. If the babies are weak (barely respond to being handled), have sunken tummies or wrinkly skin, or seem cold and bluish, then the mother isn’t properly nursing them. Reach out to your vet—they may be able to help stimulate the mother to produce milk and can give you instructions on how to bottle-feed the babies if necessary. [9]
    • Also contact your vet if the litter has more than eight kits, as this may be too large a number for the mother to support all of them.
    • Hand-feeding baby rabbits should only be done in an emergency situation when you’re absolutely sure the doe isn’t feeding the kits—like if they’re obviously struggling or the mother has died.
  2. 2
    Make replacement milk from goat milk and kitten milk. Mix 1 ⁄ 2 cup (0.12 l) of fresh goat milk, 1 ⁄ 2 cup (0.12 l) of kitten milk replacer (KMR), 1/2 tsp (1 ml) of heavy cream, and 1 tbsp (10 emptied capsules) of freeze-dried colostrum . Gently heat the mixture up to about 105 °F (41 °C) so the kits will be more likely to accept the formula. [10]
    • You may be able to find powdered colostrum locally at a health food store. This is an essential addition for newborn bunnies that have never fed from their mother.
  3. 3
    Pour the replacement milk into a sterilized syringe. To sterilize the equipment you’ll use to feed the baby kits, place the syringe and nipple into a steam sterilization bag . Follow the instructions on the bag—usually, you’ll place it into the microwave or over a pot of boiling water for a certain amount of time to kill any bacteria that could harm the kits. [11]
    • Use a nursing nipple designed for rabbits or squirrels. The nipples meant for feeding kittens are too big for baby rabbits. If your local pet store only sells the kind for kittens, use that and order baby rabbit syringes and nipples right away so they’ll arrive as quickly as possible. [12]
  4. 4
    Hold a kit on your lap and slowly drip milk onto its mouth. Wrap the bottle in a soft washcloth to mimic the mother’s body, then hold the bottle in one hand and the kit in the other hand. The kit may suckle from the nipple, but more often, you’ll need to just drip a single drop of milk onto the kit’s mouth so it can lick away the formula.
    • This can be a slow process, so be patient. Never try to force formula into the kit’s mouth—it can aspirate the liquid.
    • Over time, the babies should get stronger and accept the formula more eagerly.
    • For the first week, give each kit around 2 cc (2 ml) of formula twice a day. Over the next week, increase that to 5–7 cc/ml per feeding. When the kits are 2 weeks old, give them 7–13 cc/ml per feeding, and increase that to 13–15 per feeding when they’re 3–6 weeks old.
  5. 5
    Find a donor for cecotropes when the kits are 3 weeks old. It’s not a pleasant part of rabbit rearing, but if you’re hand-feeding kits, you’ll need to obtain cecotropes, or night droppings, from a donor rabbit. These nighttime droppings are rich in nutrients and beneficial bacteria that are essential for the baby rabbits’ healthy development. Once you get the cecotropes, mix them into a small amount of formula. [13]
    • You may need to offer cecotropes several times over the next few weeks.
    • Ask your vet if they know of anyone who would be willing to donate cecotropes.
  6. 6
    Stimulate the kits to empty their bowels. If the kits aren’t being cared for by their mother, dip a cotton ball in warm water and rub it across the kits’ bottoms to encourage them to go to the bathroom. They won’t be able to go on their own until they’re several weeks old, and this is an essential part of keeping abandoned kits healthy. [14]
  7. 7
    Wean the kits at 8 weeks by diluting the formula. Offer pellet foods starting when the kits are about 2–3 weeks old, but don’t expect them to be fully weaned until they’re about 8 weeks old. Some kits will transition to solid food without much help, but if they still look for formula at that point, dilute the formula with about 25% for a few days, gradually adding more water until the kits stop showing interest. [15]
    8. Advertisement
Section 4 of 4:

Preparing for the Arrival of Newborn Rabbits

PDF download Download Article
  1. A normal adult rabbit needs a feed that’s about 12% protein, but if your doe is expecting, give her a pellet that contains about 15% protein instead. If you don’t want to buy multiple feeds, opt for one that contains 16–17% protein , since that’s what she’ll need when she’s nursing. [16] Ideally, the feed should also contain about 18–22% fiber and 3% or less of fat. [17]
    • Feed your doe about 4–6 oz (110–170 g) of pellets a day while she’s pregnant, 12–16 oz (340–450 g) a day for the first 3–5 days after she gives birth, and free access to food while she’s nursing.
    • The doe should also have constant access to clean water, which you should change two to three times per day.
    • You can supplement her diet while she is gestating and weaning the kits (babies) by giving her alfalfa hay or cubes to provide more protein. [18]
    EXPERT TIP

    Alisa Rassin

    Exotics Veterinarian
    Alias Rassin is an Exotics Veterinarian and the Owner of The Exotic Animal Hospital of Pennsylvania in Lansdowne, Pennsylvania. With over a decade of experience, she specializes in treating reptiles, birds, and small mammals. She holds a Veterinariae Medicinae Doctoris from The University of Pennsylvania and a BS in Veterinary Biomedical and Clinical Sciences from Penn State University. She was also certified by the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons.
    Alisa Rassin
    Exotics Veterinarian

    Your rabbit’s main food should be a high-quality pellet. Don’t use a food that has fruity bits or other treats added—bunnies will pick out the good bits and leave behind the healthy part. You can also offer a selection of green veggies once a day.

  2. It is uncommon for the male rabbit to harm the baby rabbits, or kits. However, the male can impregnate the female again as soon as she gives birth, resulting in another pregnancy before she finishes weaning the first litter. To avoid this, you should separate the two rabbits as birthing draws closer. [19]
  3. 3
    Put the nest box in the enclosure 28 days after breeding, if possible. If you know about when your rabbit was bred, plan ahead. Rabbit pregnancies usually last about 31–33 days, but it’s a good idea to put the box in a few days early in case the doe gives birth early. Don’t put it in earlier than that, though, or the box could become contaminated. [20]
    • The female might rearrange the bedding in the box or even pull out some of her fur to add to the bedding. This is fine and is usually a sign that the birth is close.
    • Place the cage in a quiet, darkened space. Too much activity around the mother and her new kits will cause her undue stress.
    4. Advertisement

Expert Q&A

Search
Add New Question
  • Question
    Should we let mamma rabbit out of the cage for a break away from the babies?
    Pippa Elliott, MRCVS
    Veterinarian
    Dr. Elliott, BVMS, MRCVS is a veterinarian with over 30 years of experience in veterinary surgery and companion animal practice. She graduated from the University of Glasgow in 1987 with a degree in veterinary medicine and surgery. She has worked at the same animal clinic in her hometown for over 20 years.
    Pippa Elliott, MRCVS
    Veterinarian
    Expert Answer
    Yes. Mother rabbits often leave their young for hours at a time, so she will appreciate the opportunity to take a break. Just make sure that she can access the cage and return to her babies whenever she wants to. Try leaving the cage door open and provide a ramp for the mother rabbit so that she can return when she is ready.
    Thanks! We're glad this was helpful.
    Thank you for your feedback.
    If wikiHow has helped you, please consider a small contribution to support us in helping more readers like you. We’re committed to providing the world with free how-to resources, and even $1 helps us in our mission. Support wikiHow
    Yes No
    Not Helpful 31 Helpful 209
  • Question
    Should I hand-rear baby rabbits if the mother ignores them?
    Pippa Elliott, MRCVS
    Veterinarian
    Dr. Elliott, BVMS, MRCVS is a veterinarian with over 30 years of experience in veterinary surgery and companion animal practice. She graduated from the University of Glasgow in 1987 with a degree in veterinary medicine and surgery. She has worked at the same animal clinic in her hometown for over 20 years.
    Pippa Elliott, MRCVS
    Veterinarian
    Expert Answer
    Where possible let the mother rabbit take care of the babies, as hand-rearing a rabbit is fraught with problems. Be aware that the mother only feeds her babies twice a day and she may well leave them unattended for long periods in between. Thus, although the babies may appear abandoned, if the mother can still get back to them the chances are they are not in difficulties. If you know the mother is dead, then feed twice a day (as she would) to tide them over until they are two to three weeks of age, when they start eating solid foods.
    Thanks! We're glad this was helpful.
    Thank you for your feedback.
    If wikiHow has helped you, please consider a small contribution to support us in helping more readers like you. We’re committed to providing the world with free how-to resources, and even $1 helps us in our mission. Support wikiHow
    Yes No
    Not Helpful 32 Helpful 123
  • Question
    When is the best time to start training your baby rabbits to use the litter box?
    Pippa Elliott, MRCVS
    Veterinarian
    Dr. Elliott, BVMS, MRCVS is a veterinarian with over 30 years of experience in veterinary surgery and companion animal practice. She graduated from the University of Glasgow in 1987 with a degree in veterinary medicine and surgery. She has worked at the same animal clinic in her hometown for over 20 years.
    Pippa Elliott, MRCVS
    Veterinarian
    Expert Answer
    It is easier to litter-train an older rabbit than a youngster, because the latter's attention span is limited. That said, even young rabbits tend to use one corner of the hutch to toilet in, so you can put a tray there as soon as the kits start to be more independent and move away from their mother - just don't expect too much too soon.
    Thanks! We're glad this was helpful.
    Thank you for your feedback.
    If wikiHow has helped you, please consider a small contribution to support us in helping more readers like you. We’re committed to providing the world with free how-to resources, and even $1 helps us in our mission. Support wikiHow
    Yes No
    Not Helpful 34 Helpful 103
See more answers
Ask a Question
200 characters left
Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered.
Submit
      Advertisement

      Video

      Reader Videos

      Tips

      • Baby rabbits are born without fur and with closed eyes. The babies won’t open their eyes for around 10 days. [21]
        Thanks
        Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0
      • The size of the litter will typically depend on what type of rabbit you have. Smaller breeds typically have 1–10 kits per litter, but larger breeds can have as many as 12 kits at a time.
        Thanks
        Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0

      Tips from our Readers

      The advice in this section is based on the lived experiences of wikiHow readers like you. If you have a helpful tip you’d like to share on wikiHow, please submit it in the field below.
      • Keep an eye on the babies' stools once you introduce greens. Diarrhea is common as their digestive systems adjust. Remove any greens at the first sign of loose stools to avoid dehydration. Then reintroduce them more slowly once the stools firm up again.
      • If you notice the mother rabbit becoming aggressive toward the babies or trying to bite them, contact your vet right away. This could signal a health issue causing her maternal instincts to diminish. Don't attempt to intervene on your own.
      • Kits love to play once they become more mobile at 3-4 weeks old. Make sure any ledges in the hutch have guards so they don't accidentally fall off while bounding around. And provide chew toys to satisfy their natural urge to nibble.
      • Handle the babies frequently once weaned so they become accustomed to you. I made the mistake of not doing this enough with my first litter, and they remained skittish even as adults. Daily gentle handling pays off.
      Submit a Tip
      All tip submissions are carefully reviewed before being published
      Name
      Please provide your name and last initial
      Submit
      Thanks for submitting a tip for review!
      Advertisement

      You Might Also Like

      Caring for an Orphaned or Wounded Bunny: A Complete Guide
      How to
      Take Care of a Pregnant Rabbit
      How to
      Tell the Age of a Rabbit
      How to
      Treat Diarrhea in Rabbits
      How to
      Know if Your Rabbit is Pregnant
      How to
      Treat Ear Mites in Rabbits
      How to
      Treat Digestive Problems in Rabbits
      How to
      Get Rid of Mites on Rabbits
      How to
      Tell if Your Rabbit Has Weepy Eye
      How to
      Treat Snuffles (Pasteurella) in Rabbits
      How to
      Care for Your Rabbit After Neutering or Spaying
      How to
      Care for a Rabbit with GI Stasis
      Advertisement

      References

      1. ↑ https://www.poultry.msstate.edu/pdf/extension/rabbit_production.pdf
      2. ↑ https://extension.umaine.edu/publications/1044e/
      3. ↑ https://hare.as.miami.edu/surpriselitter.html
      4. ↑ https://www.poultry.msstate.edu/pdf/extension/rabbit_production.pdf
      5. ↑ https://hare.as.miami.edu/surpriselitter.html
      6. ↑ https://hare.as.miami.edu/surpriselitter.html
      7. ↑ https://www.pumpkinsacres.ca/mama-and-babies
      8. ↑ https://www.rspca.org.uk/adviceandwelfare/pets/rabbits/sexing
      9. ↑ https://hare.as.miami.edu/surpriselitter.html
      1. ↑ https://web.as.miami.edu/hare/orphan.html
      2. ↑ https://web.as.miami.edu/hare/orphan.html
      3. ↑ https://web.as.miami.edu/hare/orphan.html
      4. ↑ https://web.as.miami.edu/hare/orphan.html
      5. ↑ https://web.as.miami.edu/hare/orphan.html
      6. ↑ https://web.as.miami.edu/hare/orphan.html
      7. ↑ https://www.poultry.msstate.edu/pdf/extension/rabbit_production.pdf
      8. ↑ https://extension.usu.edu/morgan/files/Understanding_the_Basics_of_Rabbit_Care_Publication2023.pdf
      9. ↑ https://florida4h.org/projects/rabbits/MarketRabbits/Activity5_Requirements2.html
      10. ↑ https://hare.as.miami.edu/surpriselitter.html
      11. ↑ https://www.merckvetmanual.com/all-other-pets/rabbits/breeding-and-reproduction-of-rabbits?mredirectid=274
      12. ↑ https://www.merckvetmanual.com/all-other-pets/rabbits/breeding-and-reproduction-of-rabbits?mredirectid=274

      About This Article

      Article Summary X

      To care for newborn rabbits, make sure they're nursing from their mother for the first 8 weeks after they're born. If they're not nursing, contact a vet immediately so they can help. Also, start to introduce pellet food 2 weeks after the rabbits are born so they start to wean off of milk. Try to handle the newborn rabbits as little as possible during the first 8 weeks. After 8 weeks, you can handle them as much as you'd like so they get used to you. For more tips, like how to take care of a mother rabbit after its kits are born, keep reading!

      Did this summary help you?
      In other languages
      Thanks to all authors for creating a page that has been read 757,960 times.

      Reader Success Stories

      • Melisa Mendoza

        Dec 14, 2017

        "Thanks to this article I have learned so much and have stopped worrying about my rabbit and her babies. When I got ..." more
        Rated this article:
      More reader stories Hide reader stories
      Share your story
      If you buy through links on our site, we may earn a commission .

      Did this article help you?

      Advertisement