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An attractive fence gate is an inviting addition to your yard, garden, or field, but it's also subject to more wear and tear than any other part of your fence. The fence gate described here is sturdy enough for everyday garden use, and can be modified for any size of fence. You may need to research other styles of gate for specialized purposes, such as keeping animals.

Method 1
Method 1 of 3:

Building the Posts

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  1. If you do not have an existing fence to attach the gate to, you will need to build one, as fence posts are necessary for installing a fence.
  2. If you do not already have fence posts in place, you will need posts in order to install a gate. Make small indentations in the ground with your trowel.
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  3. Before any digging takes place, call a utility location service to locate pipes, cables, and other underground hazards. You can call the toll-free number "811" for this service from anywhere in the US and Canada.
  4. If the fence is not yet built, you can build it in an "H-brace" style, with single crossbeams and horizontal tensioned wires connecting the posts. For the gate posts, use posts 1.5 to 2 times the diameter of the other fence posts, and attach them to the nearest fence post using a tensioned wire strung diagonally from the bottom of the gate post to the top of the other post. [1]
  5. If you are not building an H-brace fence, you can reinforce the gate posts with a concrete base instead. Begin by digging a trench 12" (30 cm) wide across the gate opening, and at least 18" (46 cm) deep.
  6. Place the two gate posts in opposite ends of the trench. Plumb them with a bubble level to make sure they are as vertical as possible. Brace them in place by nailing two angled 2 x 4s onto adjacent sides of each post, stabilizing them against the ground. [2]
  7. For additional stability, you can lay pressure treated 2" x 4" boards across the entire length of the trench base. Nail them to the sides of the two posts.
  8. A fast-setting concrete mix or any basic Portland cement mix will do. You'll need roughly one bag per post.
  9. Cover the entire base of the trench with a layer of concrete 4–6" (10–15 cm) deep.
  10. Wait at least 24 hours for the concrete to cure, or as directed on the bag.
  11. Pour gravel to ground level to further reinforce the posts.
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Method 2
Method 2 of 3:

Building the Gate

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  1. Cut two 2" x 4" boards to 2 in. (or 4 cm) shorter than the distance between the posts. Make sure that you have enough room for the post and a fence to be there. For example, if you want a gate that spans 36 in. (or 92 cm), cut the boards to 34 in. (or 88 cm).
    • You can replace the 2" x 4"s with any 1" or 2" thick boards with a width that matches the rest of the fence. The thicker the board, the better, to make the gate sturdy and durable.
  2. These will be your vertical boards.
  3. Place the four boards flat on the table to form a rectangle. Hammer them together so that the vertical boards rest inside the horizontal boards. If your gate is very tall, a center brace beam may also be necessary.
    • For a sturdier gate, add a diagonal brace across the square. Instead of nailing the boards together, drill holes and connect them with carriage bolts.
  4. Nail boards of your desired width, no more than 1” thick, to the outside of the fence gate, using 2” screws or nails driven into the top and bottom pieces. These can be butted against each other or spaced evening or unevenly, depending on your preferred look.
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Method 3
Method 3 of 3:

Attaching the Gate

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  1. Usually, simply screwing the hinges into the fence post will suffice.
  2. Use a bubble level across the top of gate to confirm it will be perfectly horizontal once attached. If the hinge placement does not need adjusting, screw the hinges onto one of the vertical boards of your gate.
    • If your gate has a diagonal brace, the lower side of the brace should be next to the hinges.
  3. Test your homemade gate by swinging it back and forth several times, watching for drag on the ground or wobbliness in the posts.
    • You can in install a heavy spring so the gate closes automatically, as with a screen door.
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      Tips

      • If you want to paint or stain your gate, do so before mounting.
      • A garden fence gate does not typically have to be very strong. If your goal is to keep animals in or people out, however, you will want a larger and sturdier homemade gate, usually made with better wood.
      • Covering the fence gate with extra boards nailed to the diagonal boards will make your fence stronger and obstruct the view.
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      Warnings

      • Do not secure the hinges on your fence post too close to the ground, as the gate may drag.
      • Do not mount the gate while the concrete is even slightly wet. Doing so will cause the fence post to move in the concrete and your gate to angle down. Waiting at least 24 hours for the concrete to dry is advisable.
      • Make sure the gate is wide enough to fit anything that might move through it, such as wheelbarrows, mowers, hand trucks, and so on.
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      Things You'll Need

      • 4-8 boards of wood
      • Two fence posts
      • Hinges
      • Nails
      • Hammer
      • Trowel
      • Concrete mix
      • Tape measure
      • Drill and drill bit
      • Carriage bolts and wrenches
      • Bubble level
      • Material and stakes for bracing
      • Screws

      About This Article

      Article Summary X

      To make a fence gate, you’ll need to start by installing a pair of posts to support the gate. Additionally, before you start the project, make sure to contact your local or national utility location service so you know where to dig safely. When you’re ready to build the gate, you’ll want to make a frame out of 2 by 4 boards cut to the appropriate lengths, then install slats or pickets to complete the gate. For more tips from our Landscaping co-author, including detailed instructions for attaching the gate to the posts, keep scrolling!

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