When Does Grass Seed Sprout? A Complete Growing Guide

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How to care for new grass seed so bare spots grow in quickly
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You want a thick and lush lawn, but when will the new grass seed you planted grow in? Even though it doesn’t take very long for grass seed to germinate, times may vary depending on the species and the growing conditions. Luckily, it’s pretty easy to take care of new grass and establish a healthy lawn. We’ll cover when you can expect to see sprouts and how you can support new grass seeds to grow strong.

This article is based on an interview with our licensed landscape contractor, Benjamin Hansen, owner of Artscape Gardens. Check out the full interview here.

Things You Should Know

  • Expect grass to sprout anywhere between 5–30 days after planting the seeds.
  • Plant cool-season grasses in the fall and warm-season grasses in the spring for the strongest growth.
  • Keep the soil moist and weed-free after sowing grass seeds to help the roots establish.
Section 1 of 3:

How many days does grass seed take to germinate?

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  1. As long as you maintain proper growing conditions, your grass seed will sprout within the first month of planting it. While some species of grass will germinate within the first week, others take longer to establish. Common choices for turfgrass and their germination times are: [1]
    • Kentucky bluegrass: 14–30 days
    • Perennial ryegrass: 5–10 days
    • Tall fescue: 7–12 days
    • Bermudagrass: 10–30 days
    • Buffalograss: 14–30 days
    • Bentgrass: 10–14 days
    • Centipede grass: 21–28 days [2]
    • Zoysia grass: 14–21 days [3]
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Section 2 of 3:

When to Plant Grass Seed

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  1. Cool-season grasses are sensitive to hot summer temperatures and are better at handling moderate fall conditions. Since weed seeds are less likely to germinate in the fall, sowing grass seeds in the fall gives them a better chance at establishing healthy roots without any competition. Common cool-season grasses include: [4]
    • Kentucky bluegrass
    • Tall fescue
    • Perennial ryegrass
    • Bentgrass
  2. Warm-season grasses thrive during the warmer summer months, but go dormant in the fall and winter. To give your new lawn some time to establish, plant your seeds at the end of the fall after the last frost in your area. The most common warm-season grasses are: [5]
    • Bermudagrass
    • Zoysia grass
    • Centipede grass
    • Buffalograss
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Section 3 of 3:

Improving Growing Conditions

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  1. Before you plant your grass seed, apply a pre-emergent herbicide that’s labeled for newly seeded lawns to prevent weeds from growing in. If you see weeds sprouting up in the soil while your grass is germinating, then pull them by hand to remove the roots. [6]
    • Weeds compete for nutrients in the soil and may prevent your grass from growing in.
    • Avoid using a broadleaf herbicide when you’re growing grass seed since it also affects the new growths. Pull broadleaf weeds by hand so you can get rid of them without killing your grass .
  2. Till your soil to a depth of 4–6 inches (10–15 cm), and then apply a 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 centimetres) layer of compost on top. Rake the compost to mix it in with the soil. [7]
    • Adding compost helps loosen up tightly-packed soil and helps it retain moisture to help your grass seeds grow.
  3. Run a soil test to check the pH and nutrient levels in your soil to see what your lawn needs. Apply a seed starter fertilizer to the soil right before you plant your grass seeds to help them germinate faster. Use either a granular or liquid fertilizer, following the package instructions based on the nutrient levels of your soil. [8]
    • About 4 weeks after your grass sprouts, spread a slow-release, high-nitrogen mix over your lawn so your new grass gets more nutrients as it establishes.
    • After your lawn is established, apply fertilizer in the spring and fall each year.
    • Most grasses thrive when soil has a pH between 5.8 and 6.5. [9]
  4. After you sow your grass seed , lightly drag a rake across the soil to bury the seeds underground. Afterward, pull a lawn roller over the soil to lightly compact the soil so it makes good contact with the seeds. [10]
    • If you’re planting grass seed over a large area, use a rototiller and roller that attach to a riding lawnmower or tractor to make the job easier.
  5. Apply straw mulch over your grass seed. Pick a clean wheat, oat, or barley straw since they’re less likely to contain weed seeds. Spread the mulch in a thin layer so you can still see the soil surface through it. [11]
    • Mulch helps the soil retain moisture and prevents weeds from growing.
    • If you planted seeds in the fall, leave the mulch on through the winter to keep your grass from dying.
  6. Stick your finger into the soil to see if it feels moist. If the soil feels dry or crumbles easily between your fingers, use a sprinkler or watering can to lightly water it. You may need to water them 2–3 times a day before they sprout depending on how fast your soil dries out. As your grass grows in and establishes, only water about once a week to a depth of 6–8 inches (15–20 cm). [12]
    • Reduce how often you water when it’s rainy, cool, or overcast since the soil will stay moist for longer.
  7. New grass sprouts are sensitive to mowing since the damage can prevent them from growing. Wait until your grass is about ⅓ taller than the height you want to maintain before you mow. Then, only remove a third of the foliage so you don’t stress your new grass. [13]
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      Tips

      • If the area doesn’t get 4–6 hours of sunlight during the day, consider growing groundcover that’s shade-tolerant, like lamb’s ear or sedge, instead. [14]
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      • Get a mix of cool-season and warm-season grass seed if you want to have green grass through the summer and winter.
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      Warnings

      • Avoid walking on new grass growth for at least 1 month after the seeds have germinated so you don’t damage it. [15]
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      References

      1. ↑ https://ipm.ucanr.edu/TOOLS/TURF/ESTABLISH/germin.html
      2. ↑ https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/centipedegrass-lawn-maintenance-calendar
      3. ↑ https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/LH011
      4. ↑ https://njaes.rutgers.edu/fs584/
      5. ↑ https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/carolina-lawns
      6. ↑ https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/carolina-lawns
      7. ↑ https://extension.umd.edu/resource/starting-new-lawn
      8. ↑ https://www.johnson.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/agent-articles/lawns/seeding-grass-spring.html
      9. ↑ https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/changing-the-ph-of-your-soil/
      1. ↑ https://extension.psu.edu/lawn-establishment
      2. ↑ https://www.canr.msu.edu/resources/establishing_a_new_lawn_using_seed_e2910
      3. ↑ https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/carolina-lawns
      4. ↑ https://extension.umd.edu/resource/care-and-maintenance-lawn-after-seeding
      5. ↑ https://extension.umd.edu/resource/starting-new-lawn
      6. ↑ https://extension.umd.edu/resource/care-and-maintenance-lawn-after-seeding

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