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Next time you get lost camping, want to impress your friends, or get chosen for the Hunger Games, knowing how to make a snare trap can be a great way to impress or survive. There are a few different methods to catching small game outlined here to help you survive another Great Depression or just get you out of the camper.

Part 1
Part 1 of 4:

Preparation

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  1. To build a noose, the most effective material to use is wire. [1] You can use anything as long as it's flexible and not too thin or brittle. It must quickly and easily tighten. There are a number of wire types you can choose from:
    • Craft wire
    • Headphone wire
    • Stripped wires from cars
    • An uncoiled spring
  2. Make sure it's strong enough to hold a small (5-8 lbs; 2.5-3.5 kg) animal. If it snaps under your own strength, it probably won't work. The following items are suitable for a snare trap if you don't have or can't find wire near you.
    • Shoelaces
    • Dental floss
    • Fishing line
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  3. That means stringy tree bark and plant fibers. It's going to be more work, but if primitive cultures did it, so can you.
    • Milkweed
    • Dogbane
    • Cattail [1]
  4. A snare can be used day or night, rain or shine, and in any climate. All you need to make sure of is that animals pass by more than once in a blue moon. Placing random snares with no eye for signs of small game is a waste of time. [2]
    • Look for signs of game in droppings, shelters, tracks, scratches, and signs of feeding.
    • A significant source of water and food for the area is a safe bet as well.
  5. Now that you've found the general area you want to build your snare in, look above you. What sort of trees do you have to work with? The tree will be the beef of your machinery. [3]
    • Find a sapling (a young tree) that is strong enough yet bendy. Keep in mind, it must be able to hold the game high in the air until you find it.
    • If no saplings are around, look for a large tree limb and decent-sized rock. This is an alternate method that uses the same idea but doesn't require a bendable, well-placed sapling.
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Part 2
Part 2 of 4:

Building a Hook Trigger

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  1. Think of linking your own hands together (fingernails tucked into the other hand) and pulling your elbows apart. That is the tension you'll be using. [4]
    • The base should be longer than the hook and a bit sturdier.
    • The hook can be small--as long as it fits into the mouth of the base.
  2. It is easier to drive into the ground if you carve it into a peg shape first. The point breaks the soil much more quickly.
    • The base should be very close to the sapling you scouted out; the two will work in tandem.
  3. Make a knot that will not come off, even under tension. It should be about 6-12 inches (15-30 cm) from the top, depending on the strength of the sapling.
    • Test it before you assume it's sturdy. Remember: the animal will be struggling.
  4. Place the hook in mouth of base. Right now, the base should be the only thing preventing the hook from flying up into the air and the sapling straightening out. [5]
    • Make sure your cord is the proper length. When the hook is in place, the sapling should be bent towards a 90 degree angle. When the hook is removed, it should straighten up again (dangling the animal).
  5. Again, make sure the knot is securely in place. At this point, the hook should have two cords attached: one to the noose and one to the sapling.
  6. The snare is in place. All that's left is arranging a noose, filling it with bait, and snaring your game. [6]
    • Make the noose wide enough that it won't miss your target. You can spread it out on the ground with small twigs or pebbles; they won't interfere with it flying up when the animal is caught. It can be a good idea to prop the noose up with some sticks, especially if you are snaring at a game trail.
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Part 3
Part 3 of 4:

Building a Three-Stick Trigger

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  1. They should both be shaped like a one armed man and roughly two feet apart (.6 m).
    • Carve them into peg shapes beforehand to drill them into the ground more easily.
    • Place their "arms" parallel to each other. You will use the armpits as a source of support for the necessary tension.
  2. It should be, again, two feet or so apart from the other two, forming a triangle. [7]
    • This stick does not have to be any particular shape but semi-straight.
  3. Using your same wire, make sure the stick is securely in place in the armpits of the two original sticks.
  4. Just like in the hook method, it should be 6-12 in (15-30 cm) from the top, depending on the strength of the tree.
    • Test everything before you assume it's secure. A struggling animal will not go easy on your trap.
    • Tie your wire around a rock and throw over a sturdy tree limb if easier or more convenient. The rock should dangle above the ground and emulate the same methods used with the sapling.
  5. This is your trigger point. Knot your wire and then knot it again.
    • A stick that is around 4 in (10 cm) is long enough. Hold it under the stick that's in the armpit of the first two, wire tugged tight in front. It uses the tension between the cord and armpitted stick to stay where it is when propped up.
  6. This will be the stick that gets hit, falls, and pulls up the sapling. It is propped up between the smallest stick and the peg, just waiting for trouble.
    • This is a balancing act. Make sure it's centered near perfectly or a breeze could knock it off kilter.
  7. The noose will follow the small stick flying in the air when an animal walks across its path.
    • Use small pebbles or twigs to widen the noose, lowering the possibility of your target just tripping the snare and escaping.
    • Place your bait within the noose. Choose whatever bait appeals to the type of game you are aiming to catch.
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Part 4
Part 4 of 4:

Building a Fishing Trigger

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  1. Test it for strength and flexibility. Try to see if fish seem to venture close to the area.
  2. You will need two sticks with carved out mouths and several feet of wire. The only difference between this method and the hook trigger method is that you must make sure the soil is compact and will not erode away while your trap is waiting for its target.
  3. Instead of a noose, you will be using your baited line to catch fish. The bait dangles in the water and the top of your line rests on the hook, ready to fly into the air upon even the slightest of tugs.
    • Make sure algae or seaweed won't mess up your trap. Try to clear the area of any needless shrubbery that could trigger your snare unnecessarily.
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Community Q&A

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Add New Question
  • Question
    What is the animal putting weight on that causes it to be caught in the noose?
    Community Answer
    The animal puts weight on the noose it unhooks the hook and is caught when it is pulled up.
  • Question
    How does a hook trap work?
    Community Answer
    When an animal tries to eat the bait, the wire is pulled which unhooks the hook. The branch then straightens, pulling the animal in the air.
  • Question
    Does this trap kill the animal?
    OboKnowsMAGC
    Community Answer
    No, not unless you leave them in the trap for days at a time. Check your trap consistently.
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      Tips

      • Check your surroundings before you set a snare. Are there any pets that could get caught? Any small children that could run into your trap? Here are many different variables, so check before you set the trap. Remember if anything does happen, it is your responsibility. [8]
      • If the weather permits, check your snare several times a day. You don't want your prey to spoil in the heat or to be taken by other predators. And if its' alive -- well, how would you feel about dangling within an inch of your life for hours? [1]
      • If moving from an area, disable all snares you’ve set.
      Show More Tips

      Tips from our Readers

      The advice in this section is based on the lived experiences of wikiHow readers like you. If you have a helpful tip you’d like to share on wikiHow, please submit it in the field below.
      • If no saplings are available but there are 2 trees near each other, use a paracord to wrap around the 2 tree trunks. Find a sturdy 2-3 inch diameter stick at least 18 inches long. Place one end between the wraps of the paracord and rotate the stick so its downward stroke passes over your intended snare placement. By twisting the paracord, you can create tension that can be used in place of a sapling or counterweight.
      • If the snare is close enough, add an alarm. One way to do this is to put some rocks in a soda can and tie the can to the snare.
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      Warnings

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      Things You'll Need

      • Tree
      • Wire
      • Bait
      • Sticks
      • Knife (if carving)
      • Rock (optional)
      • Fishing hook and line (for fishing method only)

      About This Article

      Article Summary X

      To make a snare trap, start by making a noose using wire, string, or a cord. Then, tie the end of the wire you used to make the noose around a tall, sturdy tree branch so that the noose itself is lying flat on the ground. Next, pull the wire taut so the tree branch is bending downward and tie the noose to a trigger that's staked in the ground. When an animal knocks over the trigger, it will release the tension and cause the noose to tighten around the animal's leg, pulling it into the air. To learn how to make your own trigger, read on!

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