Q&A for How to Install Ceiling Drywall

The best thing to do is to hire someone who does that for a living—it will get finished much faster and will usually look much nicer. If you do decide to do it yourself, you're going to need at least two people to help you, because sheetrock is very heavy and you can easily get hurt.

Mark off a squared or rectangular-shaped line around the damaged area. Determine the orientation and location of the ceiling joists. Extend your squared off markings so that two opposite sides of the outline fall on center, directly over the ceiling joists. Cut out the box shape, and install new drywall into the area. Fasten along the edges falling over the joists. Also, make sure all of the damaged drywall is removed and that the problem that caused it is also repaired. Finally, finish as you would a regular drywall installation.

Install friction fit batts, sized to meet the code requirements in your area; cover the area completely with 6 mil poly, taping all joints; then fasten up the drywall.

Half-inch is standard, but your area's building code may require a different size, so check your area's building code.

You don't. Drywall should not be in direct contact with the heating duct. As the duct warms when hot air goes through it, the expansion of the duct will create an annoying noise, break loose the screws, or both. You need to frame below the duct to fasten the drywall to either wood or metal framing that is not attached to the duct.

You can rent or buy a support tool specifically designed for this purpose. Measure, cut, and then lay it on the support tool. It is adjustable and can hold the drywall at the proper height. Screw the drywall to the ceiling joists.

Standard ceiling heights are finished out at roughly 8 ft. precisely with one sole plate (bottom) and two top plates, and an unfinished wall will stand at 97 1/8". Your height could vary slightly based on imperfections in materials or the thickness of the drywall used. Any uncovered wall should exist at the bottom of the wall, and should ultimately be covered by trim/base moulding. This is usually no more than 1/2" to 7/8". Always button the top of your sheeting tight and leave the gap at the bottom if there is one.

Most people believe that ceilings must be done first, but this isn't true. Doing a ceiling first only helps to hide edges and off cuts. Make sure that the wall board is completely screwed at the top . This will help to keep things straight. You have two option then. You can measure a center point to the middle of the ceiling, placing your sheet dead center of the line, though this isn't recommended if you're not a professional. It's easier to start from a straight corner placing a full sheet in opposite direction of the studs. Your second sheet should be at least 2 - 4 feet shorter than the first one. Place it on the second row. Complete your first row, then continue on until you're finished.

1/2 in is standard, but the code in your area may require a different size, so check your area's building code to be sure.

To the point where the head contacts the drywall, too far and you could damage the drywall.

You need to screw them a little bit more. For this purpose, I recommend you use a hand-held Philips head screwdriver and manually adjust the screws so that they are flush with the drywall surface. Don't forget to plug them with plaster/"mud" and sand them once they have dried.