Q&A for How to Make a Gravel Driveway

You can get something called "Tackifier" liquid solution. When applied, the solution binds the gravel together.

I would not recommend laying pebble over existing concrete. The pebble will most likely roll off of the concrete and make a very rough ride.

You could dig out the clay/fine soil and pile it for redistribution, and then put down the larger base gravel.

Remove the asphalt or hire an excavator to come in and remove it. Check with the gravel company if they take asphalt for recycling or where you can dump it.Then level out soil or remove a few inches while leveling to prepare for base gravel install. Install weed fabric if desired and then add the different gravels as discussed.

Those steps seem accurate. However, when making a gravel driveway, ensure there is always proper drainage.

The ground needs to be leveled and compacted first. Once level and happy, it's membrane, then hardcore (compact again) then gravel (compact again).

If there is a rule against this in your locality, it will be in municipal, township, or county ordinances. Some of these may contain specific requirements for one property draining onto another. Don't forget to also check the construction permitting processes for municipality, township and county. Many of these governments have permitting agencies that may want to examine any change in rainwater runoff from your neighbor's property due to construction.

Lay the gravel from largest to smallest. Use the larger stones as your base layer and work your way smaller.

Check with your city bylaws on parking pads. In my city a permit is not required, according to their online information. It's only required when adding structures to the property.

You can try renting a compactor. That will help tighten the stones.

Follow the instructions listed in the article above.

Yes to the pea gravel. However, take care, as pea gravel is self compacting, and will act like sand when driving on it, should you make the layer too thick.

You can just put new gravel on top of the old gravel, but you will need to compact the new layer of gravel.

No, the sand will shift the rocks when weight is on it. Use a vegetation killing product to spray the soil after it's prepped, lay a weed barrier, then rocks. Nothing will grow, so long as it gets no sunlight.

If you do not put down a weed barrier and/or weed killer, the grass will continue to grow and will be a big mess.

All grass and plants have to be removed before you can put a driveway through. If you just put Roundup on them, then the plants will still be there (even though it's dead), so they will decompose and cause your driveway to sink.

Yes, you can, although you may want to consider pulling it up and adding a membrane, as this will prevent it becoming muddy in the future.

Dig out the area to a depth of 18-24" deep. Start with 3-6" rip rap as your base, and then add 3" of 1 1/4" gravel followed by 3/4" gravel. Always use sharp rocks, not rounded (also called river rock). You want nice, hard edges so they lock together.

Yes, as long as you break it up into 2" - 3" blocks and compact them in using a hammer or compactor.

Try True Grid, or another brand of path or driveway grid. I have been reading about it and the idea seems good, though the reviews are mixed. The premise is that a grid holds the gravel in hive-like pockets that prevent movement. Some state it can make your driveway last 10 years longer than a regular gravel driveway, and that it has a stronger load tolerance.

Even with a weed barrier in place, after a few years the wind and weather will blow dirt into the gravel and weeds and grass will take root - so you are looking at using some type of weed killer, either store bought or homemade for any area that you want to keep fresh looking. Start with two inch single layer and ten years later there will only be a few places that need new gravel.

You have to remove the topsoil first, because it is not hard enough to stay sturdy with the gravel on top.

The success of doing your driveway this way depends entirely upon the slope of your driveway, ground soil material, soil moisture, and rainfall in your region. Wetter regions and wetter soils will need additional materials or added composites to avoid wash out, sponging and shifting loss of the gravel.