Q&A for How to Make a Recurve Bow

Differentiating between a regular bow and a recurve bow often involves understanding the variations in their force draw curves rather than their power or arrow-shooting distance. The force draw curve refers to the relationship between the draw length and the draw weight of a bow. For instance, if we consider a recurve bow with a brace height of nine inches (the distance between the deepest part of the handle and the string when the bow is at rest), drawing it from nine to ten inches on a scale would yield a certain weight, let's say, five pounds. This process is repeated in increments (e.g., 11, 12, 13, 14 inches), and the corresponding weights are recorded and plotted on a graph, resulting in a curve. The critical distinction lies in the shape of this curve. A longbow will exhibit a different curve compared to a recurve bow. This variation is crucial for archers because it impacts how the bow feels during use. Longbows typically place the weight towards the end of the draw curve. However, if an archer experiences "stacking," a rapid increase in draw weight towards the end of the draw, it can be problematic. Stacking can occur if, for example, at a 28-inch draw length, the draw weight significantly increases when reaching 27 inches, indicating a potential issue. Recurve bows, in general terms (acknowledging individual variations), mitigate this stacking effect. They are designed to smooth out the final inches of the draw, providing a more consistent draw weight experience. This design choice is advantageous as it prevents undesirable stacking effects that may occur with straight-limbed bows.

To craft your arrows for a bow, your approach can vary based on whether you prefer a more primitive or modern method. My method involves purchasing shafts made from materials such as Douglas fir or Cedar, which are common for traditional arrows. Begin by selecting shafts with an appropriate stiffness, considering factors like bow weight, draw length, and the desired tip weight of the arrow. Taper the tail end of the shaft and attach the nock, angled backward. Afterward, immerse the arrow in a sealing solution to maintain consistent moisture content and prevent changes in weight due to moisture absorption. Attach the nock and use a fletching jig to secure the shaft, typically with three fletchings spaced at 120-degree intervals. Apply glue to each fletching, allowing them to dry individually. Once complete, cut the arrow to the desired length, taper the tip, and affix your chosen field tip or broadhead. This overview provides a simplified guide to the arrow-making process.

The bow, without a string, should be a bit taller than you. The string should be 6 inches shorter than the unstrung bow.

It would usually take a week or two, depending on the amount of time it takes to get the needed materials. Also, carving its design and polishing can add extra time.

Black locust would be the best wood you could use. It's an excellent wood for a bow.

A long bow shape is the typical D shape, while with recurve bows the tip of the bow is slightly forward of the riser or handle.

Try black locust or yew.

Yes, it would. Any strong, flexible wood will be good for the job. I really enjoy bushcraft, and I have found yew to be the easiest wood to use in the bows I make.

Yes but it won't work as well as maple, lemon wood, hickey or oak. And beware bamboo, birch and other woods, as these won't work.

You can use paint, just take the string off and start panting thin layers until the bow looks how you want it to look, then put the string back on.

The best wood to use for a bow would be osage orange. The wood is strong and flexible. If you don't have osage orange, other good woods would be black locust and yew.

No it’s too strong. If you want to bend it, it will break and you can’t use the wood if it’s green. Try yew or black locust.

Lofty wiseman, spotted gum, black wattle, and Robinia false acacia make good bows if you're in Australia.

Yes, ironwood is also known as ipe (ee-pay), aka Brazilian walnut. Put a strip of bamboo on the back, which is the side facing the target, as this will stop it from breaking. Lignum vitae (ironwood) is not the same as ipe but it is endangered and the lignum vitae tree is too small to make a good bow.