Q&A for How to Prune Apple Trees

Yes, you should remove them. Try to leave branches with a 45 to 50 degree angle from the trunk.

Start by removing all dead, damaged, or diseased wood the first year. This will likely stimulate new growth and fruiting. You can prune for shape the 2nd year, but don't remove more than 1/3 of the volume of the tree at a time.

Yes, you may cut off the top, leading branch to control the size. Cut it to the next lowest branch.

Yes! Trim it so that it has 4-5 primary branches growing from the trunk, and only a single leading branch growing straight upwards. Aim a for a cone or pyramid shape to the tree.

Wait until after the leaves have fallen to perform any dormant cutting. Then, cut those too-long branches to a more reasonable length.

The tree might not grow back as heartily as it would have, but you may still see some fruit. Refrain from pruning for 1-2 seasons to let the tree bounce back, then evaluate based on the fruit yield.

In most areas, yes. Pruning should be done during the dormancy state, not where leaves or fruit are developing.

If the apples are still good, you can wash them and eat them. If the apples are still bruised, you can make some applesauce. Just make sure that there are no worms inside of them!

Typically, the shoots are actually a sucker. Cut them completely off otherwise trimming them is otherwise advised.

Fruiting spurs look like swollen buds along the branch. Leafing spurs are not swollen and are much more compact lying flush to the branch. Fruiting spurs show up primarily on newer wood.

A bud will eventually produce a limb. Cut back to a bud or limb that is growing in a desirable direction.

No. Trees have their own natural processes to help them recover from pruning. For optimal health though, prune your tree when it is dormant in late winter and rub alcohol or peroxide on the pruning tools between cuts to sterilize them.

Proper pruning cuts do not need dressing. It is best to reduce to a limb one-third the size of that which is being reduced. If a large section needs to be removed, it is best to reduce a little at a time. If the branch dies, though, the whole limb should be cut. Large dead cuts may be dressed with a water-resistant paint to protect against rot.

You can use wood to brace the heavy apples before harvest.

I experienced the same thing, and it turned out that squirrels were knocking them down. Look for signs of chewing on the fallen apple to see if this might be your issue as well.

The "worms" are likely codling moth larvae. They can be controlled by spraying, and the spraying must take place at just the right time, usually determined by degree-days, which your Dept. of Agriculture may provide.

Yes, this will keep you from needing a ladder to harvest fruit and open up the tree to more sunlight.

In the spring, after the buds have begun to break open. They only need to be pruned lightly, removing old/dead parts.

Wait until the late fall before you start the pruning process. Do not get too aggressive in reducing the overall size of the trees. Maintain a conical shape and keep the center open to air flow. Fertilize your trees in the spring in a circle around the outer drip line of the tree. A larger crop will come in the second year. Thin the apples when they are about the size of a quarter. Read up on how to control apple pests in your area.

Wait until all of the leaves have fallen. Winter is the ideal time to prune.

Pruning should be done just before the buds start their new growth. Frosts can occur any time and should not be used as a clock to prune. The best month on average to prune in the USA is March.

Prune them (right now) to about 2/3 of what they were. Next year, graft some honeycrisp or other "better" apples to them.

If there aren't any buds at that location, then a branch will generally not grow. If there is a bud it can be encouraged to branch out by using a technique called "notching." The main trunk is notched just above the bud to stimulate growth. A grafting technique called a "stab graft" can be used to artificially insert a branch at a desired location.

You can reduce the height of a mature apple tree, but this is a multi-year project. Do not trim more than 25 percent of the desired height reduction in any one year. Maintain a conical shape to the tree. Keep the center open. Perform the pruning in the late fall or early winter. Fertilize and maintain the tree with consistency.

I use "dormant oil" when my apple trees have dropped their leaves, in late winter prior to the spring budding, to kill all insect larvae living on or near my fruit trees. Do not spray pesticides when trees are budding fruit flowers -- doing so will kill bees and other insects that pollinate the trees and no fruit will grow. I use Malathion insecticide. You mix it in a gallon sprayer.

No. Wait until winter; otherwise you will stimulate unwanted sucker growth.

If it has no branches, then what is there to prune? Let it grow, cut it down and buy your apples and give it more time to develop.

Depending on where you bought it (big box store), it may not be suitable to your zone. Give it plenty of water, mulch to keep rodents away, keeping the base of the trunk clear of mulch a few inches. Protect from deer and rabbits. Stake in windy areas. Aside from that, there are a few products that will help too. Try to keep away from hard fertilizers and stick with things like compost tea, worm castings, and good mycorrhizae.

Start by removing suckers. There may be more suckers that you can remove safely in one season. Don't remove more than 1/3 of the wood on a tree in any one year. Remove dead branches. Next, start to remove branches that cross others, and remove branches that make narrow angles with other branches.

If it produces fruit, makes shade and/or is habitat for birds and animals, you could choose to leave it.