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Clematis are vines that come in a stunning variety of colors and bloom ranges. They’re perennials, blooming in the spring and summer and dying back in the fall and winter, and can grow up to 20 feet (6.1 m) tall with lifespans of over 80 years. Clematis require full sun on its blooms and cool shade over the roots in order to thrive. See Step 1 to learn how to plant and care for beautiful clematis.


Part 1
Part 1 of 3:

Getting Ready to Plant

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  1. Clematis flowers come in an enormous range of shapes and colors, from pink blooms that span 6 inches across to drooping blue bells to starry white flowers. They've grown in popularity in recent years, so many nurseries offer dozens of varieties to choose from. When you decide which cultivar to buy, take the color, shape, potential shade and sun requirements into account. Clematis often take several years to flower, so look for a potted plant that has an established root system, visible at the drainage holes. Here are the most common clematis cultivars: [1]
    • Nelly Moser : Has large, pink flowers and is one of the most common types of clematis. It's hardy and easy to establish.
    • Ernest Markham : Has stunning magenta flowers and grows vigorously on trellises and arbors. This variety blooms last, from late spring to fall.
    • Niobe : Has red flowers and is a suitable choice for growing in a pot, since it doesn't get very large.
    • Princess Diana : Has pale pink, bell-shaped flowers and does particularly well in very hot climates.
    • Jackmanii : Has deep purple blooms and grows vigorously; a widely available favorite.
    • Venosa Violacea : Has abundant blue-violet blooms and vines that climb vigorously.
    • Apple Blossom : Has small white blooms; grows as an evergreen.
  2. Clematis may come in an amazing range of shapes and sizes, but they have similar needs when it comes to sun and temperature. They are hardy plants that require at least 6 hours of full sun per day. [2]
    • Clematis are hardy from growing zone 3 to zone 9. [3]
    • A few varieties of clematis will grow in partial shade. This varies by variety, but large-flowered clematis may not reach their full potential unless they have full sun for 4 hours per day.
    • Look for a spot with low-growing perennials and groundcover that will shade the roots of the clematis but allow it to grow into full sun about 12 inches above the ground. Large-flowered clematis prefer cool roots and full sun on the vine and flowers. If you can't find a spot with groundcover, add the groundcover later or mulch 4 in (10.2 cm) deep around the clematis to keep the roots cool.
    • You can also plant clematis near the base of a shrub or small tree. The clematis will grow up the branches without harming the "companion" shrub or tree. [4]
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  3. The location shouldn't be so dry that it doesn't retain moisture, but it should drain well enough that standing water doesn't sit around the roots of the clematis. To test whether the soil in an area drains well, dig a hole and fill it with water. If the water drains immediately, the soil is on the sandy side. If the water stands in the hole, the soil has too much clay, and doesn't drain fast enough. If the water slowly but steadily seeps into the soil, it's just right for clematis.
  4. Clematis prefer the soil to be neutral or alkaline over acidic, but many adapt to lightly acidic soils (6.5-6.8) If you conduct a test and determine that the pH is a little too acidic, sweeten the soil by mixing in limestone or wood ash. [5]
  5. Dig a hole several inches deeper than the pot the clematis came in, so that when you plant it the soil comes right up to the first set of leaves. Before you plant the clematis, amend the soil by working in compost and granular organic fertilizer. [6] This will ensure that the plant has enough nutrients to establish itself in the first few months after planting.
    • If you're working with soil that tends to be clay heavy (slow to drain), dig the hole a few inches deeper than you normally would. If your soil is sandy (quick to drain), a slightly shallower hole will be better for the plant's roots, so they're close enough to the surface to get plenty of water.
  6. It helps reduce transplant shock by pruning a clematis by about 1/3 its length as you find it at the time of purchase. If the plant is blooming, enjoy the blooms before planting, and then prune and plant. No matter how careful you are in planting, you will damage some feeder roots benefiting the vines and leaves. A 1/3 pruning helps relieve this stress by giving damaged roots less vine to support at planting time. Very gently remove the clematis from the pot it came in, taking care not to rip or break the fragile roots and shoots, but know that some damage is likely. Set the root ball into the hole, and for large flowered clematis only, place about 3-5 in (7.6-12.7 cm) below the surface of the dirt, and pat the soil around its base stem. The soil should come up to the first set of leaves; if it doesn't, lift out the root ball and dig the hole a bit deeper. Leave the stake in place so that the young clematis has something to grow against for the first year.
  7. Place 4 inches of composted organic mulch around the base of the clematis to keep the roots cool. Do not use straw or raw bark mulch, since these with soak up nitrogen as they decay, robbing your clematis. You can also plant or encourage the growth of low-growing perennials whose leaves will shade the roots of the clematis throughout the summer. [7]
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Part 2
Part 2 of 3:

Caring for Clematis

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  1. Give the clematis long, deep drinks of water whenever the soil seems dry. To test whether it is dry, stick your finger in the soil, then pull it out. If you didn't hit wet soil, it's time to water the clematis.
    • Don't water the clematis too often, though; since the roots are shaded, water may tend to sit for a longer period of time before it evaporates.
    • Water in the morning, rather than in the evening, so that the water has time to dry and be absorbed before night falls.
  2. Clematis will become ground covers unless they have a vertical structure to climb. During the first year, the support that came with the clematis will be sufficient for the plant's needs, but after that you'll need to provide a larger support, like a trellis or arbor, to encourage it to grow bigger. There are, however, clematis that do not climb and are herbaceous perennials.
    • Clematis grows by twisting its leaf stems around slender supports like twine, fishing line, thin branches, or wire grids. Be sure the support you provide isn't too wide for the leaf stems to reach around. It should be less than .5 inches (1.27 centimeters) in diameter.
    • If you have a trellis or arbor made with wide pieces of wood, line it with a wire grid or attach some fishing line to provide a support thin enough for the clematis to wrap around.
    • As the clematis grows larger and reaches around the support, you can help it stay in place by "trussing" it: loosely tying it to the structure with fishing. line. [8]
  3. Every 4 to 6 weeks, from April to September in most climates. Feed the clematis with 4-6-2 fertilizer (called rose and flower food) or side dress it with compost by spreading it around the plant's base. Clematis require plenty of nutrients to grow strong and produce abundant flowers. [9]
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Part 3
Part 3 of 3:

Pruning Clematis

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  1. While clematis aren't prone to being affected by pests, large flowered clematis can get a fungal disease that can cause the entire plant to turn black and die. If you see a dead or wilting stem on the clematis, use a clean pair of pruning shears to trim it away at the base. As you prune, look for slug damage or a break that may have caused the stem to collapse. Disinfect the shears in an isopropyl alcohol or a bleach solution between cuts so you don't spread the disease to other parts of the plant.
  2. Since flowering becomes less abundant on stems over 4 years old, you can cut off the oldest stems to encourage new ones to grow. Wait until after the first bloom of the season, then use a pair of clean pruning shears to remove the stems at the base stem. [10]
  3. Perform annual pruning according to the cultivar's requirements, knowing that bloom time will be manipulated by when and how much you prune, anywhere from deadheading (only taking off spent flowers) to a hard prune (taking the plant back to 12" tall or less). Some clematis does well with an annual pruning to encourage fresh growth. However, different cultivars may be pruned at different times of year. It's important to decide when to prune your specific cultivar, based on what flowering partners it is near, and some clematis only flower in spring with no repeat. You might be removing flower-producing stems if you prune at the wrong time of year.
    • Plants that bloom on old wood , meaning the flowers appear on last year's stems, require no pruning except to remove anything that has died; control their size a bit and keep them contained. After they flower, prune back to a pair of healthy buds. ('Apple Blossom' should be pruned to whatever degree you think necessary immediately after it finishes flowering. Late summer pruning of evergreen clematis like this will remove next year's flowering wood, and stimulate new growth that will freeze in the winter, greatly weakening the whole plant.)
    • Plants that bloom first on old wood and again on new wood , meaning the flowers appear on last year's stems and new spring stems, may be pruned as needed, anytime. Prune in early spring, before they bloom, to remove weak stems, or hard prune to produce later flowers if that is what you would prefer, then again after they bloom to encourage rebloom and keep the growth under control. (Nelly Moser, Niobe, and Ernest Markham are in this group.)
    • Plants that bloom on new wood , meaning the flowers appear only on new spring stems, should be cut back to 12 inches at the beginning of spring. (This includes Princess Diana, Jackmanii, and Venosa Violacea.)
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Expert Q&A

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  • Question
    What is the best time of year to plant a clematis?
    Maggie Moran
    Home & Garden Specialist
    Maggie Moran is a Professional Gardener in Pennsylvania.
    Home & Garden Specialist
    Expert Answer
    The best time would be in the fall, allowing the roots to stabilize and grow before the spring growth.
  • Question
    How deep do you plant a clematis?
    Maggie Moran
    Home & Garden Specialist
    Maggie Moran is a Professional Gardener in Pennsylvania.
    Home & Garden Specialist
    Expert Answer
    You plant it 3 to 4 inches below the surface, keeping the soil well-drained.
  • Question
    Can I plant clematis in full sun?
    Maggie Moran
    Home & Garden Specialist
    Maggie Moran is a Professional Gardener in Pennsylvania.
    Home & Garden Specialist
    Expert Answer
    Yes, you can. Clematis plants need 6 hours of sun or more per day, which is considered "full sun."
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      Tips

      • Choose a plant that is thriving and strong when making your purchase. There should be roots appearing at drainage holes, and more than one stem arising from the soil. A good roots system in the key to success. Some clematis take a few years to show their full potential. The older your plant, the less time you will have to wait for its beauty. For instance, buying a #2 sized plant is better than buying a #1 plant, and small clematis (called liners) in 4" pots or smaller should be transplanted into #1 sized pots until their roots appear at the drainage holes, guaranteeing a sturdy root system.
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      Warnings

      • Ensure that you can give your clematis the room it needs to grow. Consider searching for a shorter variety of clematis if you do not have the room taller varieties need to thrive. Smaller versions can live happily in containers and smaller gardens. In the wild, clematis scramble through shrubs and small trees, so many gardeners enjoy mixing and matching their clematis with living partners, rather than building or buying trellises and arbors. Herbaceous perennial clematis tend to grow in full sun in the wild, and work great in mixed perennial flower borders.


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      If you want to plant clematis, choose a spot that gets at least 6 hours of sunlight each day, with well-drained soil that doesn’t have standing water after a heavy rain. Dig a hole several inches deeper than the pot the clematis came in, and add compost and fertilizer to the soil in the hole. Carefully remove the clematis from the pot and set the root ball into the hole. Pat the soil around the base stem so it comes up to about the first set of leaves. Place a 4-inch layer of mulch around the base of the clematis, then soak the soil thoroughly. For tips from our gardening reviewer on caring for your clematis, read on!

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      • Eleanor Whitelegge

        May 27, 2016

        "Thank you for providing this article! I have never grown clematis before, so found it very useful. The instructions ..." more
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