How to Cut a Layered Bob

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Bobs are a super stylish look if you're hoping for a shorter option, and adding layers will give your hair more volume. To cut a layered bob, begin cutting the hair in sections. It's important to create an even base line that goes horizontally so that you have a reference point when creating the rest of the cut, as well as the layers. Comb each section of hair out before cutting it to ensure you're making even cuts, and make the cuts at an angle to form layers.

Trimming a Layered Bob

Comb the hair out in sections. As you trim the ends, hold the scissors angled vertically to create subtle layers. Continue through each section of hair, taking off less than half an inch in length total. Comb through the sections and clean up where necessary.

Part 1
Part 1 of 4:

Detangling and Separating the Hair

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  1. 1
    Dampen the hair so that it’s easier to cut. Use a spray bottle to spray the hair so that it’s damp but not dripping. If you don’t have a spray bottle, wet your hair brush and brush through all of the hair so that the moisture is evenly distributed. [1]
    • Use any sort of hair brush, though you may have to wet it several times to get all of the hair damp.
    • If the hair is dripping, blot it with a towel so that it’s not as wet.
    • You can also wash your hair beforehand and cut it while it's still wet.
  2. 2
    Comb through the hair to remove any tangles. Do this very thoroughly, combing each section of hair throughout the entire head using a fine-tooth comb. Work through any tangles until the comb runs through the hair smoothly. [2]
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  3. 3
    Part your hair how you normally part it. This is important for ensuring that you get an accurate cut that works with how you wear your hair. Whether you part your hair on the left, on the right, or down the middle, part it as you would whenever you're doing your hair with a comb or hair brush.
  4. 4
    Separate the hair into 3 sections. Use the end of a rat-tail comb to divide your hair into vertical thirds. To create the far left section, run the end of the comb vertically down your head starting at the back of the left ear. Divide the other two-thirds of the hair into two by running the end of the comb vertically down the head starting at the back of the right ear. [3]
    • This creates a left side, back side, and right side.
    • If the hair is parted on one side, the left or right side will have more hair than the other side, which is okay.
    • Use hair clips to keep each section of hair in place.
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Part 2
Part 2 of 4:

Cutting the Back Section of Hair

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  1. 1
    Part the back section of hair right down the middle. Using the tip of a fine tooth comb, create a line right down the middle of the back section of hair. Use the comb to make the line distinguishable by combing the hair on the left of the line to the left and the hair to the right of the line to the right. [4]
    • If the hair is long enough, pull the sections to the front of the shoulders so they’re not in the way.
    • This line is just for creating a triangle-shaped section of hair.
  2. 2
    Take out a triangle-shaped section of hair at your neckline. Use the fine tooth comb to separate a portion of hair, roughly 2 in (5.1 cm) tall, at the base of the neckline in the shape of a triangle. Comb this section out and make sure that the other sections are pulled to the side. [5]
    • Orient the triangle with a point facing directly upwards, as if the triangle is sitting flat on the ground.
    • The triangle should be at the bottom (also known as the base) of your neck.
    • The triangle section is important as it will be the guiding hair cut length used for the rest of the head.
  3. 3
    Make the first horizontal cut at least 1 in (2.5 cm) from the hairline. Pay attention to where the hair roots are, and decide where you’re going to cut the length. Use the comb to make sure you've gathered all the strands of hair, and use hair-cutting shears or sharp scissors to make a horizontal cut. Continue cutting a clean line across the entire triangle section. [6]
    • Don't cut your hair so that it's shorter than your hairline at your neck.
    • You're only cutting the triangle section at this point.
    • Cut the hair in small sections, using the fine tooth comb so that you see the hair you’ve already cut that’s in a straight line, as well as the hair that’s longer and hasn’t been cut yet.
  4. 4
    Use the already-cut hair as a guide to cut the entire back section. Use a comb to gather sections of hair from the back, including the line you created going down the middle for the triangle section. Hold the hair in between your fingers and pull each strand down and slightly away from the head. Cut the rest of the back section of hair using the cut hair as a guide to cut the new hair along the same line. [7]
    • Remember to hold the hair roughly 4–5 inches (10–13 cm) away from the head (pulling it outwards and down) so that you create soft layers and an even cut with the hair-cutting shears.
    • Holding the hair outwards like this is what creates the layers while you're cutting.
    • You're only cutting the back section of the hair (both the left and right sections are still separated and waiting to be cut).
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Part 3
Part 3 of 4:

Clipping the Sides

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  1. 1
    Separate the bottom section of hair on the left side of the head. Comb out the entire left side using a fine tooth comb so that there aren’t any tangles, and separate the left side into an upper section and lower section. Clip the upper section up so it's out of the way for now. [8]
    • Use your comb to draw an even horizontal line to separate the bottom section of hair.
  2. 2
    Clip the bottom section to create a horizontal line with the cut hair. Use the back section of hair that you’ve already cut as a guide to cut the left side of the hair with the hair cutting shears. Once you’ve finished cutting this very bottom section, you’ll have created a straight line that extends halfway around the head. [9]
  3. 3
    Pull out 1 in (2.5 cm) sections of hair and cut them at an angle. Unclip the top section of hair and pull out smaller sections, holding them between your fingers as you cut the hair while pulling the section outwards. Continue doing this until you’ve cut the entire left section of hair. [10]
    • Use the already-cut left side of hair as a guide.
  4. 4
    Comb through the right side of hair and separate the bottom portion. Take down the last section of hair and comb it thoroughly so that there aren’t any tangles and you can clearly see the difference in length. Pull the right side's upper section out of the way so that the bottom half of the hair is ready to be cut. [11]
  5. 5
    Cut the right bottom portion so that it’s even with the rest of the cut. With the left and back portions of the hair already cut, continue cutting in a straight line across the right side of the hair using the hair cutting shears or scissors. Use your fingers to hold the hair straight as you make careful horizontal cuts. [12]
  6. 6
    Separate 1 in (2.5 cm) sections of the right side, cutting them at an angle. Unclip the upper section and remove small sections of hair one at a time, just as you did with the other sections, combing them out and cutting them in line with the already-cut hair. Continue pulling the hair outwards as you cut so that you create layers. [13]
    • Cut the new sections while using the old sections as a guide until you’ve finished cutting the entire head of hair.
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Part 4
Part 4 of 4:

Perfecting Layers and Lines

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  1. 1
    Comb the hair and hold it between your fingers to add sharper layers. Pull out a section of hair with your fine tooth comb and position your fingers vertically, holding the section of hair between them. This will help guide your cut so that it’s straight. [14]
    • Avoid creating lots of layers by making shorter cuts on the side where your hair is parted (the thinner side).
  2. 2
    Cut the very ends of the hair at a slight angle. Comb out sections of the hair and trim the ends, holding the scissors angled vertically away from the head to create the layers. Continue doing this with other sections of hair, taking off only the very ends, or roughly 0.5 centimetres (0.20 in). [15]
    • Cut at an angle of about 70 degrees.
  3. 3
    Soften up harsh lines by cutting with the scissors vertically. To make the haircut look less rigid, hold the hair-cutting shears vertically and make small cuts at the ends. This will help break up harsh lines and make the haircut look more natural. [16]
    • Only trim the very tips of the hair—these cuts shouldn’t be very noticeable.
  4. 4
    Dry and style your hair once the cut is finished, if desired. You can either let your hair dry naturally, or you can choose to use a hair dryer and brush to dry and style your freshly cut hair. If you're using a hair dryer, dry the bottom layer of your hair first, ending with the top layer for a fuller look. [17]
    • Hold the brush in one hand to straighten a strand of hair as you hold the hair dryer in the other hand, holding it roughly 3 in (7.6 cm) away from the strand.
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Expert Q&A

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  • Question
    Can I cut a layered or stack bob if I have really long hair?
    Courtney Foster
    Certified Hair Loss Practitioner
    Courtney Foster is a Licensed Cosmetologist, Certified Hair Loss Practitioner, and Cosmetology Educator based out of New York City. Courtney runs Courtney Foster Beauty, LLC and her work has been featured on The Wendy Williams Show, Good Morning America, The Today Show, The Late Show with David Letterman, and in East/West Magazine. She received her Cosmetology License from the State of New York after training at the Empire Beauty School - Manhattan.
    Courtney Foster
    Certified Hair Loss Practitioner
    Expert Answer
    Absolutely! Just make sure that your cutting instruments are really sharp to avoid split ends, and track how you're cutting your hair with each layer to make sure you're cutting it evenly.
    Thanks! We're glad this was helpful.
    Thank you for your feedback.
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    Not Helpful 2 Helpful 5
  • Question
    How do you give a short bob volume?
    Courtney Foster
    Certified Hair Loss Practitioner
    Courtney Foster is a Licensed Cosmetologist, Certified Hair Loss Practitioner, and Cosmetology Educator based out of New York City. Courtney runs Courtney Foster Beauty, LLC and her work has been featured on The Wendy Williams Show, Good Morning America, The Today Show, The Late Show with David Letterman, and in East/West Magazine. She received her Cosmetology License from the State of New York after training at the Empire Beauty School - Manhattan.
    Courtney Foster
    Certified Hair Loss Practitioner
    Expert Answer
    Use a hair dryer to blow dry the bottom layer of your hair first. Then, dry the top layer. This will add more volume to the top to give you a fuller look.
    Thanks! We're glad this was helpful.
    Thank you for your feedback.
    If wikiHow has helped you, please consider a small contribution to support us in helping more readers like you. We’re committed to providing the world with free how-to resources, and even $1 helps us in our mission. Support wikiHow
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      Things You'll Need

      • Spray bottle
      • Fine tooth comb
      • Hair clips
      • Brush
      • Hair-cutting scissors
      • Towel (optional)

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      References

      1. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Kl_U4U-keY#t=1m13s
      2. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cidsOuUJ1XY
      3. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rUnPyHAFgsw#t=40s
      4. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sPqcyD6vJCA
      5. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sPqcyD6vJCA
      6. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBq52hglr_0
      7. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jhtcmSQXy-Y
      8. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WJ-1yY6mGUk
      9. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jhtcmSQXy-Y
      1. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ugiB3pwpzhQ
      2. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eFP9WjnCtXA
      3. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9UycgbosBc
      4. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQzwGRe9v5k
      5. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ve5PQtdx2TU
      6. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eFP9WjnCtXA
      7. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9UycgbosBc
      8. ↑ Courtney Foster. Professional Hair Stylist. Expert Interview. 9 December 2019.

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