How to Cut the Back of a Bob Haircut

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After you prep and section your hair for a bob haircut, it's time to cut. But before you take up your shears, make sure to research the exact type of bob cut you want, whether it's a classic bob, a graduated or angled bob , or a layered bob . These common cuts are likely culprits.

Method 1
Method 1 of 3:

Classic Bob

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  1. Divide the hair into four sections. For the back sections, part the hair along the back of the head by following the hair's natural part from the crowd down. Comb out the hair to either side. [1]
  2. With your comb, separate a small diagonal section of hair from the bottom of the back section. Comb it flat against the client's neck, letting it come to a natural fall. [2]
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  3. Using your comb, cut the hair square starting from the middle and moving to the outside edge. At the end, check to make sure that the line is straight and even.
  4. Take another small diagonal section, and comb it down over the first cut. Cut along the same straight line as the first cut. Continue doing this throughout the bob for a straight, classic cut. [3]
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Method 2
Method 2 of 3:

Graduated Bob

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  1. Your vertical part should be straight down the middle of your client's head, and your horizontal part should be about one inch above the hairline.
    • Each side of the bottom horizontal portion should be divided equally down the center and tucked off to each side.
  2. The hair should be cut in natural fall. This means that you should comb the hair flat against the neck, holding it with light tension. This will help create more blended graduations. [4]
  3. Take a diagonal subsection of hair from the back, and hold your hand close to the base of the scalp at a 45-degree angle. Cut the hair along the 45-degree line created by your fingers. [5]
    • Cut the hair above the parietal ridge (where the skull begins to curve upwards to the top of the head) at a lower elevation.
    • If you are right-handed, comb the left section aside, beginning with the right half of your first section.
    • Left handed individuals should follow these directions in reverse, starting first with the left section and then working from the outside in.
  4. You will want to cut a straight line from the outside inward. Use the straight edge of your hand to maintain your cutting angle. Cross check by pulling a small piece of hair from the same spot on either side and visually checking the length.
  5. Do this in the same fashion described for cutting the right side. Be sure you maintain the same angle of cut on each side.
  6. Your next section of hair is going to be anywhere from a half to a full inch above the first section line. Make sure you are cutting methodically. Consistency is key to making your cut uniform. [6]
  7. This line can be identified by connecting an imaginary line from ear-to-ear across the top of the middle of the head. Separate the back portion by directing it behind the ear. This will connect the back and side sections properly.
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Method 3
Method 3 of 3:

Layered Bob

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  1. [7]
  2. You can locate the occipital bone by observing the bump on the back of the head and imagining an even line extending from that to the ears.
  3. Adding layers will add volume to your cut. Bear in mind that your horizontal sections should be in increments between one-half inch and one whole inch.
  4. Doing this should leave you holding the hair straight above your client's head. From this position, you can determine the length at which you will make your cut.
  5. This will give your bob lift. [8] A layered cut will make the hair naturally stack on itself, giving your stacked bob more body as a result.
    • It is imperative that you take care and precisely cut the same angle and length on both sides.
  6. You should cut until you reach a line across the middle of the head, connecting one ear to the other. When you have exhausted your back subsections, you're ready to move on to the subsections in the front.
  7. To work through the front section, take horizontal sections and continue the bob outline up to the occipital bone. Then, take the hair from the top front of the head and pull it back to the length at the crown and trim away any overhang to blend the layers.
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Expert Q&A

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  • Question
    Can I divide the hair into more than four sections when cutting a bob hair?
    Candice Ayers
    Hairstylist
    Candice Ayers is a Hairstylist and the manager of Bespoke Hair Studio in San Diego, California. Candice has been manager at Bespoke Hair for six years, working both behind the chair and behind the scenes. In addition to managing the business side of Bespoke Hair, Candice's specialty is creating lived-in blended looks that enhance each client's unique head of hair.
    Candice Ayers
    Hairstylist
    Expert Answer
    Yes, having more than four subsections will help when cutting the back hair of a bob. In addition to four sections, I recommend sectioning the nape from the head in half-inch to quarter-inch horizontal sections with the head down.
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    Yes No
    Not Helpful 1 Helpful 3
  • Question
    How do I cut layers into a bob?
    Laura Martin
    Licensed Cosmetologist
    Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist based in Milledgeville, Georgia. She has been working as a hair stylist since 2007, and began a career as a cosmetology teacher in 2013. She worked as a teacher at Arrojo Cosmetology School, teaching cosmetology practices, hairstyling, and hair color application. She also brought her cosmetology expertise to her work as a staff writer for fashion blog Style Noted, writing pieces related to hair and fashion. She received an MFA in Creative Writing from Georgia College & State University, where she was also an English Teaching Fellow. Additionally, she received a BA in Creative Writing and Literature from New York University.
    Laura Martin
    Licensed Cosmetologist
    Expert Answer
    After you've cut all hair into a bob shape, you can create layers by taking vertical sections, elevating the hair above the occipital bone 90-degrees, and removing the corner. This will give the hair soft surface layers without disrupting the outline of the bob.
    Thanks! We're glad this was helpful.
    Thank you for your feedback.
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    Yes No
    Not Helpful 6 Helpful 21
  • Question
    Do I cut the inside shorter than the outer layer?
    Community Answer
    No, you need to cut the outside shorter or else you won't be able to see the layers (this is if you have shoulder length or longer hair). If you cut it shorter inside and you have longer than above shoulder length hair, it will be hidden. If you have above shoulder length hair, it might work. If you were planning to do this to yourself, I strongly urge you to go to a professional instead.
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    Not Helpful 18 Helpful 18
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      Tips

      • Make sure the client's facial structure fits this hairstyle before making the cut. If it is not, her face may seem wider or even more narrow. It isn't a super hard style but it can be a bit tricky.
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      Things You'll Need

      • Haircutting scissors
      • A sectioning comb
      • A haircut cape
      • A client

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      Expert Interview

      Thanks for reading our article! If you’d like to learn more about bob haircuts, check out our in-depth interview with Candice Ayers .

      References

      1. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w9sYK78WzrI
      2. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9PflGZAHy0&feature=youtube&t=74
      3. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9PflGZAHy0&feature=youtube&t=74
      4. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/shorts/M12ZWFYYp1Y
      5. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/shorts/uzhifgMKS5A
      6. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/shorts/M12ZWFYYp1Y
      7. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/shorts/83HdKHD70Qk
      8. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/shorts/bywKs-gj0C8
      9. Videos provided by Free Salon Education

      About This Article

      Article Summary X

      To cut the back of a classic bob haircut, start by washing the person’s hair to make it easier to work with. After you’ve cleaned their hair, comb it along their central part and divide the hair into 4 equal sections using hair ties. Once you’ve divided the person’s hair, comb out a diagonal section of their hair from the bottom so that it lies flat against their neck. Use your comb and scissors to cut a straight line across the middle. When the first section is straight, comb down another section over the first cut. Then, cut along the same straight line as before so all of the person’s sections are the same length. For more tips from our Hair and Beauty co-author, including how to cut a graduated or layered bob, read on!

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