How to Paint Weathered Wood

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Weathering occurs when a house with a wooden exterior is left exposed to the elements for too long, where the original wood wears down and trapped moisture causes boards to rot. Weathering on exterior cladding occurs quickly but can be easily fixed with a high-quality paint job. For long-lasting results, thoroughly prepare the wood before you begin by scraping away old paint, removing rot, cleaning and sanding, and end by priming and painting the entire exterior. [1]

Part 1
Part 1 of 2:

Preparing the Surface

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    If your home has been painted before, remove all previous paintwork using a manual paint scraper. Paint scrapers are great for working in corners and tight spaces and sharp scrapers do the best job. You may find layers and layers of old paint if your house has been painted several times over the years, which all has to be removed for new paint to adhere to the wood surface underneath.
    • Use a stout unhandled scraper with a curved blade, a drop cloth to catch the old paint, and safety goggles. A smaller scraper can also be used to get into nooks and crannies.These are all available from your local hardware store. [2]
    • Divide the area to be scraped into parts. Scraping a whole house is a time-consuming job, so it’s good to achieve small victories in the process. A pocket radio can also help overcome the monotony of scraping. A Sony Walkman radio from Kmart costs about $15, so don’t destroy your iPod or smartphone in the process. [3]
    • Always scrape with the grain of the wood and use a solid pressure, but don’t overdo it or gouge the surface. The idea is to return the wood to its original flatness in preparation for painting. [4]
    • To finish, scrape lightly against the grain to remove any remaining edges, if necessary. Use the smaller scraper to get into those harder to reach cracks and corners. [5]
    • Keep your work area well-ventilated, keep plants and animals away, and clean up the paint debris with a vacuum cleaner as you go. [6]
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    Rot is caused when water comes in contact with an unprotected wood surface. It can be hard to find and if left unchecked can completely destroy wooden building materials and even the structural integrity of your home. It’s important to check thoroughly for different types of rot, including dry rot (dry, crumbly sections of wood) and wet rot (soft, soggy spots).
    • Always keep an eye on places where moisture can collect such as window sills, outside doors and sinks. The main principle to remember when checking for rot is that the wood should not be soft when you press on it. [7]
    • To check for rot, keep a lookout for wear and discolouration. Use binoculars and a flashlight to inspect areas you cannot see up close. [8]
    • To test for rot, poke wooden boards with a screwdriver to check the integrity of the wood. If the screwdriver is able to penetrate the wood easily, the rot is hazardous and needs to be removed. [9]
    • Rot inspection should be repeated any time you want to repaint your house, especially in damp climates. [10]
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    Some types of rot can be repaired, but to be on the safe side, you should remove as much rot as possible before painting weathered wood, and take a few simple steps to prevent the conditions that could cause it to come back.
    • Using a sharp tool such as a painter’s 5 in 1 or a Swiss Army knife, thoroughly remove all traces of rot in the wood.
    • Cut around and gouge out the infected area. A wood chisel can also be a handy tool in this process.
    • Get rid of the conditions that cause rot to grow to prevent it from coming back. This includes checking for leaks, damaged gutters and poor ventilation. [11]
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    Check that all remaining wood is top quality to prevent the need for further repairs in the future. If any wood is damaged beyond repair, especially structural damage to roof support posts or railing posts, consider hiring a professional to replace it for you. If you feel like you have sufficient experience, you can replace damaged wood yourself.
    • Remove all rotted wood and an extra three feet of surrounding wood to make sure no rot is left. [12]
    • Clean all surfaces including steel and pipes within five feet of the rotted area. [13]
    • Apply fungicide to all surfaces within five feet of the rotted area. [14]
    • Replace with preservative-treated wood. [15]
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    Now that you have removed all rot and checked the wood’s integrity, use a solvent-based wood filler to seal all gaps where moisture could penetrate the surface again, especially in corners, seams and edges. Heavy-duty solvent-based wood fillers are designed for outdoor use. You can fill in nail holes, gouges or cracks, having already removed loose and flaking paint on the wood surface. [16]
    • Ensure the surface is clean and free of dust by using a damp cloth. [17]
    • Choose a filler that’s best for the job. You want your filler to expand and contract with the wood and not break away. Note that some epoxy fillers need to be mixed first to properly adhere to the wooden surface. [18]
    • Using a putty knife, apply the filler to the edge of the damaged area such as a hole, and gradually move to the centre. [19]
    • Always overfill the holes so the filler will shrink down when it dries, ready for sanding. [20]
    • Smooth over the filled area with a clean part of the knife.
    • Allow the filler to dry. This can take anywhere between 15 minutes to 8 hours, so be sure to read the instructions on the filler. [21]
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    [22] Using a coarse sandpaper of 40- to 60- grit, start by removing the ridges caused by the filler then expand your area to sand the entire wooden exterior surface.
    • For manual sanding, begin with a coarse grit of sandpaper and then finer and finer grits until you achieve the desired smoothness.
    • Always get rid of sanding dust with a vacuum cleaner before advancing to the next grade of sandpaper.
    • Consider using an automatic sander to cover the surface area more quickly. You can even use two - one in each hand - but be sure not to cross them over. [23]
    • The trick here is not to overdo the sanding - most of us sand more than we need to. At the finish, the wood should be smooth and even to the touch.
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    Begin by wiping down the prepared surface with a wet cloth or sponge to remove excess sawdust. Ensure that every inch of the wood is wet - it should be damp but not dripping. [24] Repeat this process until the surface is mostly clean. [25]
    • Wash off the remaining dust with a low-pressure hose that won’t break your windows.
    • Scrub the surface with soapy water using a mild detergent and a stiff bristled broom or brush. [26]
    • Ensure you rinse off the soap residue before finishing.
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    It’s important to make sure the finished wood is completely dry before moving on to priming and painting. It’s helpful to check the weather forecast several days in advance so you don’t get caught out by unexpected rain.
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Part 2
Part 2 of 2:

Painting the Exterior

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    Bare wood always needs priming before painting as the primer acts as a sealant. [27] When you are sure that the outside wood has thoroughly dried, use a top quality latex or oil-based primer and apply it to the entire exterior of the house.
    • Latex primer is an inexpensive, all-purpose choice. Bring your final paint sample when purchasing primer. Primers are usually white, but tinted ones are available to match your top coat. [28]
    • Lay down a drop cloth to protect the ground and any plants in the area.
    • Stir the primer well from the bottom of the tin to mix up all the solids that may have separated, and consider using a tray liner for your paint tray. [29]
    • You can use a nylon-polyester brush, roller or an airless paint sprayer to apply the primer. [30]
    • Start by priming the patched filler spots, then work your way down from the top of the outside wall to the bottom. Priming the patched areas first can improve the final paint job. [31]
    • Let the primer sit for 24 hours to ensure it is completely dry.
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    Now that the surface is properly cleaned, prepped and primed, it’s time to follow up with a great paint job. A good paint job protects your house like a raincoat. [32] You can use a top quality 100% acrylic latex exterior paint as a topcoat - buy the best quality paint you can afford.
    • Before you begin, mask windows and doors with heavy plastic and once again lay drop cloths on the ground. [33]
    • For primed, bare wood, you will need about one gallon of paint per each 400 square feet. [34]
    • Use a nylon and polyester brush for latex exterior paint or a paint sprayer for a faster job.
    • Always start at the top and work down so that drips are erased as you work.
    • Follow the sun around the house as you are painting. [35]
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    Another coat or two will make your paint job last longer. While it may seem like an extra expense at the time, you will save yourself time and money on future repairs by properly investing in the repair process now. If you can, you should always apply two finish coats, each within two weeks of each other. [36]
    • After you’ve painted the body of the house, proceed to the trim, using an oil-based paint. Brushwork is best for applying trim tidily. [37]
    • A good paint job will last for 10 to 15 years depending on the elements your house is exposed to. [38]
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Expert Q&A

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  • Question
    Can wood be too damaged to paint?
    Patrick Coye
    Painting Specialist
    Patrick Coye is the owner and operator of Patrick’s Painting & Home Improvement in Alexandria, Virginia. With over 15 years of experience in residential construction, Patrick specializes in painting, wallpaper removal/installation, drywall, staining decks and fences, and kitchen cabinetry painting. To date, Patrick and his team have painted over 2,000 houses and stained over 800 decks. Patrick's Company won a "Top Job" award from the American Painting contractor magazine in 2020.
    Patrick Coye
    Painting Specialist
    Expert Answer
    It really depends on the situation. If you can put your finger right through it or it's really soft, it may need to be removed and replaced before painting.
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      Tips

      • Never prime or paint in direct sunlight. Doing so will prevent the adequate penetration of the paint and could also cause blisters in the final finish. [39]
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      • Do it once and do it right. Don’t be tempted to skip the extra work required to properly prepare the surface before painting. If you follow the proper steps, your paint job will last the distance and you won’t have to repeat the process for several years.
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      Warnings

      • If your home was built before 1978, there is a risk that it was originally painted with a harmful lead-based paint. Call 1-800-424-LEAD before you begin renovations for advice on avoiding health hazards including wearing a respirator mask.
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      • No matter what kind of paint you’re working with, always wear gloves and goggles.
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      References

      1. ↑ Patrick Coye. Painting Specialist. Expert Interview. 22 July 2020.
      2. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMxYVQ9LLAE
      3. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMxYVQ9LLAE
      4. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMxYVQ9LLAE
      5. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMxYVQ9LLAE
      6. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMxYVQ9LLAE
      7. ↑ https://www.waterdamagedefense.com/blogs/home-maintenance-blog/rotten-wood
      8. ↑ https://www.waterdamagedefense.com/blogs/home-maintenance-blog/rotten-wood
      9. ↑ https://www.waterdamagedefense.com/blogs/home-maintenance-blog/rotten-wood
      1. ↑ https://www.waterdamagedefense.com/blogs/home-maintenance-blog/rotten-wood
      2. ↑ https://www.mrhandyman.com/blog/2013/august/dry-rot-how-to-repair-and-replace-damaged-wood/
      3. ↑ https://www.mrhandyman.com/blog/2013/august/dry-rot-how-to-repair-and-replace-damaged-wood/
      4. ↑ https://www.mrhandyman.com/blog/2013/august/dry-rot-how-to-repair-and-replace-damaged-wood/
      5. ↑ https://www.mrhandyman.com/blog/2013/august/dry-rot-how-to-repair-and-replace-damaged-wood/
      6. ↑ https://www.mrhandyman.com/blog/2013/august/dry-rot-how-to-repair-and-replace-damaged-wood/
      7. ↑ https://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-use-wood-filler/
      8. ↑ https://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-use-wood-filler/
      9. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MHQCqnoTBXM
      10. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MHQCqnoTBXM
      11. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MHQCqnoTBXM
      12. ↑ https://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-use-wood-filler/
      13. ↑ Patrick Coye. Painting Specialist. Expert Interview. 22 July 2020.
      14. ↑ https://www.familyhandyman.com/woodworking/how-to-sand-wood-faster/view-all/
      15. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zm0erUP07YI
      16. ↑ Patrick Coye. Painting Specialist. Expert Interview. 22 July 2020.
      17. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zm0erUP07YI
      18. ↑ Patrick Coye. Painting Specialist. Expert Interview. 22 July 2020.
      19. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sYTdn8iGBRw
      20. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sYTdn8iGBRw
      21. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zm0erUP07YI
      22. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sYTdn8iGBRw
      23. ↑ https://www.thisoldhouse.com/curb-appeal/21015103/putting-a-fresh-coat-of-paint-on-your-exterior
      24. ↑ https://www.thisoldhouse.com/curb-appeal/21015103/putting-a-fresh-coat-of-paint-on-your-exterior
      25. ↑ https://www.thisoldhouse.com/curb-appeal/21015103/putting-a-fresh-coat-of-paint-on-your-exterior
      26. ↑ https://www.thisoldhouse.com/curb-appeal/21015103/putting-a-fresh-coat-of-paint-on-your-exterior
      27. ↑ https://www.thisoldhouse.com/curb-appeal/21015103/putting-a-fresh-coat-of-paint-on-your-exterior
      28. ↑ https://www.thisoldhouse.com/curb-appeal/21015103/putting-a-fresh-coat-of-paint-on-your-exterior
      29. ↑ https://www.thisoldhouse.com/curb-appeal/21015103/putting-a-fresh-coat-of-paint-on-your-exterior
      30. ↑ https://www.familyhandyman.com/painting/tips/painting-preparation-making-paint-last-prepare-the-surface/view-all/

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