Q&A for How to Build a Wood Fence

Although you can build a fence out of all 2 x 4s, it would not be very cost-effective to use this method.

Yes, 4 by 4 posts should support 1 by 6 boards on both sides of the wooden fence.

Go to a home improvement center or a building supply store and ask for a pre-made gate frame and hardware with proper lag bolts to attach to post. Measure at least 2" off ground level of board length and attach to post before installing picket boards.

Usually before. Most posts will sit below the board height a few inches to hide them from view and you will want to cut them before boards are placed on them.

You can choose to erect the fence facing either way, but typically most fences face outwards.

String lines, staking, post-hole digger, shovel, level, gravel, Pressure treated posts, 2"x 4" pressure treated the length between posts for rails, picket boards, screws or nails, paint or stain, 2"x 4" pocket brackets,saw, bags of concrete if wanted, wheelbarrow.

I recommend putting the post placements in the "field run" around 8 feet apart.

If you are just repairing sections of the fence, then no you will not. But if you are replacing the whole thing with a new fence, then it is always best to check with local municipal or HOA guidelines.

That is such a minimal distance, they probably made your fence flow with the grade, which is the proper way to do it, I see no need to complain.

Yes but it doesn't look better and requires much more material and time. A fence that flows with the grade is the proper way, and to most people it looks much better, more natural and less like a prison wall.

You can go all the way to the ground, but not below, as that would cause dry rot on the bottom of the boards.

The finished side of your fence should always be out toward neighbors or the street. A wooden fence can be installed two ways, either between the posts or on top of the posts. The second way hides the posts on the outside, so they are only visible in your yard. Lastly, you need to check your local building codes about your fence type and even height of the fence, as these rules vary greatly all around the country.

No more than 8 feet unless you want to pay more for longer support boards. Going with 10 ft. will make the fence flimsier.

Adding extensions is not very sturdy, and digging up old posts and concrete is very difficult without mechanical help. I would say it's better to dig new holes (maybe at 7.5 ft. instead of 8 ft.) and put in new posts.

It's up to you. If privacy is the priority for you, then place them very close together. You can use a nail as a spacer. If you'd rather have more of a view beyond the fence, or want to add more visual interest, put them further apart as desired (anything up to the width of a board).

You can use a chalk line and a circular saw and just follow the line. You could also use a picket and temporarily screw it to the top of your fence horizontally where you want to cut the fence.

Yes, if your original fence is in good condition and the height added is not over-stressing the original fence.

You can if the fence is not high. Otherwise the gravel and dirt can move and your fence will shift.

If you are talking about a weatherboard (feather edge), you need three cant rails. For a picket or post-and-rail types, you also need three. On a weatherboard fence above 4 feet, always use 4x4 posts when using timber posts.

Pressure wash it. Be careful not to leave the sprayer in one place too long, as it will cut right though the wood.

No. The best way to ensure a steady fence that resists leaning is to make the posts very secure. If it's a very steep hill, consider sinking your post a few feet into the soil with a compacted gravel base of four to six inches and the rest of the hole filled with concrete.

No license is required, but most municipalities require a permit to replace or install a new fence. Also, if part or all of the fence is separating your yard from your neighbor's, it is a good idea to talk to them first.

Dig a shallow (6”) deep trench inside the fence about 16” wide. Use fence staples to attach 24” wide 1/4” grid galvanized metal mesh wire to the bottom of the fence, with a 90 degree bend to allow it to lay in the trench, and then bury it. The dog won’t be able to dig under the fence without digging a long deep trench. If it is a very big dog, consider using a wider trench.