When you’re building your own fence, all it takes is a few wooden posts to make it super sturdy. Installing the posts might sound a little complicated, but with a bit of elbow grease and our handy guide, it’s actually pretty simple! In this article, we’ll tell you how to plan out your fence, choose your posts, and install them in the ground with concrete, gravel, or soil. If you’re ready to get your fence built, read on!
Things You Should Know
- Place batter boards or stakes at your fence ends. Connect the boards with string and place a stake at each post spot to mark your fence outline.
- Use a post hole digger to make holes that are â…“ the length of the post and 12 inches (30 cm) wide.
- To set a post in gravel or soil, tamp down a 2-3 inch (5-8 cm) layer of gravel and insert the post. Then, add and tamp gravel or soil into the hole until it’s filled.
- To set a post in concrete, tamp down a 4-6 inch (10-15 cm) layer of gravel and insert the post. Brace it with stakes, then shovel concrete into the hole.
Steps
-
Check the building codes and permits in your city. Before you start digging, make sure your fence follows the guidelines for your city or neighborhood association. Just search for your area’s building department online to find any relevant codes, restrictions, and permits. [1] X Research source
- For example, there might be rules about maximum fence heights and how deep you have to dig the post holes.
-
Call your utility company or 811 to locate utility lines before you dig. To protect yourself and your utilities, ask a utility worker to come to your house and mark all the buried lines. Either call your utility company directly or call the national US dig line at 811. Or, go to your state’s 811 dig website . It typically takes 2 to 3 days for a utility worker to come to your house. [2] X Research sourceAdvertisement
-
Outline the area of your fence with string attached to batter boards. A batter board is a simple marker made out of 2 wooden stakes and a piece of wood attached between them. Make and place a batter board at each end of your fence. If your fence has corners, place them there too. Then, connect the batter boards with string to outline the area of your fence. [3] X Research source
- The string provides a guideline for your posts and ensures that they’re installed straight when you put them in the ground.
- Using a batter board allows you to move the string across the wood piece to adjust your fence guideline.
- If you don’t want to make batter boards, just use stakes to mark the corners.
-
Insert a wooden stake at each post location, lining it against the string. Fence posts are typically spaced 5 to 8 feet (1.5-2.4 m) away from each other, though that depends on your city’s regulations and the type of fence you’re building. Just drive a stake into the ground where you’ll install each post. Line the stake flush against the string to ensure all the posts are straight. [4] X Research source
-
Choose fence posts made from heartwood or pressure-treated wood. Use wood that stays sturdy in the climate you live in. Both heartwood and pressure-treated wood make durable fence posts, so look up your area’s building guidelines or codes to see what specific lumber they recommend. Regardless of the type of wood you use, only buy lumber that’s labeled as suitable for ground contact. [5] X Trustworthy Source University of Georgia Cooperative Extension Division of the University of Georgia focused on research and community education Go to source Unless you live in a desert, choose durable lumber for your posts, like:
- Durable heartwood: Western juniper, black locust, and Osage-orange are excellent lumber choices. Pacific yew, redwood, and most cedar and white oak species often last 20+ years in most conditions. [6] X Research source
- Pressure-treated wood: choose a variety with about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of sapwood surrounding a core of heartwood. Aspen, ponderosa pine, lodgepole pine, and Douglas fir are great options. Just buy this wood from a trusted source to avoid poorly treated wood.
-
Coat the posts with wood preservative to protect them against moisture. While this step is optional, it helps your wood posts stay sturdy for longer. The sawn-off ends of fence posts are often vulnerable to moisture. If you live in a damp climate or want to take some extra precautions, follow these steps to protect your wood:
- Use a saw or sliding bevel to cut the top of the fence post at a 45º angle, which encourages rain runoff. Or, install post caps on the posts once they’re in the ground. [7] X Research source
- Treat each end of the wood with a non-water-based, brush-on wood preservative , such as copper naphthenate. Wood preservative is toxic, so follow the safety recommendations on the label when you apply it. Apply multiple coats of the copper naphthenate, letting each coat dry for 24 hours.
-
Use soil or gravel to set your fence post if you have dense soil. Install your posts directly into the soil as long as it's dense and has good drainage. Installation is typically more labor-intensive and a bit less stable than concrete, but it’s often cheaper and makes your wood more resistant to decay. [8] X Research source
- Loamy soil, which has an even mixture of sand, silt, and clay, is generally dense and has good drainage. Soil that is mostly sand or clay tends to have poor drainage. [9] X Research source
- Dig a hole 12 inches (30 cm) deep and 4-12 inches (10-30 cm) wide to check your soil drainage. Fill the hole with water and wait for it to drain. Then, fill it with water again. Measure the water depth, wait 15 minutes, and measure again. Multiply the measurement by 4 to find how fast the water drains per hour. If it’s less than 1 inch (2.5 cm), your soil has poor drainage. [10] X Research source
- Due to additional strain, gate posts work better when installed in concrete.
-
Use a post hole digger to dig a hole about â…“ of the length of your post. For sturdy fence posts, stick to the general rule of burying â…“ of its length in the ground. For example, if you have an 8-foot (2.4 m) post, make a hole at least 2 feet (0.6 m) deep. When anchoring the post in soil, dig the hole about as wide as the fence post. If you’re anchoring the post in gravel, dig a hole about 8 inches (20 cm) across for a standard 4x4 post. [11] X Research source
- If your soil is hard, cut through the sod with a shovel and soak the ground with water.
- Keep some dirt, or dirt mixed with gravel, nearby to backfill the hole.
-
Pour 2-3 inches (5-8 cm) of gravel into the hole. Adding some pea gravel or crushed stone to the bottom of the hole improves soil drainage. Pour it in then tamp it down flat with your post. It’s especially important to add gravel if your soil has poor drainage. [12] X Research source
- Alternatively, use a wooden stick, a broken wood tool handle, or a piece of scrap lumber as your tamping bar.
-
Position the post in the center of the hole. Ask a friend or family member to help you center the post in the hole and get it level and in line with the other posts. Then, get your assistant to hold the post in place. If you’re by yourself, use scrap wood and stakes to stabilize the posts. Drive the stakes into the ground about 2 to 3 feet (61-91 cm) away on two sides of the post. Then, nail one end of the piece of wood to the stake and the other end to the post. [13] X Research source
- Make sure the post is flush against the string guideline you made.
- Measure the distance between your posts to ensure that the top and bottom rails fit.
-
Pour gravel or soil into the hole, tamp it down, and repeat. Crushed stone typically offers better drainage than soil. It can also improve the stability of your posts if it’s well-tamped and installed in dense soil. Whether you’re using crushed stone or soil, shovel it in 3–5 inches (7.5–12.5cm) at a time, tamping well after each batch. Repeat until the hole is filled. [14] X Research source
- Before each tamping, hold a level against the post and adjust it if it isn’t level.
- If you want to plant grass at the base of the post, use soil for the last 2-3 inches (5-8 cm).
-
Make a small hillock with dirt at the base of the post. Build up the soil at the base of the pole to make a small "hill" sloping away from the post in all directions. The spot where the post leaves the ground is the most common location for rot. Good drainage here is extremely important.
-
Set fence posts in concrete when stability is extra important. Whether you’re installing a fence in sandy or muddy soil, or simply want extra stability, go with a concrete setting. The main downside to using concrete is that it can trap water around the post. This sometimes reduces the lifespan of your posts by many years. However, adding a gravel base and an open-bottomed concrete sleeve helps mitigate this issue. [15] X Research source
- If you’re adding a gate post, be sure to use concrete.
-
Dig a hole â…“ as deep and 3 times as wide as the fence post. Use a post hole digger or post driver to make a hole at least â…“ the length of your post. Then, dig an extra 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm) for the gravel base. For a typical 4x4 fence post, dig the hole 12 inches (30 cm) wide across, or 3 times the width of the post. [16] X Expert Source Mike Garcia
Licensed Landscape Contractor Expert Interview. 20 November 2020.- If you’re digging a lot of post holes, use an auger to make the process faster and easier.
- If the soil is rocky, using a power tool might be dangerous. Instead, use a clamshell digger to make your holes and a long digging bar to lever out rocks.
- Make sure the hole is straight and the same width all the whole way down.
-
-
Brace the post to keep it straight by using 2 stakes and scrap lumber. Position the post in the center of the hole, using a level to ensure it's straight. To hold the post in place, pound 2 stakes into the soil about 2 to 3 feet (61-91 cm) away from the post and on adjacent sides. Nail or screw scrap lumber to the stake and the post to keep the post upright and straight. Don't pound the nails or screw the screws all the way into the post so they’re easy to remove later. [18] X Research source
-
Dig holes and add braces to each wooden post. To pour the concrete all at once, make every post hole, insert each post in the center, and brace each one using the stakes. Then, ensure the string you tied at each post corner is flush against the other posts. Adjust any posts to make them in line with each other.
-
Add 1 to 2 more inches (2-5 cm) of gravel inside the post holes. Adding another layer of gravel further improves drainage and the post’s stability. Just tamp the gravel down after you pour it inside.
-
Mix your concrete in a wheelbarrow. Put on safety glasses and waterproof gloves. [19] X Research source Then, pour a full bag of concrete mix (or as much as you can transport) into your wheelbarrow. Mix in about 90% of the recommended water according to the label. Combine the mix and water together for a few minutes. Check the consistency and slowly add more water until the concrete feels like paste. [20] X Research source
- Add the water in small increments to ensure the concrete doesn’t come out too runny. When it’s a good consistency, the concrete falls off of the shovel easily.
- To save effort, rent a portable concrete mixer or a concrete truck.
- To save money, make your own concrete mix. Mix together 1 part Portland cement, 2 parts sand, and 3 parts coarse gravel, by volume. [21] X Research source
- For a quicker solution, use fast-setting concrete . With this type of concrete, you pour the dry mixture into the hole, then add in water. These mixes tend to be weaker and more expensive, so use them with your own caution. [22] X Research source
-
Use a shovel to fill the hole all the way with concrete. Shovel concrete into the hole up to soil level. Work quickly enough to use each batch of concrete before it hardens. Take care not to splash cement onto the post. [23] X Expert Source Mike Garcia
Licensed Landscape Contractor Expert Interview. 20 November 2020.- Set a level on top of the post before the concrete dries to ensure it's straight.
-
Use a trowel to slope the concrete at the base of the post. Shovel concrete around the post. Then, smoothly cap off the top of the cement with a trowel, sloping it downwards from the post. Make a slope that’s about ½ inch (1.25 cm) above ground level that drops about 1 inch (2.5 cm) below ground level. This pitch helps the water flow off the post, preventing pools of water at its base that promote rotting and decay. [24] X Research source
-
Let the concrete cure for at least 3 days. It typically takes several days for the concrete to dry and harden before you’re able to build the fence or put any weight on the post. Read the directions on your concrete mix to see how long you need to wait for it to dry.
-
Seal the gap between the post and the concrete with caulk . A little gap often forms around the base of the post and the concrete. This gap can widen from natural expansion and frost, which lets water pool around the post and cause rot. Once the concrete is dry, apply a sealant that bonds to concrete and wood, such as some silicone sealants or exterior acrylic latex caulk, over the gap. [25] X Research source
Expert Q&A
-
QuestionWhat kind of concrete should I use to set my wooden fence post?Mike Garcia is a Licensed Landscape Contractor and the Founder of Enviroscape LA, a full-service landscape design and construction firm in Los Angeles, California. With over 30 years of experience, Mike specializes in sustainable landscape practices. Mike holds an Ornamental Horticulture degree, C-27 Landscape Contractor and D-49 Tree Service Contractor licenses, and Permaculture Design, California Naturalist, International Certified Professional Pond Contractor, and Pond Building certifications. He is one of eight Internationally Certified Pond Builders in the world. Enviroscape LA has won landscape and water feature awards from the International Professional Pond Contractors Association (IPPCA), National Association of Pond Professionals (NAPP), and the California Landscape Contractors Association (CLCA). Mike is a past president of the CLCA and currently serves on their local Board of Directors. Enviroscape LA has been featured in PONDS USA Magazine, Pond and Garden Lifestyles Magazine, and the Los Angeles Times. Mike has appeared on Extreme Home Makeover, HGTV's Landscapers Challenge, and A & E's series Fix That Yard.For setting a wooden fence post, I recommend using a quick-set concrete.
-
QuestionHow do I set a metal fence post in concrete?Anthony "TC" Williams is a Professional Landscaper in Idaho. He is the President and Founder of Aqua Conservation Landscape & Irrigation, an Idaho Registered Landscape Business Entity. With over 21 years of landscaping experience, TC has worked on projects such as the Idaho Botanical Garden in Boise, Idaho. He is a Idaho Registered Contractor and a previously Licensed Irrigator in the State of Texas.The process for setting a metal fence post in concrete is the same method as installing a wooden post in concrete.
-
QuestionI just had fence posts installed with concrete but the top of the concrete is flush with the ground. Can I add concrete on top of the dried concrete to create the sloped mound so water drains away?This answer was written by one of our trained team of researchers who validated it for accuracy and comprehensiveness.wikiHow Staff EditorStaff AnswerOf course! Just mix up some more concrete and apply it around the base of the posts. Then, use a trowel to slope the concrete down from the post.
Video
Tips
- Give the fence time to lose its natural moisture before you paint it. If it isn’t fully dry, the paint can trap moisture and encourage rot. [26] X Research source Depending on the humidity and how freshly cut the wood is, drying can take up to a few months. Consider using a water-repellent stain, which lasts longer than paint.Thanks
- Install your end or corner posts first. Once they are in place, run a string between them to guide the placement of the additional fence posts. Usually, corner or end posts are bigger than other types of posts and they are built in an “H” bracing design using another post for stability. If the posts are in dirt, set them in the ground deeper than the other posts.Thanks
Warnings
- Most wood slowly warps over time. This is much more noticeable in some species than others.Thanks
- Some types of pressure treatments and wood preservatives contain harmful chemicals. Wood treated with chromated copper arsenate (CCA) is the most notorious, but is no longer sold to homeowners in the US or EU. If you are using CCA-treated wood, do not place it where it can contact drinking water or where animals might chew on it. Wear a respirator while sawing it, and do not burn the scrap. [27] X Research sourceThanks
Things You’ll Need
Planning Your Fence
- Wooden stakes
- Scrap lumber
- String
- Non-water-based, brush-on wood preservative , optional
Setting the Post in Soil or Gravel
- Fence posts
- Post hole digger
- Pea gravel or crushed stone
- Stakes
- Scrap lumber
- Nails
- Soil
Setting the Fence Post with Concrete
- Fence posts
- Post hole digger
- Pea gravel or crushed stone
- Stakes
- Scrap lumber
- Nails
- Concrete mix
- Wheelbarrow
- Shovel
- Trowel
- Caulk
References
- ↑ https://www.hebronindiana.org/sites/default/files/fileattachments/building/page/4491/acfrogdzx5ta6sajczjpgnfvhdqkbfwj-xtf5cs_kj_e6jpxk63gd9xdyxavkcj_s8t16olxa6vflvnt_bw_zesntyvk110zpws68bwqeqltqfi8yb5bt9dzo55f91u_85m_p9t8x3xl3loan29f.pdf
- ↑ https://call811.com/
- ↑ ​​ https://www.lowes.com/pdf/1203_Fence_Installation_Tips_-_Layout_and_Digging_Post_Holes_V5.pdf
- ↑ ​​ https://www.lowes.com/pdf/1203_Fence_Installation_Tips_-_Layout_and_Digging_Post_Holes_V5.pdf
- ↑ https://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=B1192
- ↑ https://forestry.ca.uky.edu/sites/forestry.ca.uky.edu/files/forfs03_05.pdf
- ↑ https://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/sliding-bevel.htm
- ↑ https://takeayard.com/fence-post-setting/
- ↑ ​​ https://stormwater.pca.state.mn.us/index.php?title=Soil_physical_properties_and_processes
- ↑ https://hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/testing-and-improving-soil-drainage
- ↑ https://takeayard.com/fence-post-setting/
- ↑ https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/cms/life-out-here/garden-home-land/fencing/how-to-set-fence-posts-in-concrete-and-gravel
- ↑ https://youtu.be/aUTHbArkPu0?t=72
- ↑ https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/cms/life-out-here/garden-home-land/fencing/how-to-set-fence-posts-in-concrete-and-gravel
- ↑ https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/cms/life-out-here/garden-home-land/fencing/how-to-set-fence-posts-in-concrete-and-gravel
- ↑ Mike Garcia. Licensed Landscape Contractor. Expert Interview. 20 November 2020.
- ↑ https://www.abbottsathome.com/set-wooden-fence-posts-in-concrete/
- ↑ https://youtu.be/aUTHbArkPu0?t=72
- ↑ https://todayshomeowner.com/fence/video/how-to-build-a-wood-privacy-fence-in-your-yard/
- ↑ https://www.motherearthnews.com/diy/garden-yard/installing-concrete-footing-ze0z1401zcov.aspx?PageId=2
- ↑ https://matse1.matse.illinois.edu/concrete/bm.html
- ↑ https://www.motherearthnews.com/diy/garden-yard/installing-concrete-footing-ze0z1401zcov.aspx?PageId=2
- ↑ Mike Garcia. Licensed Landscape Contractor. Expert Interview. 20 November 2020.
- ↑ https://youtu.be/LBUiFbUp4dI?t=41
- ↑ https://blessmyweeds.com/12-tips-for-maintaining-a-wood-fence/
- ↑ https://forestry.ca.uky.edu/sites/forestry.ca.uky.edu/files/forfs03_05.pdf
- ↑ https://www.herinst.org/CCAtimber/regulations/Europe.html
About This Article
To install a wood fence post in soil or gravel, start with a post made of a sturdy material, such as heartwood or pressure-treated sapwood with a heartwood core. If the top of the post isn’t already beveled, cut it at a 45-degree angle to encourage rain to run off, which will reduce the risk of water damage. Brush a non-water-based wood preservative, such as copper naphthenate, on both cut ends of the post. Let the preservative dry for 24 hours before you install the post. Use a post-hole digger to dig a hole with straight, even sides in the gravel or soil where you plan to put the post. Make the hole deep enough so that about ¼ of the post is under the ground. For instance, if your post is 8 ft (2.4 m) tall, your hole should be about 2 ft (.6 m) deep. If you’re working with soil, make the diameter of the hole as close to the size of the fence post as possible. For gravel, make the hole a little wider. For instance, if the fence post is 4 by 4 inches (10 by 10 cm), make the hole about 8 inches (20 cm) across. To promote better soil drainage and keep the bottom of the post from rotting, drop about 2 inches (5 cm) of gravel in the bottom of the hole, then pack it down firmly with a stick or a piece of scrap wood. Center the post in the hole and make sure it’s level, then fill in the hole around the post with soil, gravel, or crushed stone. Pour in the filler a little bit at a time and pack it down firmly before adding more, until the hole is completely filled in. Finally, build a small hill of soil or gravel around the base of the post for extra stability. If you’re installing the fence in soft sand or soil, you might need to reinforce the post with concrete. To do this, start by making the hole a little wider and deeper. For a 4 by 4-inch (10 by 10 cm) post, make the hole about 12 inches (30 cm) across. It should be deep enough to cover at least 1/3rd of the length of the post, plus an extra 4-6 inches (10 to 15 cm) at the bottom for gravel. Pour the gravel into the bottom of the hole and tamp it down firmly, then slide the post into place. Wedge a pair of stakes into the hole on either side of the post to keep it standing. Place some pieces of scrap wood between the stakes and the post and lightly nail or screw them into place. Add another few inches of tamped gravel around the base of the post, then fill in the rest of the hole with concrete up to just above the surface level of the soil. Use a trowel to shape the concrete at the base of the post into a low, sloping mound, about ½ inch (1.3 cm) above the soil surface at its highest point. Once the concrete sets, seal the gap between the concrete and the bottom of the post with a sealant designed to bond concrete and wood, such as silicone or latex caulk. To learn more from our Professional Landscaper co-author, like how to dig the holes for your fence posts, keep reading the article!
Reader Success Stories
- "As an avid Do it Yourself fan, I found the details of the two methods of setting fence posts to be very helpful as I haven't built a fence for 20 years. Articles like this help not having to do the job a second time to get it right!" ..." more