Q&A for How to Install Chain Link Fence

I had to do this once so I parked my truck on top of the rail at the point where the bend needed to start. Then I lifted the other end so it bent.

Determine the actual distance of the section and then divide the distance by 10. Round your answer down to the next whole number - this is the required number of line posts. For example, if you had a fence that was 55' long, the formula would be: 55' ÷ 10 = 5.5. Round down to five, and you see that you would need five line posts for this section. If you place five line posts in between two terminal posts, it will yield six sections of fence. To determine the proper, equidistant spacing of line posts, divide the number of sections into the total distance.

Yes. That is the tension wire. The wire is simply to prevent the fencing from being pushed outward (or inward).

Terminal posts are usually 2" higher than the fence mesh, and line posts are usually 2" lower. The line posts are lower, so the top rail + looped cap will be roughly level with the top of the fence mesh.

It is the same process as being on flat ground except you may have transition points in the fencing to 'weave' together just like adding 2 pieces of fence together. Be sure that all the posts are perfectly 'plumb' and not at an angle. It may require longer posts to get them perfectly vertical.

Yes, but probably no more than four, to be sure to have enough room for the tension bands.

It varies. Your best bet is to run an internet search for fencing contractors in your area, pick 3 or 5 companies, and get quotes from each of them.

If you fill with concrete only to a couple inches from the top of the post hole, you can then pack dirt around them so it looks better, after the concrete is fully set. Rather than ending up with a 6" circle of concrete around each post, the dirt (and/or lawn) will go all the way up to the posts, and look more natural.

Yes. Home Depot and Lowe's don't sell them, though. Try an independent fence supplier. I installed 2" terminal posts and tension bands in my yard.

Fence material is normally placed on the "outside" of the fence area, which would mean on the neighbor's side. It does not truly matter for the functionality of the fence, however, and you may avoid hassles with the neighbor by putting it on your side. You need to unroll the fence before attaching, so you would be doing this step in your neighbor's yard.

Although I am not entirely sure what you are asking, the general answer is yes, you have to use concrete for your terminal posts. You need to be able to support the post against the tension when you stretch the chain link to prevent sagging (Part 7 Step one above). Placing the post in a bucket would not allow this to happen.

If you intend to have the bottom of the chain link embedded in the foundation, to prevent digging underneath, subtract 3 inches from the posted instructions above to allow 1 inch of the bottom to embed in the concrete. So a terminal post would be fence height - 1 inch instead of fence height + 2 inches. Line posts would be fence height - 3 inches.

Measure the distance between the set posts. Subtract for the hardware you're using (fork/collar; hinges) for the actual width of the gate.

The distance depends on the measurements of the gate and the hardware that you will be using.

Most codes I've read call for support structure materials to be inside your yard. So on a wooden fence, the posts and rails are inside and the panels face outward. In keeping with the same, the posts and rail would be inside your yard and the mesh on the outer side of the posts.

Choose a sturdy area on the building, like a masonry wall or wood frame. You'll need chain link fabric, tension bars, brackets, and appropriate fasteners. (Use anchors for masonry and bolts for wood.) Insert a tension bar through the end of the chain link fabric. Secure brackets to the building using suitable fasteners. Bolt or screw the tension bar to the brackets. Be sure the fence is taut and aligned, and make adjustments if needed.