What American Nickels Are Worth Money? Individual Coins & Nickel Series

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Learn what errors and special features to look for on a rare nickel
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Five cents might not get you much these days, but if you find the right nickel in your pocket, it could be worth a lot more. Rare nickels can bring hundreds, thousands, and in some cases even millions of dollars! We’re taking a look at which years of nickels are worth the most, how to spot errors on your nickels that could boost the value, how to handle rare nickels if you find them, and more.

The Most Valuable American Nickels

  1. 1913 Liberty Head V (Appraised at over $3 million)
  2. 1926-S Buffalo Nickel (Appraised at over $300,000)
  3. 1880 Shield Nickel (Appraised at $200,000)
  4. 1913-D 3-Legged Buffalo Nickel (Appraised at $47,000)
  5. 1943/2 P Jefferson Nickel (Appraised at $16,000)
Section 1 of 7:

12 Most Valuable Nickels

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  1. Shield nickels weren’t produced in 1877 or 1878, and production was limited in 1879. Although the 1880 Shield nickel is slightly rarer, this coin is highly collectible, and a number of high-quality graded examples have been identified. [1]
    • Estimated Value: Even “Poor” and “About Good” examples of this coin can be worth nearly $500, with Mint State coins fetching $5,000 or more. [2]
  2. Fewer Shield coins were minted for circulation in 1880 than any other year. [3] However, a higher number of Proof coins were made—coins that are produced specifically for collectors, and which have a higher shine and more definition than regular coins. [4]
    • Proof coins are not quite as valuable as circulation strikes, or coins that were intended to go into circulation, so collectors should be mindful not to purchase a Proof that’s been mistakenly identified as a circulation strike.
    • Estimated Value: A circulation-strike 1880 Shield nickel graded MS66 sold for nearly $200,000 in 2023.
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  3. In 1913, the Liberty Head nickel was replaced with the Buffalo Head nickel. However, 5 Liberty Head nickels were secretly produced that year, although no one is really sure when or why. These coins were never circulated, and while 2 of the 5 are currently on display in museums, the other 3 are owned by private collectors. [5]
    • Estimated Value: One of these coins sold for over $3 million at auction! [6]
    • Because only 5 of these coins are known to exist and their ownership is well-documented, it’s unlikely that anyone will ever find one of these coins in their pocket—but it’s still an amazing piece of history!
  4. A minting error in the first year of the Buffalo nickel led to some coins that featured a 3-legged bison (mistakenly called a buffalo) on the reverse side. There’s also a version where the bison has 3-1/2 legs—both coins are highly collectible. [7]
    • Estimated Value: A 3-1/2 leg buffalo nickel graded MS65 sold for over $47,000 at an auction in 2004. But even lower grades can be worth hundreds of dollars. [8]
  5. A striking error on this coin created a doubling effect on the front, or obverse, side. It can be seen without the help of a magnifying glass—the outline in the Native American’s chin, throat, lips, and headdress features two lines, and the numbers in 1916 are double-stamped, one over the other. [9]
    • Estimated Value: The value of this coin varies depending on the quality, but a coin graded in “Good” condition could be worth $5,000 or more.
  6. This Buffalo nickel was produced in 1918, but the year was stamped over the previous year (1917)—a striking error known as an overdate. It’s considered the rarest Buffalo nickel. [10]
    • Genuine versions of this nickel feature a mintmark that’s slightly tilted to the left.
    • Estimated Value: A circulated 1918/7 D Buffalo nickel can be worth $600 or more. In pristine condition, it could be worth up to $400,000. [11]
  7. This coin had relatively low minting numbers, and most of the nickels went into circulation. That can make it hard to find one in mint condition—so its rarity makes it fairly valuable to collectors. [12]
    • Estimated Value: Circulated 1926 Buffalo nickels can be worth anywhere from $15 to $4,400. But in 2008, a 1926-S Buffalo nickel-graded MS66 sold for $322,000. [13]
  8. A doubled-die striking error causes the words “FIVE CENTS” and “MONTICELLO” to appear doubled on this coin. This coin was widely circulated, and as many as 1,500 examples exist today. [14]
    • Estimated Value: In mint condition, this coin is valued from around $400 to over $11,000. [15]
  9. To help preserve copper and nickel for the war efforts, in 1942 the mint started using silver to make Jefferson nickels. In Gem condition, these nickels have a shiny luster, although in circulated condition they tend to turn greenish as the silver oxidizes. They also feature a notably large mint mark on the back (either P, D, or S). [16]
    • Estimated Value: Although these coins aren’t particularly rare, they are prized by collectors. Coins graded Good or higher are typically worth between $2 and $25. Proofs can be worth $130 or more. [17]
  10. Thanks to an overdate error on this coin the year 1943 is stamped over the year 1942. Over 1,000 authenticated examples of this coin have been found, and it’s considered highly desirable by collectors. [18]
    • Estimated Value: In Good (G4, G6) condition, this coin is worth around $25–$30. One example graded MS67FS—Mint Condition 67 with Full Steps (all 6 steps visible on Monticello)—sold for over $16,000 in 2008.
  11. Only 2,630,000 1950-D Jefferson nickels were minted, which is relatively low compared to other issues. It’s highly collectible because of its rarity, but because many examples of this coin have survived, it’s fairly easy to find and somewhat inexpensive. [19]
    • Estimated Value: “Good” coins are valued at around $5.50, with Mint examples ranging from $100 to nearly $200. [20]
  12. Similar to the 1935 Double Die Reverse, this coin features doubling on the words “FIVE CENTS” and “MONTICELLO.” The effect is a little less noticeable in this year, but you can usually spot it without the help of a magnifying glass. [21]
    • Estimated Value: In “Fine” (F12) condition, this coin is valued at around $20, while the highest Mint grades have sold for $1,500 or more.
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Section 2 of 7:

Most Valuable U.S. Nickel Series

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  1. Shield nickels were 5-cent pieces that were produced starting in 1866. They were made of 25% nickel and 75% copper, and nearly 15 million of these coins were made in the first year. They feature a large shield on the obverse of the coin and a 5 surrounded by stars on the reverse. [22]
    • In 1866 and 1867, shield nickels featured rays around the 5 on the reverse of the coin, but these were removed for later years because it was difficult to imprint the rays correctly.
  2. Liberty nickels were produced beginning in 1883. These coins featured the head of Lady Liberty on the front and the Roman numeral V on the back, surrounded by a wreath and the words “United States of America” and “E Pluribus Unum.” [23]
    • The first run didn’t include the denomination, but after some people altered the coins to pass them off as $5 Half Eagles, the Mint added “FIVE CENTS” to the reverse of the coin by the end of 1883.
  3. Buffalo nickels were produced starting in 1913, and they feature a fictional Native American chief on the obverse and a bison (commonly called a buffalo) on the reverse. On Type-I coins, the bison stands on a mound. Type-II refers to coins produced after the mound was removed in a redesign. [24]
    • It can be difficult to distinguish between circulation strikes and Matte Proofs in this series.
  4. Jefferson nickels have been circulated since 1938 and are still in use today. They feature the image of Thomas Jefferson on the obverse, and most years in the series feature Jefferson’s Virginia home Monticello on the rear. [25]
    • In 2004 and 2005, “Westward Journey” coins were printed, with a design that paid homage to Lewis and Clark’s purchase of the Louisiana Territory.
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Section 3 of 7:

What years of nickels are worth the most money?

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  1. Certain years of nickels tend to be worth more money than others, largely due to their rarity or historical significance. Here are some of the years of nickels that can be sold for the most amount of money: [26]
    • 1866–1883: Shield nickels that were minted in Philadelphia.
    • 1913: Liberty Head nickels.
    • 1916: Buffalo nickels minted in Philadelphia with a double die obverse error.
    • 1918: Buffalo nickels minted with an over-date error.
    • 1936: Buffalo nickels minted in Denver.
    • 1937: Buffalo nickels minted in Denver.
    • 1938: Jefferson nickels minted without a completed full strike.
    • 1942: Jefferson nickels minted with 35% silver.
Section 4 of 7:

Determining the Value of Rare Coins

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  1. Hard-to-find coins are usually highly prized by collectors, so their value may be higher. For instance, because fewer Buffalo nickels were produced in San Francisco than in Philadelphia in 1921, a 1921 Buffalo nickel with an S mint mark (for San Francisco) is worth more than one with a P mint mark (for Philadelphia). [27]
    • Similarly, Shield nickels without the rays around the 5 are more common, so Shield nickels without the rays are usually more valuable, depending on the condition.
    • Coins with errors are a rarity, so even common coins with planchet, die, or strike errors can be valuable.
  2. Even if a coin isn’t especially rare, there may be something special about it that appeals to collectors. Buffalo nickels are a good example—they’re relatively easy to find, but because they’re unique, they’re a favorite among beginner coin collectors. [28]
  3. When collectors examine coins, they check for damage like scratches, dulling, or dings—all of which can damage the value of the coin. On the other hand, an uncirculated coin that’s been preserved in Mint condition can bring in a price much higher than the average for that particular coin. [29]
    • One thing collectors pay extra attention to is the luster, or how shiny the coin is.
    • Jefferson nickels have an extra designation called “Full Steps.” As the nickels wear, one of the first things to degrade is the appearance of the steps leading up to Monticello. A coin where all of the steps are visible (Full Steps, or FS) will be more valuable than one where the steps blur together.
  4. Most coins are graded using the Sheldon Grading Scale based on their condition. The higher the grade, the more valuable a coin will be. The grades are: [30]
    • Poor-1 (P1)
    • Fair-2 (F2)
    • About Good-3 (AG3)
    • Good-4; Good-6 (G4; G6)
    • Very Good-8; Very Good 10 (V8; V10)
    • Fine-12; Fine 15 (F12; F15)
    • Very Fine-20; Very Fine-25; Very Fine-30; Very Fine-35 (VF20; VF25; VF30; VF35)
    • Extremely Fine-40; Extremely Fine-45 (EF40; EF45)
    • Almost Uncirculated-50; Almost Uncirculated-53; Almost Uncirculated-55; Almost Uncirculated-58 (AU50; AU53; AU55; AU58)
    • Mint State 60–70 (MS60–70)
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Section 5 of 7:

Errors to Look For on Nickels

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  1. The planchet is the blank piece of metal that the coin is stamped on. If the planchet is damaged or it’s too large or too small, it creates an error in the finished coin that can make it more collectible. [31]
    • Sometimes coins are stamped onto the wrong planchet—if you find a coin that looks like a penny but it’s stamped with a nickel design, that’s a planchet error.
    • If the metals in the planchet aren’t mixed correctly, it can cause the surface of the coin to peel away or look like wood grain.
  2. The die is the stamp that’s used to impress the coin’s design into the planchet. There can be a number of issues with the die that lead to deformations on the coin, including: [32]
    • A cracked die can create a lightning-bolt shape on the coin
    • A chip or break in the outer edge of the die can lead to a blob on the coin known as a “cud.”
    • Dirt or oils in the die can prevent the image from being fully stamped, leaving a blank look on the coin.
  3. If the planchet isn’t centered correctly, if it gets stuck and is hit by the die more than once, or if something gets between the planchet and the die, these are known as striking errors. [33]
    • Because overdates aren’t a planchet error or die error, they’re usually considered strike errors.
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Section 6 of 7:

How to Examine Rare Coins

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  1. The oils from your fingers can damage a coin, so to protect it, hold it carefully just around the rim. If you’re handling really rare coins, you might even wear soft white gloves or hold the coin with tweezers. [34]
  2. Most collectors find that incandescent light (around 70 watts) is the best for carefully inspecting coins. As you look at the coin, check for tiny parallel scratches called hairlines that can affect the value of the coin. Also, look at how shiny the coin is (called its luster). [35]
    • If someone has used a harsh chemical to clean a coin, it will have a dull luster, impacting its value.
  3. A loupe is a special magnifying glass that you can use to see fine details on the surface of a coin. You can hold the loupe to your eye, but if you plan to do a lot of coin work, it might be worth investing in a head-mounted loupe to free up your hands. [36]
    • Many coin collectors—or numismatists—use a loupe between 7x and 14x magnification.
  4. To learn more about the coins you’re collecting, purchase a grading standards book that describes exactly what to look for in an individual coin. That way, you’ll know whether a coin is worth buying, what your coin is worth if you already have one, and whether it’s worth sending a special coin off to be professionally graded. [37]
  5. When coins scrape across each other, it leaves tiny scratches on the surface. If you have a rare coin, tossing it into a container with the rest of your change could bring down the value, so it’s worth putting it in a coin book or a sleeve if you think you’ve found something valuable.
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Section 7 of 7:

FAQs

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  1. The rarest nickel is a 1913 Liberty V nickel. Only 5 were ever produced, and only 3 remain in private collections. One of these coins was recently sold for over $3 million at an auction.
  2. The best way to learn about rare nickels is to buy a coin grading book. Also, join coin-collecting groups in your community or online.
  3. P, D, and S are all mintmarks that designate where the coin was produced. P stands for Philadelphia, D stands for Denver, and S stands for San Francisco. [38]
    • In 2019, “W” started appearing on circulating coins, which stands for West Point.
  4. Nickels are made of 25% nickel and 75% copper. They weigh 5g and are 1.95 mm thick. [39]
    • From 1942 to 1945, the Mint made nickels out of 56% copper, 35% silver, and 9% manganese. This was done to preserve nickel for the war effort. [40]
  5. Over a billion nickels were minted in 1964, but because most were circulated, surprisingly few are available today in Full Step condition. 1964 nickels are only worth about $0.10 in most conditions, but that can go up to over $4,000 if you find a top-tier Mint coin with Full Steps (MS66FS). [41]
  6. There are a few nickels that could be worth $10,000 or more, depending on the condition, including the 1913 Liberty V, 1926-S Buffalo, 1880 Shield, 1913-D 3 (or 3-1/2)-Legged Buffalo, and 1943/2 P Jefferson.
  7. 1943 nickels are fairly rare, but they are out there for collectors to find. These nickels are made of silver, and some feature an overdate error, so they can be fairly valuable.
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      References

      1. ↑ https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/1879-5c/3808
      2. ↑ https://www.ngccoin.com/coin-explorer/united-states/nickels/shield-five-cents-1866-1883/13808/1879-5c-ms/
      3. ↑ https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/1880-5c/3810
      4. ↑ https://www.usmoneyreserve.com/news/executive-insights/mint-state-silver-vs-proof-coins/
      5. ↑ https://www.money.org/money-museum/virtual-exhibits-1913nickel/
      6. ↑ https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/1913-5c-liberty/3912
      7. ↑ https://nnp.wustl.edu/encyclopedia/seriesdetail/22
      8. ↑ https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/1913-5c-type-1-3-2-legs-fs-901/38428
      9. ↑ https://www.pcgs.com/news/the-1916-doubled-die-buffalo-nickel
      1. ↑ https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/1918-7-d-5c/3939
      2. ↑ https://www.ngccoin.com/coin-explorer/united-states/nickels/buffalo-five-cents-1913-1938/816057/1918-7-d-5c-ms/
      3. ↑ https://www.ngccoin.com/coin-explorer/united-states/nickels/buffalo-five-cents-1913-1938/13959/
      4. ↑ https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/1926-s-5c/3959
      5. ↑ https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/1939-5c-doubled-monticello/4004
      6. ↑ https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/1939-5c-doubled-monticello-fs/84004
      7. ↑ https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/1942-p-5c-silver/4016
      8. ↑ https://www.usacoinbook.com/coins/994/nickels/jefferson/1942-P/
      9. ↑ https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/1943-2-p-5c-fs/84019
      10. ↑ https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/1950-d-5c/4042
      11. ↑ https://www.ngccoin.com/coin-explorer/united-states/nickels/jefferson-five-cents-1938-date/14042/1950-d-5c-ms/
      12. ↑ https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/1945-p-5c-doubled-die-reverse/4173
      13. ↑ https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/category/shield-nickel-1866-1883/81
      14. ↑ https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/category/nickels/liberty-nickel-1883-1913/82
      15. ↑ https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/category/nickels/buffalo-nickel-1913-1938/83
      16. ↑ https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/category/nickels/jefferson-nickel-1938-date/84
      17. ↑ https://coinappraiser.com/coin-category/nickels/
      18. ↑ https://www.ngccoin.com/coin-explorer/united-states/nickels/buffalo-five-cents-1913-1938/13947/1921-5c-ms/
      19. ↑ https://blog.money.org/coin-collecting/5-factors-influence-coin-values
      20. ↑ https://blog.money.org/coin-collecting/5-factors-influence-coin-values
      21. ↑ https://www.money.org/basics-coin-collectors-should-know/
      22. ↑ https://www.money.org/pocket-treasures/
      23. ↑ https://www.money.org/pocket-treasures/
      24. ↑ https://www.money.org/pocket-treasures/
      25. ↑ https://www.money.org/basics-coin-collectors-should-know/
      26. ↑ https://www.money.org/basics-coin-collectors-should-know/
      27. ↑ https://www.money.org/pocket-treasures/
      28. ↑ https://www.money.org/basics-coin-collectors-should-know/
      29. ↑ https://www.usmint.gov/learn/collecting-basics/mint-marks
      30. ↑ https://www.usmint.gov/learn/coins-and-medals/circulating-coins/nickel
      31. ↑ https://www.nationalww2museum.org/war/articles/united-states-money-in-world-war-ii
      32. ↑ https://www.ngccoin.com/coin-explorer/united-states/nickels/jefferson-five-cents-1938-date/14076/1964-d-5c-ms/

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